Cami

For those that wish to inject it by themselves, here you are 2 molds: http://www.voblery.net/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=savage&product_id=1582 http://www.voblery.net/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=savage&product_id=1832 Bye Cami

It seems to be a Savage Gear Soft 4Play - Juvenile Rainbow Trout, isn't it? Bye Cami

Perhaps is not possible to obtain classical "horizontal" laminates, but it is possible to obtain "vertical" ones (ex. tails with different colors) and vertical swirlings. Bye Cami

Let try to lightly oil cavities, continue to hold pressure and over fill the sprue. Bye Cami

http://www.voblery.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=137_204&product_id=1610 It Is a mold for Porolon (foam), not for Plastisol. Bye Cami

I usually put pigments in powder directly in the plastisol before heating it; to be repetitive in your recipes you should weigh powder and compare it to the volume of used plastisol (ex. 1 g to 100 ml). Powder pigments can be mixed between themselves and with normal liquid PVC colorants, too. Here you are a French tutorial http://breizhbaits.com/WordPress3/tutoriel-fabriquer-ses-leurres-fluorescents-avec-les-pigments-true-color-pigment-fluo/ Powder pigments, as mass colorant, are really funny, but you can use them also as paint: 50% PVC glue (ex. for PVC pipes) + 50% MEK + powder pigment and you have to apply speedily it over the skin of soft bait. Bye Cami

Hi Guys, would you call the attached color as merthiolate? FYI Baitmold calls it Crystal Magenta. Bye. Cami

Yes, ask to my German friends https://www.bleigussformen-shop.de/Formen-fuer-Federjig Unfortunately I can't say anything about shipping costs to USA. Bye. Cami

Dear Guys, as I have already written in other post about this topic, I'm using the Dexas collapsible silicone measuring cup from several years with satisfaction even if its plastic handle is certified only for 120 °C (250 °F). I'm not a frequent pourer and I have already repaired that plastic handle, so I will continue to use it till I will see it really stiff. Now it is not more possible to find such silicone measuring cup on the market, but there is something better: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chefn-SleekStor-Collapsible-Measuring-Cherry/dp/B000RN71XY Its nylon handle resists till 200°C (340°F) and there are other similar solutions, you have only to search for them. Bye Cami

https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/worms/mold-w197-7-inch-175-mm/ I got the 5" and it works great. If you want/can spend there is also the 6 cavities alluminium version. https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/worms/aluminum-mold-w197-6-cavity-7-inch-175-mm-separate/ Bye. Cami

Just to make some stripes you could use Copic markers. Bye. Cami

Yes, of course. For instance in Italy you can ask to raiteri@libero.it, in France there are https://breizhbaits.com/fr/ and https://www.pawispeche.com/index.cfm, in Germany you have https://www.bleigussformen-shop.de/Gummifische-giessen, in UK there is https://softplastics.co.uk/products_new.php, from Belgium https://www.brightbaits.com/index.php?route=common/home (really famous for his colorants and airbrushing colors) and finally https://www.lureparts.nl/nl/ in Nederlands, perhaps the first one in Europe who treated soft plastic ... and there are others more. Bye. Cami

Hi Landry, great 9" paddle tails are yours. How did you paint and coated them, please? Bye Cami

Christmas experiments with Chinese powder pigments. It is a technique that the French Softbait Makers showed several years ago, but there are also video of Larry Dalhberg about it. I simply injected the Pro Shad Firetails mold with scrapped plastisol of old pourings, adding some black drops and I obtained the base for painting experiments with metallic pigments. I did the drawing up with nail art spongy brushes (but also soft brushes do the work). After that I fixed the powder with a chef torch, but … if you scratch it jumps away. The solution to coat my “cubist painting” 18 cm length has been ever supplied to me by Frenchs (Breizhbaits), with the mix 50% glue for PVC pipes + 50% MEK. Coating must be quickly drawn down with a soft brush, because MEK tends to quickly evaporate. I encapsulated also 3D eyes. Info about colors: metallic pigments stand out really well over a black surface... those fluo are a disaster (let see the tail. Merry Christmas. Cami

Here you are the Baitmold version https://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/twister-tails/mold-t118-48-inch-120-mm/ There is also the 4.5" Bye.

Dear OIR, if I will try with cyanoacrylate glue to fix the fiberglass tail to pin softbait, then I will take close to me a fire extinguisher . Please, when you say "iCraft Deco Foil on plastic and a Laminator", do you mean that you transfered this foil on hard plastic blanks, as crankbait for instance, or did you apply Hot Stamping Foil to the surface of soft baits, using a hot silicone sheet for instance? I usually transfer, over hard plastic blanks, Nail Art Foils spreading and warming by hair dryer the vynil glue over the foils themselves. I tried also the hot system showed in the video, but perhaps vynil glue works better. I have already enclosed same Nail Art Foils just under the skin of softbaits, placing them inside the internal side of mold. Unforunately it is not possible to remove the transparent plastic support, but to create details as lateral fins or stripes, they are good inserts. Bye. Cami

Intersting: so, if I use some drops of cyanoacrilate glue, then it reacts with fiberglass sheet and bonds itself to soft plastic, without using the torch and ruining the edge of tail ... I will give it a try. Thank you. Bye Cami

As usual words are better than 1000 words. I simply added to my Pin Tail Soft Bait a little tail shaped from a fiberglass foil. After the soft bait tail is passed through the hole of fiberglass tail, I melt the soft edge with a Chef Torch to fix the fiberglass tail in position. It is not exactly an idea of mine, but it comes from Imakatsu that shows here his prototype: Soft bait swimming is exactly as showed ... it wags its tail Ciao. Cami

http://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/crayfish-and-nymphs/mold-c630-4-25-inch-106-mm/ I hope that it can help. Their stone molds are very detailed, easy to use and ... cheap. Bye. Cami

... me, too. Anyway, cyanoacrylate glue works with epoxy stone resin ... just tried. Bye. Cami

It depends by permanent marker: if you use a oil based marker, then it will work to bleed inside soft plastic, instead if you will use an alcohol based marker, as a Copic one, then it will rest on the surface. Moreover Copic markers and similars can be air brushed, for instance I use the Spritzer pump with success. Bye Cami

The raw material of stone mold should be epoxy resin added with marble powder and yes, the oversize of raw mold is machined by a CNC machine to obtain the thinest details. In Germany, some guys are realizing molds in corian with CNC machine and 3D printers, too. On the base of my personal experience the epoxy resin sometimes can dissolve a soft bait while you are trying to clone it. I really prefer the RTV2 silicone and with right insert and wall thickness you can obtain a stiff injectable 2 halves mold. Bye Cami