barr5150
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Posts posted by barr5150
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I posted my diving lip punches in the classified section if anyone has interest.
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I second national.
I've bought from specialized for a couple years, and was happy, but they really screwed me around on the last order.
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16 minutes ago, benton B said:
I'm in the camp with Bobp, very good notes are keep on each body style I build. Each body style has it's own formula for ballast weight, line tie position, lip angle, lip depth, line tie and hook hanger weights, and finally the wood blank weight. When that bait is finished it will be within of .010 of the finished weight in the formula or that bait does not make the cut. This is the process I use and it works for me. I do all my field testing in the warmer months.
Benton, the question I asked was missed and I didn't want to hijack the thread. I'll send a PM. Thanks
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22 hours ago, benton B said:
I've been building the same models of cranks for years now and never put one in the water to see if runs. If you follow a repeatable formula for building your cranks then there should not be any problems from the 1st bait to 100th bait. If you make a change in the formula then you might run into problems.
BentonB.......you can build them without having to tune them? Not saying it's not possible but I haven't been able to. The only reason I bring it up is I hate freezing my tail off in the winter months tuning 100's of cranks. If I could get out of it I would sure like to.
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Are those the 3" bodied ones? I think I only have the 2.5"
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I have a 100 painters, no hardware. $100TYD if your interested.
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Delta labs out of Florida sells a white build coat for plugs. You can't turn it while drying though. Dip and hang.
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Yes, this stuff isn't like Dick nites. Dripping back into the jar does introduce more bubbles in the mix though.
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I use mason jars as well. And yes, Nathan is right. Clean the lip of the jar or you'll never get it back off.
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I do 2. One after paint and another after the lip is installed.
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Ya, smells like an automotive clear to me. Your not gonna get away with dipping this stuff in the house.
KBS is allot like dick nites but it just doesn't "go off" so quick.
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The thinner the mix the quicker it dries. If it's not extremely humid and you have a fairly thin mix you can handle the plugs in a few hours. I've fished plugs that had their final coat just 24hrs earlier. For customer lures I try to let them sit for a good few days before tuning/shipping.
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For plastic lures the problem has to be in the mix then. Watch introducing bubbles into it and you should be fine.
Also, no need to rotate this stuff. Hang and drip.
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I found you can't mix this product before dipping. Open the can or the jar you have it in and start using it. If you think it needs to be mixed or you just added a little xylene to cut it you'll need to let it sit to give the air bubbles time to dissipate before dipping. Also, you can't let the plugs drip back into the can. Every drip causes bubbles in the mix that the next lure will grab. If the container you have it in is wide enough you can dip the plug on one side and let it drip off on the other. The bubbles will stay in an isolated area for awhile. For me it's easier to just dip and hang. I don't bother letting the product drip back in the can. I tried letting the plugs drip over another container so I could save the product but it really isn't worth it, your hardly left with enough to save.
If you sure your mix is clean and not "aerated" make sure the sealer your using is doing it's job. If a wood plug isn't sealed correctly it will bubble like crazy when it's dipped in this stuff.
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I bought from here the last couple times -
http://cedarrunoutdoors.com/hooks/treble-hooks/
Pretty reasonable in qty's of 1,000. Fast shipping too.
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Mark, you get the low voc stuff to dry without being tacky?
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Where was this video a few years ago??? Would have saved me a bunch of time! I can guarantee it's going to help some people. Very well done.
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IMO - the gloss resin is best. I tried the low voc version and it's not what it says, smells just as bad and dries tacky. I've stirred it, shaked it, even put it in a paint mixer and it still dries tacky. Lately I have been messing with the sanding sealer. It's good, dries hard and never tacky, but it's allot thicker and doesn't flow near as well as the gloss resin. I tried putting it in hot water and it helps but it's still pretty thick. Too much hangs on the bait for me.
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https://www.specializedbalsa.com/ is who I use. If your planning to glue your hardware in go with medium density (40% upcharge). If your going to build a 2 piece I would suggest going with the lightest weight available.
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The last couple runs I used cedar run outdoors for my trebles ( KVD Triple Grips ). You gotta buy in quantities of 1,000 for the good price. Fast shipping too.
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TUmember10
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Gotcha Mike. I threw it out there just to make sure I wasn't missing something. I'd like to think those Japanese builders make stuff so perfect it doesn't need to be tuned but it's just not possible.
BTW - nice profile pic...SH4 is next on my list!
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Anyone ever try installing the line tie horizontal? I'm curious if there is an advantage or if your even able to tune the plug?
http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af125/barr5150/horizontal%20line%20tie_zps3dji2zuh.jpg
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X3 on the pigma pens. Best I found so far.
DIVING LIP PUNCHES
in Hard Baits
Posted
They are listed in the classified section at $650 for the pair but, I have someone on the hook for them.