Cami
-
Posts
242 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
TU Classifieds
Glossary
Website Links
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Cami
-
-
Hi Mark, I was thinking to do the same with open silicone molds or 2 halves silicone molds. With silicone I don't think that it's necessary a carrirer, it should be sufficient to sponge the powder upon its surface. Instead with alluminium molds It could be useful to appl, with a brush, paper glue from a stick. In past I used paper stick glue to fix inside mold's inner sides the mylar net.
Bye Cami
-
1
-
-
https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v678-5-12-inch-130-mm/
https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v306-8-inch-200-mm/
https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/soft-plastic-bait/handing-pour-mold-v257-7-inch-175-mm/
... but perhaps it isn't the right moment.
Bye Cami
-
... I agree, thank you sir.
Regards.
Cami
-
Dear sirs, about my entry FMM, you changed the contest box from the hand made hard bait to the fly one, but it is not a fly lure, it weighs more than 1 oz., it is used with bait casting rod, it is a "spinning" lure for Pike. Now it is a surface bait, but it is usual to add a jika weight to work it under surface, moreover there is a trailer in plastisol ... are you sure about this changing?
Cami
-
Mica powder from an artcraft store: 2 nails per 4 oz.
Bye.
Cami
-
Dear Fern, well we are basically speaking about solvent based varnish and their recipes are probably really similar.
In States you can find Spike It products, in Europe we have (now) the Finnish CAB Coat varnishes or those ones by the Belgian Brightbaits ... and all of them are not really cheap, but they don't need a top coating.
Solvents like MEK, THF or Acetone, in my opinion, snap off the poured plastisol surface and permit to the pigment to be mixed with PVC, instead Cyclohexanone should be a retarder of this kind of varnish, good for airbrushing tecnique.
My hobbyst process is really simple: cleaning of soft bait surface with a solvent like MEK, "painting" of bait surface with powdered pigments (pearls, metallic, shifting) using a sponge, heating the surface with a torch, top coating with the cold mix 50 PVC glue/50 solvent. The solvent is a temporarily thinner of PVC glue.
If there is someone that can suggest any kind of adjustment/improvement, I will really appreciate it.
I lastly bought some thin Ukrainian cheap varnishes, they work great with a brush and it's possible to thin them with acetone ... also in this solvent base varnish a top coat isn't needed.
Bye Cami
-
2
-
-
Look for Borflex 13
Bye.
Cami
-
7 hours ago, Fern said:
has anyone mixed anything into plastisol that made for an interesting effect?
Hyper shift powder pigments, those base coloured, not the white ones (good over the black base).
Bye
Cami
-
10 hours ago, Frank said:
Look for pvc based products. They can be found at places that sell pvc pipes. The clear glue(solvent) is just like what you will need. You will have to find a solvent to thin it with but can be found. And for colors find powder pigments. Should not be to hard.
A recipe, similar to the French one, is 50% PVC glue + 50%Methyl Ethyl Chetone (MEK) + powder pigment. For the PVC glue I use Tangit. It dries very quickly, so I'm able to use it only with a brush. To thin it and have more time for airbrushing, you should add butanone, but I have never tried.
Bye
Cami
-
2
-
-
-
French Recipe for Soft Baits Cold Coat: 50% PVC Glue + 50% MEK (Methyl Ethil Ketone).
You can only brush it, you cannot airbrush ir.
You can also add powder or liquid pigments or glitters.
It works also as a bonding system to repair soft baits.
Bye
Cami
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, Apdriver said:
I have used some colorshift Pearl powder from here https://didspade.com/
to color plastisol for swimbaits and doing a laminate bait. Works really well and gives some look that’s hard to get with liquid colorants. I like adding it as opposed to brushing it on. Here’s a couple.
... me too, but till now I found only shifting powder pigments that cannot be added to hot plastisol, or better you can, but the result is really poor, even if you mix them with black.
I'm waiting to receive from China some colored shifting powder pigments, then I'll show you the results of coloring soft bais in mass.
Bye
Cami
-
I'm an hobbyist and lastly I played around with several mica and shifting powder pigments. I put Mica powder pigments, taken in artistic shops, directly inside hot plastisol, obtaining massive baits, for instance with white mica I reach a great marble white, a good base for following "painting". Instead with shifting powder pigments, coming from nail art, I brush them with a sponge over the bait surface. The best result is obtained with a black base (obtained for instance with black powder pigment ...be careful about scorching plastisol), after that I fix the pigments with a torch and encapsulate them with a hot or cold coat.
