steve187

Yea I think it does help, thanks. I'll give it a try for a few and see how it goes.

OK guys, thanks for the replies. I have been away for a while. Pretty much confirmed my thoughts on this matter. I have started using D2T for a wide array of minor home repairs since signing up to this board, thanks to you guys. I also have use D2T just a small bit with the weedguards. The stuff I get is quick acting and comes in 2 parts to be mixed equally. It is thick like cold molasses. As far as coating the jig with it to enhance the finish, can someone explain how it's done? I mean do you apply it in the thick form with a brush? It seems like it would be too thick to get a nice even coating. I would like to try a little of this method for my own evaluation. I just need some pointers to get me started. Thanks, Steve

Guys, I'm pretty new to this. I have been able to powder paint to my satisfaction. I know it will get better with practice. My method is to preheat each jig individually with a hot air blower, swish in the powder, and then in the oven to cure for about 25 minutes at 350degrees. These jigs get one coat and I am doing better with the uniformity of the whole process. What I am curious about is this. After this paint process do you guys also paint them again with a sealer or a clear coat of some sort? Do you use a powder to do this or spray something? Is it like a 2 part mix? I could use feedback on this as I need to determine if this is the next appropriate step in building a good jig or if this is overkill. The jigs I make are for bass fishing. All feedback is much appreciated. Thanks, Steve

OK, thanks. That's where I have been getting them.

I went to this site but I didn't see skirt tabs in particular. Maybe I just didn't know where to look. Thanks Steve

Some of the guys use Devcon 2 Ton epoxy which is 2 parts. I use it a little for the weedguards. It works. Since I bought a bit of it I've repaired many things around the house with it. It is some strong stuff. Welcome to the forum.

Here is a pic from a few I tied this afternoon. I used this arrangement with the fan once and it turned out fine. The jigs didn't have any deposits on the jig head. I hope these turn out good also.

OK I'll give it a try. I'm sort of embarrassed to because it's simply to point a fan on them while they are drying. I'll get a pic.

Well, I've been gone for a bit. My computer crashed and I haven't solved that issue yet. I have to negotiate with the wife for time on her PC, LOL . Anyway I built some jigs the other day and used the superglue gel for the weedguards. I placed a fan blowing directly on them and the next day when I checked them they were just fine. I now have a location set up for that part of the process. Thank you for the suggestion.

A fan ? Brilliant ! I'll try it next time. Thanks Steve

I am using Super glue gel. So far I am satisfied with the adhesion qualities. I glue lots of weedguards at a time. Maybe 50 or 100. When I come out the next day to check the process the jig heads always have a cloudy film on them. I assume it's some sort of a gas or vapor deposit as part of the curing process. It seems to wipe off OK but it's a pain. Does anyone else have this issue? Thanks, Steve

Smalljaw, thanks for the feedback. I am using a hot air blower for preheating. I'll give it a shot as you describe and see how it goes. I see you are in Pennsylvania. My wife is applying for work there. We'll see. Thanks, Steve

I too have been helped many times with this forum which includes Ted speaking up and offering useful assistance. I am grateful as I still am just a beginner and have much to learn. I have acquired the nylon pins also and they are a great help when pouring the lead but I still haven't quite figured out how to implement them in the painting process . I am left handed. LOL ! Any suggestions?

OK great. I'll be near a BPS and a Cabela's next week so I'll do a little comparing. Mine seem to work OK and I'm sure I didn't pay much for em but I will go give em a closer look. Thanks for the comments, appreciate it.

I only have one pair of split ring pliers. Maybe I should pick up a second pair. Right at the moment they are in the boat but if the ones I have aren't too whippy then maybe a different size or brand will help. I'm curious if my pair is lacking or not. Do you happen to have a brand or suggestion ? I agree that leaving the split ring on is the best route but sometimes I may not be paying close enough attention and sometimes the split ring will rotate when I don't want it to. Thanks, Steve

I don't seem to be very handy with these swivels. What I am referring to is when I want to replace the rear blade on a spinnerbait. I can use my split ring pliers OK to get the blade off but I usually am unable to put the split ring back on if I take it off. If I get the pliers to open the split ring It seems impossible to insert it into the hole in the swivel. It rotates but it also seems to slide into the barrel and then the hole is reduced or hidden . I can' seem to hold the portion with the hole still and solid while I try to install the split ring. Is there a technique that I am not aware of that makes this easier? Thanks, Steve

What do you do when the vice grips get all glommed up with paint?

