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SpoonMinnow last won the day on December 13 2018

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About SpoonMinnow

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  • Birthday 05/09/1949

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  • Location
    Montgomery, NY
  • Interests
    Making lures and anyone catching fish on them

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  1. Anyone know of a source for the lure or mold to make it? There is an individual in the Ukraine that will make a single pour mold but at a steep price. He may have one similar on Ebay, I'll have to look. I own the two large sizes but may mold the 6" in plaster.
  2. Doc Irv's worm is not a Gator Tail or even close.
  3. Anyone know the formula? Lurecraft sells what looks close but not exactly. I've mixed orange with a drop of brown and it's close. A merthiolate Slider Worm caught bunches of fish first time I tried it, but Charlie Brewer doesn't make Sliders in that color any longer.
  4. Which Devcon Epoxy? 5 minute curing or 2 Ton? Thanks Frank
  5. I've found a super fine plaster, but the gloss coat I used to use is no longer available? Any suggestions. Behr's makes a masonry, stucco/ brick Paint but a gallon is too much and would go to waste. Did a search and someone mentioned Elmer's Glue All. Anyone tried it?
  6. Easy to make yourself: Wrap the wire around a nail to create a coil of only 3 turns. Cut and make a loop at the other end.
  7. You have the wrong forum. This one is about making soft plastic fishing lures from plastisol. Your link is an ad for Rustoleum paints and not relevant here.
  8. To secure a nose hooked trailer, I use the same 24 g coated craft wire: Action is unaffected and trailer body can not come free as long as the wire loop is smaller than the hook's barb.
  9. There are many plastic suppliers - some plastisols not that good. (in my opinion M-F is one of the best or go to the many posts on TU) Most suppliers have dyes/ colors in small plastic bottles. A few drops will do but add more for opacity. (Pearl over white IMO). A small pyrex cup and microwave (some heat other ways) for quite a few lures. Pour down a tilted mold - tail first, don't overpour to maintain tail thinness. Then fill the body cavity. To simulate pork tail action either swimming the jig or jigging on bottom, the tail must be thin. A razor blade (IE box cutter blade) can cut off any excess from body or tail sides. The body should not be too thick. Slight underfilling is better than over fulling so that the body is flat on both sides.
  10. I rarely have the nose of the trailer ripped and the wire does well whether the trailer is threaded up the hook for a shorter more compact lure or nosed-hooked. Medium or salt water grade plastic holds up well. Lurecraft's (Pork) 2.5" Trailer V Shape Chunk / 5 cavity for $15 looks decent.
  11. I uses coated wire and zip ties to make a trailer grip. Before I add a silicone skirt to my weedless jigs, I cut a piece of were, hook it under the zip and make an L at the end that swings into the trailer. The L can be as long as needed - even for nose hooked trailers.
  12. I made plaster copies years ago and still use them along with other trailers: Copies of the original #11 and #1 You might want to check Lurecraft. They've copied just about everything they could that is legal, including pork frog imitations. Other plastic trailer designs also do well and I've copied them: The one on the far right is a copy of a #101 pork frog. As long as the tails are poured thin enough, the action is as good as that of the originals even using medium grade hardness. Plus, I have a method of keeping the trailers from slipping regardless their position on the jig or spinnerbait hook.
  13. Thanks. There are other innovations lures right from the mold weren't intended for like these: A candle flame and an imagination is all you need.
  14. The plastic I bought from LC was med. soft and was always difficult to separate with no use of 3 weeks or more. Maybe they've improved formulation. I haven't gotten plastic from anyone except M-F so I wouldn't know the consensus of other plastics.
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