Cami

Even if I agree with Anglinarcher, that is it should be better to sew a pc. of braid inside the long and thin worm, if you finally wish to include a wire insert, then you could try with a pc. of Mylar Tinsel. I do not know its tensile strength, but of course the #10 (1,6 mm) is recommended. Due the fact you can find several colors, at least with transparent worms you will give them an inner flashing dorsal. Bye Cami

Great ... as usual. Does it float? Bye Cami

Are you interested to mylar glitter only, or to mylar net, too? For instance this is a pinkish mylar pipe and ... it is really simple to realize glitter from a mylar pipe with a good pair of scissors. Anyway you can find a lot of holographic mylar colors in pipe or sheet looking @ Fly Tying materials. Bye. Cami

Pure pigments colours can be used in plastisol. For instance with Mica you can obtain a white pearlescent texture. In Artcraft Stores you can find iridescent pigment colours, too. They have two properties: they reflect one colour and refract another one. For instance one of most famous is green/violet. Bye. Cami

If you leave such kind of soft bait at room temperature, it will begin stiff as a chewing gum, so hook can be placed and a lot of casts can be made. To maintain the rest of bait flexible the trick is to conserve it wrapped in a plastic film. Anyway this kind of compound is really degradable and in a month you can see traces of mold ... honestly I prefer PVC. I personally had another experience with another bioplastic: corn starch. Our Supplier produced Party Plates with powder corn starch, obtaining a colored (in mass), biodegradable, Food Contact Material bioplastic, close to PS as feeling contact, but ... it was hard, nor soft, nor flexible. Bye. Cami

Hi DIYEng., perhaps this link could be useful: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/22130-bass-mousse Bye Cami

http://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/crayfish-and-nymphs/c27-4-inch-100-mm/ Perhaps this can help. Bye Cami

It's true the roughness of stone resin doesn't help to remove the bait from mold. With mold like this one http://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/worms/mold-w122-24-inch-61-mm/ , where body is done by lamellae, whose thickness is around 0,5 mm, I have to use PAM spray and a needle to remove it. I'm wondering how can you brush a paint coating without to clog these thin appendages? Is such kind of paint so thin to leave a micron coating? and is its viscosity so low, to well adhere to walls of mold? I'm really interested to this application. Thank you in advance for your kind explications. Bye. Cami

I'm not American, but I saw that for instance there is Sunnyside Corp. as brand name. If you soak the tip of your grub in a glass with MEK for few seconds, it should be cleaned. Not too much time, because MEK can dissolve it. As glue I would suggest a glue for PVC pipes as Tangit. Bye. Cami

Dear Jack, you could try with MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), it dries poured plastisol. It's a little bit "toxic" ... pay attention. Bye. Cami

Sometimes old threads must be reminded. Perhaps this old thread could be useful http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/20756-tubes-thanks-guys-for-your-suggestions/ If correlated links inside posts don't work anymore, then try with this one http://www.bassmaster.it/a_tube.htm There are two interesting videos, their main concepts are explicated in TU thread. Bye Cami

What do you Guys think about micro glass balloons as floating additive? I bought a can of them a lot of time ago, when I poured cranks in epoxy resin, but I have never tried them in plastisol. If I am not wrong, in past I read something here in TU about their use, but I really don't know the correct amount. I'm just just planning, as Bowldsie, to pour some floating Frogs for next Spring and any help could be really appreciated. PS: I already know that micro glass balloons are terrible for our respiratory system, so mask is a must. Bye Cami

I compared the Baitmold's Swing Impact Fat 3,8" to the Keitech's original one and the shape is really the same. The difference is that there is not any insert to create slots, but believe me two opposite slots are a real ass pain in term of resistant bait. The other difference is that Keitech's lures have been made with a double density plastisol. Ah ... $14,40 in machined stone resin Bye Cami

Eyeshadow. You can use as a powder paint and fix it with a torch lighter or put directly it inside melted plastisol. Bye. Cami

Perhaps this old thread could be useful http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/20756-tubes-thanks-guys-for-your-suggestions/ If correlated links inside posts don't work anymore, then try with this one http://www.bassmaster.it/a_tube.htm There are two interesting videos, their main concepts are explicated in TU thread. Bye Cami

I bought 4 stone molds from Baitmold and 3 others from БУГ (Bug). These resin molds are very detailed, they are finished by machine tool. To obtain a shiny skin you have to use oil and it will help also to carry out the bait after injection. All of them are marked БУГ, who should be the real Producer for all of them, but with the little ones that come from Bug the injection port depth is short. I've got the 3,8" Swing Fat: it's great, detailed and easy to inject. Both Sellers are reliable. Time delivery to Italy is really long, but it depends from our Post, I discovered that Ukranian Post is very precise. Ask to the Sellers the tracking #. Bye Cami

I love the Capt. Ken's Frog Lures, too. I created this one several years ago. I glued some pieces of polyurethane closed cell foam around a weighted hook to make the body. Shaped it with sand paper and an hot iron rod. Legs are made of a strip of same kind of foam. Fins are cutted from a thick plastic sheet. Airbrushed with acrilyc water paints. A quick dipping in clear plastivel (plastidip if you prefer). Just all. It floats and swims like a real frog to catch Bass. Bye Cami