Cami

Here there are the "original" ones https://baitmold.com/page/1/?s=swing+impact&post_type=product Bye. Cami

Tomy's Bait, isn'it? When I saw them first time, I asked to myself: "... but, are they real?" Bye Cami

In past I had similar troubles trying to copy, with a 2 parts room temperature silicone, some chinese soft baits, instead I did not find any kind of troubles copying right "good" plastisol softbaits, so I think that such kind of marks depend by the raw material of soft baits that you will like to copy (especially the surface painted ones). Bye Cami

Again, coming back to this thread, I would like to know what you really think about the review of stone mold inside this video Bye. Cami

Crayons are also a good alternative. I used them in past with good results. Bye. Cami

Jesus, Guy. You've got a really good sense of color. About the sicky trouble you have with the top coat, we can help you if tell us which kind of top coat it is. Bye. Cami

Dear Toadfrog, thank you for sharing and my compliments for the patience to apply the decal. I suppose that in this case the top coat is a dipping in hot clear, isn' It?

Just FYI but there is another "guy" that creates realistic soft Minnows, his name is Janus and he comes from Austria https://www.softjerks.at/cms/ In this case I think to know where he catches his paint: by a little German producer and this solvent varnish Is based with heated plastisol. @ Toadfrog I'm real curios to see a homemade soft bait with a decal: would you like to share a pict., please? Bye Cami

By volume. In past has been suggested to substitute MEK with THF, but I prefer MEK. As retarder has been suggested to use Ciclohexanone (I'm not sure how it is written), but I have never found it. @ Toadfrog: do you transfer decals over plastisol baits? Bye Cami

This simple recipe 50 PVC glue/50 solvent dries really quickly, so you have to prepare this mixture just before to brush it. The main idea is to create a varnish solvent based, like that of SpikeIt, so you can apply it also with an airbrush pen and you do not need anymore any kind of top coat. In some posts here on TU there are some suggestions about more efficient recipes, but I couldn't find the right one till now. Bye Cami

Dear Fern, thank you for sharing web links. MEK = metil ethil chetone, it's a solvent. The original French recipe requires 50% PVC glue (ex. Tangit) + 50% Solvent (ex. MEK). You must be really quick to apply with a brush a thin layer as top coat and yes it's thinner than a dipping in clear, so texture will remain. If you use other chemical ingredients you can create a less volatile varnish, colored with plastisol dyes or powder pigments ... I haven't ever found this varnish recipe, but I think that the Polish Maker found it; it's same kind of solvent varnish sold by SpikeIt. Unfortna

Looking at these wonderful baits the first question is: are they real or soft plastic? Would you like to post the web site of this real good Polish Maker, please? I really like to paint with powder pigments: it's easy and funny. Few rules: - clean surface with a solvent as MEK - as said apply powder with a sponge - fix the pigments with an heat source as a torch - apply a top coat as clear dipping, but I prefer a mix of PVC glue and MEK I agree with Toadfrog: the belly of these baits is probably obtained with an insert, I personally use a mylar net.

I found that Loctite Gel to adhere and a mix of 50% PVC Glue + 50% MEK brushed over the eyes' area is good and quick method to encase 3D eyes, I'm using this French system and it works. Bye Cami