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Paxamus

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  1. thanks ill check it out
  2. Hey guys, I am about to make a hardhead mold like the biffle one and was wondering what y'all are using for the hook hanger & line tie? Are y'all bending wire or buying an insert? Thanks
  3. It will depend not only on the weight, but also the shape. Footballs take the most silicone, while others less. I have gotten around six to seven two part single pour molds per quart, but it will vary. If you decide to try it shoot me an email or a pm and I will give you any help I can. Paxamus
  4. I shoot a quick shot of a white grease over it and wipe off as much as possible before pouring the second half. I have used thinner stuff but have had issues with bubbles. The grease seems to stay slick even after it has been wiped off.
  5. Also make sure you let your silicone molds cool, two ounces is a lot of lead for silicone. They hold heat for a long time and need to cool to insure a longer life. When I go to pour with my silicone molds, I will pour one, then pour other molds to let them cool down some. I find that pouring other things makes it easier to kill time. If you still have issues with that you could try a different silicone, give the guy at Sunbelt Materials a call, he is a class act.
  6. Here are some of mine
  7. True but I guess it is how quick it cools that makes ok. I had the same concerns when I started making them but each one is still good after hundreds of pours.
  8. PM sent, I make RTV Molds
  9. I have had a similar problem with there website, I just called them and they were very helpful over the phone
  10. I use Rhodorosil v340 to make lead jig molds, works great and I make my mold boxes out of legos. The legos work great, only a tiny bit of silicone sneaks in between the legos
  11. The thickness should be somewhere around 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the maximum diameter just to ensure a long mold life. I use a razor knife, like an exacto knife or scalpel to cut pour holes and hook spaces. I have found that screwing a cut piece of plywood to both sides makes it easier to pour multiple molds at once. You don't have to attach a piece of wood but it does displace the pressure from a clamp so you get a better pour
  12. I wasn't sure looking at them if they would even hold up to leads high temps, so I called the owner, Jim Dailey. I told him what I was going to use the silicone for and he told me to use that one. Others may work, but that's the told me to use and dlaery on this website had used v330. So that helped
  13. Not that I am aware of, I think that the heat of the lead would make the clay crack.
  14. Sink your mold halfway into modeling clay, then build a mold box around the area you want to pour, place your keys. Measure your silicone, mix, then pour the first half. Wait 24 hrs, then demold, clean up any overpours then place jig in silicone mold from the day before and repour the other half. If you write down the amount you used for the first half you can eliminate that step and just pour.
  15. I use Legos for my mold boxes and they work great. With the small thing of Rhodorosil from Sunbelt you should be able to do it, but I would caution making a 3 jig mold. I would make three one cavity molds, because if you make a three cavity, the silicone makes the cooling of the jig take longer, so with three cavities it would keep your mold hotter longer and then have longer demold time and your silicone mold will stay hotter longer and lessen the life of your mold. I personally have made a two cavity and used it but was MUCH happier making single cavities and pouring one, then while it cools pour another. Plus you actually use less silicone. Setup is 24 hrs for a complete cure for each side. Let me know if I can help.
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