Well, every time you change the base color, you reach a different shifting result.
Till now I used only "white" shifting powder pigments, not those ones colored, used in the automotive field, and to mix them in hot plastisol has been an unsuceful trial. I'm waiting Chinese colored shifting powder pigments and I'll try again to use in mass ... finger cross.
Lastly I received some basic solvent lacquer colors for the soft bait surface, it's possible to use them only with a brush, and I tried to mix yellow with gold powder pigment, here the result:
Bye Cami
-
1
-
-
On 3/15/2021 at 3:19 PM, SlowFISH said:
A very warm or even hot injector is your friend.... when an injector is cold - and even 80 degrees is cold - it will cool the plastic really fast and lock it up
Dear J., this sentence should be written in the stone: yesterday, for the first time, I shoot in my pre heated molds, no more only oiled, with the injector pre heated by a thermo gun and ... its movement changed at all, smooth, sliding, a real pleasure to use it. Thank you.
Cami
-
1
-
-
The round head of tube bait is obtained by the concave shaped cork that close one end of PVC pipe. You have to chose a cork with an external diameter that fit without any clearance the inner diameter of pipe. You can shape the concave with a round grindstone. Finally let seall the cork with the working tape.
The thickness will be not the same in all length, but thicker in portion close to the head and thinner where you will cut the stripes of the tail.
The results are really performing tube baits ... that catch Pikes.
Bye Cami
-
3
-
-
Dear Eastman03, as said unfortunally there are anymore the 2 vids and I'm no the guy who showed this simple technique (I usually make 4" tube dipping rods)
The first hyphotesis is the right one:
1) tap the PVC pipe with the concave cork
2) lube the inner side of PVC pipe
3) pour hot plastisol for around the half of PVC pipe length
4) start to rotate the PVC pipe with an angle more than 45° ... more horizontal the pipe is, more long the tube will be - I apologise but I really don't remember if "Il Gatto" closed also the other side of pipe. I think not
5) cool the PVC pipe under a current fresh water tap
6) with the thin rod (a stiff pc o wire) detach the tube from the PVC pipe - the rod must be used between the external skin of tube and the internal wall of pipe
... simple, but for sure a little bit dangerous: when you put the PVC pipe under the fresh water, using thermal gloves of course, you must be really careful that no one drop of water can enter inside the pipe.
Bye Cami
-
1
-
-
Hi, I would like to suggest this old thread
The original link to the Italian Site is
http://www.bassmaster.it/a_tube.htm
Unfortunally it isn't more possible to see the 2 videos on youtube.
Anyway, the trick to obtain such big tubes is to fill hot plastisol inside the rigid PVC pipe and rotate it sliding the plastisol for all its length. After some rotations you have to cool the PVC pipe with current fresh water ... simple.
Important: you must wear heat gloves, glasses, long suites
Please, let me know your experience with this technique and ask if you need.
Bye Cami
-
1
-
-
Here there are the "original" ones https://baitmold.com/page/1/?s=swing+impact&post_type=product
Bye.
Cami
-
Tomy's Bait, isn'it?
When I saw them first time, I asked to myself: "... but, are they real?"
Bye
Cami
-
1
-
-
In past I had similar troubles trying to copy, with a 2 parts room temperature silicone, some chinese soft baits, instead I did not find any kind of troubles copying right "good" plastisol softbaits, so I think that such kind of marks depend by the raw material of soft baits that you will like to copy (especially the surface painted ones).
Bye Cami
-
1
-
-
Again, coming back to this thread, I would like to know what you really think about the review of stone mold inside this video
Bye.
Cami
-
Crayons are also a good alternative. I used them in past with good results.
Bye.
Cami
-
1
-
-
Jesus, Guy. You've got a really good sense of color.
About the sicky trouble you have with the top coat, we can help you if tell us which kind of top coat it is.
Bye.
Cami
-
Dear Toadfrog, thank you for sharing and my compliments for the patience to apply the decal. I suppose that in this case the top coat is a dipping in hot clear, isn' It?
Mesh for reinforcement
in Soft Plastics
Posted
Plastic packing strap and It resists to molded plastisol.
Bye Cami