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defish

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Everything posted by defish

  1. A combination of tungsten beads (like used by fly tiers) placed on the hook and then cast lead, tin, etc. to fill the mold could have potential.
  2. TJ's Tackle http://www.tjstackle.com/ has some videos demoing how to powder paint salmon spoons with powder. A lot of stuff also on youtube to see if powder will do what you want. Not sure if anyone has posted about GST on spoons that have been painted with acrylic, but I think someone was going to or did use it on spinner blades. Good luck.
  3. Here's a pic of the finished forms.
  4. Below are pics of a simple bender I made to make forms for a do-it "casting spoon." It cost next to nothing to make and the forms fit the mold perfectly. While the do-it wire forms don't cost that much to buy, if you make your own you'll save some money and never run out of forms as long as you have wire to make them with. I used .031 dia SS wire from Jann's, but will probably buy SS welding wire when I need more. I used .080 dia nails with the heads cut off as the pegs, and as the insert pin in the bolt head that bends the wire. The "turner" is a bolt with the threads cut off. A hole is drilled in the middle to fit over the pivot pin. An offset hole was drilled slightly further over than the wire's width with a pin inserted in it that turns the wire. A piece of eva was used on the bolt head to make it easier to turn. The black lines on the board are for cutting the wires to length and the red ones to index the wires so that the gap is in the middle after the forms are bent. The peg near the pivot pin on the board is to keep the wire from flexing as it's being formed. The pivot pin has a recess around it to allow clearance for the pin in the bolt head that turns the wire. You could use do-it wire forms for the spacing for the pegs or measure the mold with a caliper and use that for your spacing. Let me know if you want more info about this. Dan
  5. This may not be what you are looking for, but they have a lot holo "tape" to choose from. http://www.shopwtp-inc.com/product_info.php?products_id=37
  6. Some walleye guys that make their own keepers leave the keeper end of the wire straight on their jigs when they mold them so that they can easily change plasitics until they hit on the hot color for the day and then they use a pliers to bend the wire to lock the grub in place. If this keeper is like other Do-It keepers that I've seen, to make a simple forming tool you could just drill a hole the dia of the wire into a piece of steel to the depth of the insert's leg to fold the wire end 90 degrees and then bend (or not) the keeper end after the jig is molded.
  7. How long are your spoons? I also wondered about powder coating my first batch of spoons (up to 1 oz.) and ended up dunking them in the 1 pound powder canister that the paint shipped in. It worked fine, just fluff the powder after every spoon or two, and I dunked mine narrow end first. Probably don't want to hang the spoons to cure with the split rings on - the powder will likely flow enough that the split rings will get stuck in it. An "S" shaped piece of wire works good as a hanger. Good luck. Dan
  8. Looks interesting, but I didn't see any mention of how UV stable it is. Maybe a good idea to test it before using it on a bunch of baits in case it yellows in the sun. Keep us posted!
  9. Thanks guys - I'm looking forward to using it. I mostly paint Rapala type stickbaits/jerkbaits and like the idea of a lighter top coat and not having to deal with "The Battle of the etex Fish Eyes" anymore. rhersh - Thanks for the tip about not "double dipping" while it's still wet. When you say you spray Createx clear on your baits before you dip them, is that for all baits or only those that have Sharpie highlights on them so that the Sharpie doesn't run?
  10. Any news about GST? I'm ready to join the "I Hate ETEX" club and GST sounds much faster and easier to use.
  11. I hold any paper media up to a strong light and look through it to see if there are thin spots or pin holes which could cause leaks or volcanos. Coffee filters, and even vacuum cleaner bags have a surprising number of small holes them. I haven't tested this to see if this is helpful or makes no difference, but it seems logical. Dan
  12. That sounds like a good approach. If the 9/64 hole is a little looser than you like, a #30 or a 3.4mm drill may work for you.
  13. Maybe try knocking the sharp, square edge off the weedguard by chamfering it slightly using a grinder or a file to see if they'll slip into the jig easier. If it works, it should only take a second or two per guard to do this with a grinder. Good luck.
  14. Dremel tools with metal cutting bits are used a lot of times to modify molds, but looking at the ad for this mold I would guess that the flat bottom faces up in the mold and is where the sprue is located? Maybe post a pic of the inside of the mold so we can see how its laid out, but it would probably be much easier to modify a regular football head mold to accept Trokar hooks than to reshape the heads on this mold.
  15. With the "W" in the number, possibly a variation of do-it's Walleye jig mold?
  16. Thanks for the replies. Tubetragger: You said you use regular painter's tape on hook eyes. Do you think it would be ok on lure bodies, or would it probably leave some residue? tbrinlee: The Kapton tape has impressive specs - I'll look into getting some of that. AtticaFish: I like the iron-on-tape stencil. It look like it's reusable too. Thanks again.
  17. Ooops. Misread your post. Thought you wanted plain foil and didn't see that it's skirt material you're looking for. Would purple flashabou listed in the fly tying supply section of Jann's, etc. work?
  18. Has anyone used this for powder coating lures? It's supposed to be stable to 400 degrees and could be useful for powder painting some multicolor details. http://allpowderpaints.com/High-Temp-Masking-Tape_c24.htm
  19. I agree with Ben, all epoxies that I'm familiar with are to be measured by volume NOT weight. I like veternary syringes to measure each epoxy part with, and a lot of people use disposable plastic medicine measuring cups for larger amounts. With part of the bait dry and part sticky it does sound like the finish also needs to be mixed a bit more. Good luck. It sounds like some interesting stuff being "UV Resistant and Not Brittle." Give mixing it differently a try and let us know how you like it.
  20. This place has a bunch of colors. I ordered some wire twist ties (to keep my crankbait hooks from tangling) from them a while back - they ship fast and at a reasonable price. http://www.bagsforgifts.com/candy-foil-c-41.html?page=2&sort=2a
  21. Too bad, a car painted in "Red Crawdad" or "Table Rock Shad" pattern would be an eye catcher!
  22. I didn't mean my comment about "Maybe if there were fewer ads..." as a bash on the site or the administrators. I appreciate the time and expense that it takes to keep TU running and understand that ads are necessary to support the site. A better worded comment would have been "Maybe if there were fewer animated ads." The animated ads have to take a huge amount of the site's bandwidth, and are probably a constant source of script errors, conflicts, and headaches for the TU admin and countless other site operators. Thanks for hosting a great site and I hope your head doesn't ache too much! Defish
  23. Maybe if there were fewer ads.................
  24. With your second color for the two-tones that you dipped, are you dipping them into the fluid bed? If so, that's kind of a "moving target" with the powder floating around and dipping the jig part way into the powder paint in a regular container works better. With up to "8 oz. jigs" you probably would be better off using a powder spray gun or airbrushing liquid paint for the larger jigs instead of tapping on powder with a brush - that's a LOT of surface to cover by tapping! Good luck!
  25. If they're steel blades and only one side is getting painted, maybe a magnet to attach them to the holder in the dryer?
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