toadfrog

I always used Bait Plastics medium. Didn't care much for floating additives so I just got the floating plastic. I've used everything from mica powders to dyes . Didn't matter that much to me but I made sure it didn't bleed . Check that bleeding potential before you buy colorant. Real disappointment when you have a bag of baits come out like a cheap flannel shirt.

I've tried all kinds of stuff. But avoid an action that will infuse a lot of air into the plastic . If the air is badly infused the plastic will have micro bubbles in the lure and it won't stand reheating as well .

Sometime ago I bought some junk at an auction . It had a rock tumbler base but nothing else . The base ran fine . So I transferred my plastic to a gallon glass jar . Then placed it on the tumbler . Goofed off a while, came back in about 30 minutes (probably longer than I needed) and it was mixed nicely .

With any spinner bait that has a collar there will be the occasional miss pour around the ball. The C is no exception. Hard lead makes for more misfires . I prefer to use a bullet ladle with the spout on the side. I stick the spout flush inside the gate and turn the mold and ladle vertical together. If you are using a bottom pour pot sink the spout in the gate. As far as the way they run in the water , it's best if you tune the wire by looking down the back and giving the wire slight twists until the arm is in alignment with your hook point. The rest will depend on what blade or blades you put on it. I prefer deep cup Colorado blades with a ball bearing swivel . But experimentation is the spice of life .

Generally use Eagle claw hooks for myself . No. 4 0n plastics and 6 on ties . Generally gold or little nasty black platinum. Victory hooks will work for crappie and such too. No need to invest in expensive hooks for delicate fish.

Thanks aulrich . It's made from miscellaneous parts even a cog from an old clock stuck in the bottom above the hook. My version of a clicker . Caught a couple fisherman with one of those.

The thing about inline spinners is you have a world of items to use for bodies . That is if your not anal retentive about exact weights, As you can see in the picture this lure is made from plastic bead to worm weight and shrink tube. Think outside the box . Free your mind up to a world of possibilities. In so doing you might just save yourself some money.

Getting action from that type of material is tough s you know. Either put something like a piece of surgical tube under it to push it out or cut it extra long and tie it with the long part towards the top . That way when you hold it by the eye it falls back and makes it's own natural flare.

I was thinking if someone tries to stack a Colorado style blade it might be effective only if it was a deep cup blade. The operative word is might. I've made inlines for a long time but I never had a need to use one with double blades .

OTSISMI is correct . There is a double clevis designed for running 2 blades. I've been out of the business so long I can't remember who makes it. But it would be Hagen's or Lakeland I think.

Have you got a pic of one made up . When you cast it do you just start reeling when it hits the water? Because if you do a lot of in lines don't get going by doing that . As it sinks pop the rod tip . This causes the blade to move farther from the shaft. Then real quickly . You should feel resistance as the blade spins. After that you can slow your retrieve to the desired speed and the blade should continue to spin.

I use folded clevises only on inline spinners . If you put a bead above the clevis it can be plastic . Below the clevis I use a metal bead to act as a bearing . The metal won't wear and hang like a plastic one can . Part of your lure body spin can come from restriction on the blade being able to turn.

I have no words for such a great loss.

Make sure you secure that wire before you try to smooth the tag end. I let one get away from me and it went into my hand. Stayed sore for a month.

They are as good as any .

Awh shucks I ain't no master at nothing. Thanks for the vote of confidence. I don't think I ever charged 10 bucks for a jig. But that thing has them dang Gamy hooks in it I bet . E.C. and Mustad have served me well all these years . Never lost a fish from breaking or bending . But then my fish usually just have a head and a tail hanging from my hand when I get the hook out.

It's a Do-It poison tail. The marabou is tied on first then the buck tail is cinched . After that the flash (yellow pearl) or synthetic is added . Finished tying the throat and clear coat the threads. Epoxy in the weed guard, Add grub of choice. Looks like Brown top hair , bottom hair olive. Can't tell on the marabou but if I was going to put it in there It would be black to complement the other colors.

The only way I could ever track the success of a pattern I built was through sales when I was in business. I have a list someplace of those lures. But if you make complicated patterns make notes like a bill of material and a picture. Then when you get old as me it will be handy .

I second what Jig Man said. A lot of people seem to want to buy those expensive hooks . Gamy ect. I absolutely won't . Chances of missing a fish or breaking a regular hook like an Eagle Claw isn't worth the money to me . Besides E.C. and Mustad have served me well for many years.

Try this, take the tips out of your injector. Place the ends on a flat surface and push down until you gently make contact. Then loosen the set screws that control the plunger depth. push down hold pressure while you tighten the screws back. Put tips back in. This will help to insure the injector is putting out equal amounts on both sides. Providing your hand pressure is steady and equal.

Youtube has videos on home electro plating. There are some paints that have Nano technology I hear are the best , As far as I know they are not readily available in The U.S. I tried to order some out of country but was told it could not be shipped here.

I hang them while on the runner. Then leave them about 3 days. Bag with scent . I put the scent in a spray bottle so I can spray the inside of the bag . Makes it easier to get the plastic to go in. I also made some skids I lay the plastics on to slide them in a uniform position into the bag. I put worm oil on those to make them slippery. Just my way and personal preference.

It will do that if you have boogers in your plastic(unmelted plastic chunks)

That depends on a couple things. Do you have a collar or no collar. Collars make it harder to evenly spread the fibers. That can lead to difficulty. No collar is going to need a grip laid down the shank to help hold fibers. That is where you wrap thread down and back to the head. Leaving a knurled look before adding fiber. As far as quantity sort of a rule I use is cut a piece about as big as a pencil is around . Puck the short crap out . Lay it up and add to or take away to achieve the flare or look I want.