Cami

Here you are the Baitmold version https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/twister-tails/mold-t118-48-inch-120-mm/ There is also the 4.5" Bye.

Dear OIR, if I will try with cyanoacrylate glue to fix the fiberglass tail to pin softbait, then I will take close to me a fire extinguisher . Please, when you say "iCraft Deco Foil on plastic and a Laminator", do you mean that you transfered this foil on hard plastic blanks, as crankbait for instance, or did you apply Hot Stamping Foil to the surface of soft baits, using a hot silicone sheet for instance? I usually transfer, over hard plastic blanks, Nail Art Foils spreading and warming by hair dryer the vynil glue over the foils themselves. I tried also the hot system showed in the video, but perhaps vynil glue works better. I have already enclosed same Nail Art Foils just under the skin of softbaits, placing them inside the internal side of mold. Unforunately it is not possible to remove the transparent plastic support, but to create details as lateral fins or stripes, they are good inserts. Bye. Cami

Intersting: so, if I use some drops of cyanoacrilate glue, then it reacts with fiberglass sheet and bonds itself to soft plastic, without using the torch and ruining the edge of tail ... I will give it a try. Thank you. Bye Cami

As usual words are better than 1000 words. I simply added to my Pin Tail Soft Bait a little tail shaped from a fiberglass foil. After the soft bait tail is passed through the hole of fiberglass tail, I melt the soft edge with a Chef Torch to fix the fiberglass tail in position. It is not exactly an idea of mine, but it comes from Imakatsu that shows here his prototype: Soft bait swimming is exactly as showed ... it wags its tail Ciao. Cami

http://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/crayfish-and-nymphs/mold-c630-4-25-inch-106-mm/ I hope that it can help. Their stone molds are very detailed, easy to use and ... cheap. Bye. Cami

... me, too. Anyway, cyanoacrylate glue works with epoxy stone resin ... just tried. Bye. Cami

It depends by permanent marker: if you use a oil based marker, then it will work to bleed inside soft plastic, instead if you will use an alcohol based marker, as a Copic one, then it will rest on the surface. Moreover Copic markers and similars can be air brushed, for instance I use the Spritzer pump with success. Bye Cami

The raw material of stone mold should be epoxy resin added with marble powder and yes, the oversize of raw mold is machined by a CNC machine to obtain the thinest details. In Germany, some guys are realizing molds in corian with CNC machine and 3D printers, too. On the base of my personal experience the epoxy resin sometimes can dissolve a soft bait while you are trying to clone it. I really prefer the RTV2 silicone and with right insert and wall thickness you can obtain a stiff injectable 2 halves mold. Bye Cami

Even if I agree with Anglinarcher, that is it should be better to sew a pc. of braid inside the long and thin worm, if you finally wish to include a wire insert, then you could try with a pc. of Mylar Tinsel. I do not know its tensile strength, but of course the #10 (1,6 mm) is recommended. Due the fact you can find several colors, at least with transparent worms you will give them an inner flashing dorsal. Bye Cami

Great ... as usual. Does it float? Bye Cami

Are you interested to mylar glitter only, or to mylar net, too? For instance this is a pinkish mylar pipe and ... it is really simple to realize glitter from a mylar pipe with a good pair of scissors. Anyway you can find a lot of holographic mylar colors in pipe or sheet looking @ Fly Tying materials. Bye. Cami