Welcome abf. That is the durndest issue for me also. Guys will be responding here in a bit. Did you try a search? LOL ! I have limited experience but I think for starters we have to be using a painting technique that gives consistent uniform paint coating without overcoating. That is what I think is the first priority. In other words if we don't get much in there we don't get much of a problem. Make sense ? Easier said than done. I am still working on getting this process more refined myself. I am dipping into a 3" powder cup and I hold the jig between my thumb and finger. I have tried using locking hemostats, needle nose, and just plain old pliers but they don't seem to work for me. I don't particularly like using the 3" round cup. I am thinking about trying to locate something oblong that I could make a paint cup with. I think my range of motion with my wrist would be better suited for using something oblong. Sometimes I use a trick I learned on here of using a snug fitting drill bit after dipping and before oven curing. This works better if you put in the chuck end first and pull the bit all the way through Last but not least, I usually find myself heating a sharpened wire red hot and piercing the eye of the jig that needs it after they come out of the oven. This in itself is sort of a PITA but it works. Thanks, Steve .

Smalljaw, thanks for the feedback. This is sort of what I expected but wasn't sure of. I haven't done any swimming pool test and may not. The description you give explains several possibilities. I am so new to all this that I haven't yet compiled any lists yet on which hooks I can use in what mold so I'll still need to research hook options with some of my mold options. This is gonna sound funny but I also don't know whose plastic floats and whose doesn't. The other day I had a Tightlines UV Uvenko tied on weightless and it just floated on the surface. I thought that was sort of surprising and interesting. When I gave it a yank however, it slowly began to sink. This tackle building is severely cutting into my fishing time. Thanks for the info. thanks, Steve

I did a little search on the Do It site and I was unable to locate this mold. Still looking. I am going to be away for a while but will check back later. Thanks, Steve

Thanks for the reply Ted. I may acquire a shakey head mold, just uncertain exactly which one. The Do It stand up jig has about 6 different size cavities. I really don't think that's what I need or want. 3 sizes would probably work for me. I also want a long shank hook. Most important though is a head style that presents the bait vertically most of the time. Do It are the the only ones I know of that offer molds for sale. Are there other companies that I just don't know about?

I recently used at least 4 different brands of shaky head jig. The one I liked the best was called a spot remover if I remember correctly. The lead was flat on the bottom and round on top. It had a screw lock coil. I had the least hangups with it. I don't know for sure but I think it stands the bait in a vertical position fairly well. How can I get a mold to pour this style? Does anyone here use the Standup jig by Do-It ? It seems sort of like the spot remover. I also will need to use a bit longer hook than what comes on the Spot Remover. The Stand up jig mold by Do It comes with assorted cavities.

Well I am still just experimenting here. I have a wee bit of frustration getting just the right amount of super glue gel in the hole and nowhere else. If I get too much it creates issues, if I don't get enough it creates a different set of issues. What I discovered by accident when using the D2T is that dipping the weedguard was easier for me and seems to glue in and bond well. As I said earlier I also have hunch that when efficiently administered it may be more cost effective than super glue gel.

I understand your point. I am not in favor of these type of practices either. In this case witholding business probably eventually gets the point across. I have had similar frustrations in the past with some stores. For instance let's say Wal-Mart. Maybe something negative happened and I say that's it, I'm never going there again. After a while I have a similar need and so this time I go to K-Mart. Surprisingly I have a negative experience there also which may or may not be similar to the one I had at Wal-Mart in the past. I declare to boycott K-Mart now and will only go to Target and the next thing you know, you guessed it, the same thing happens at Target. What to do ? It's very irritating. Didn't Pogo say it ? On another note, if I wanted to purchase a lead pouring mold of some type that I couldn't find on the Do-It site then where would I go to get it. Are there other sources that are viable?

I have been using super glue gel for my weedguards. It's a little tedious and sometimes a challenge to keep it in the hole. It seems I never notice this until the next day when I see it dried on the outside of the hole and isn't professional looking.The other day I was making a repair to a weedsprayer and I decided to use Devcon 2 Ton 2 Part epoxy. I had finished earlier tying up about 50 bass jigs. I needed to glue in the weedguards. Right before I threw away my little mix of leftover Devcon 2 Ton I had the thought that I should try it on a few jigs since I had some ready and hated to waste the stuff. I glued in 10 or 15 jigs and the next day when I came back out and checked them I was impressed with the final results. I've got a hunch that if I coordinate things right I could do quite a few more wedguards with the Devcon than I could with the super Glue Gel for the money. What experiences can you share regarding this ? Initially I thought this would be not a very efficient way to go but now I'm not sure. I've also got a hunch the Devcon adheres more strongly.