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SpoonMinnow

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SpoonMinnow last won the day on December 13 2018

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About SpoonMinnow

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    Member
  • Birthday 05/09/1949

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  • Location
    Montgomery, NY
  • Interests
    Making lures and anyone catching fish on them

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  1. https://www.pouryourownworms.com/main.sc Has all grades of quality plastic and great customer service to answer questions.
  2. Injection molds of the two sizes are easy to make or have made. Original: . Lurecraft sells them in a silicone open pour mold such as this one that's in their catalog. Basic shape minus textured body and tail but the action should be close as long as the tail is as thick as the original.
  3. May not looked organized but it is (at least in my head).
  4. Anyone know of a source for the lure or mold to make it? There is an individual in the Ukraine that will make a single pour mold but at a steep price. He may have one similar on Ebay, I'll have to look. I own the two large sizes but may mold the 6" in plaster.
  5. Doc Irv's worm is not a Gator Tail or even close.
  6. Anyone know the formula? Lurecraft sells what looks close but not exactly. I've mixed orange with a drop of brown and it's close. A merthiolate Slider Worm caught bunches of fish first time I tried it, but Charlie Brewer doesn't make Sliders in that color any longer.
  7. Which Devcon Epoxy? 5 minute curing or 2 Ton? Thanks Frank
  8. I've found a super fine plaster, but the gloss coat I used to use is no longer available? Any suggestions. Behr's makes a masonry, stucco/ brick Paint but a gallon is too much and would go to waste. Did a search and someone mentioned Elmer's Glue All. Anyone tried it?
  9. Easy to make yourself: Wrap the wire around a nail to create a coil of only 3 turns. Cut and make a loop at the other end.
  10. You have the wrong forum. This one is about making soft plastic fishing lures from plastisol. Your link is an ad for Rustoleum paints and not relevant here.
  11. To secure a nose hooked trailer, I use the same 24 g coated craft wire: Action is unaffected and trailer body can not come free as long as the wire loop is smaller than the hook's barb.
  12. There are many plastic suppliers - some plastisols not that good. (in my opinion M-F is one of the best or go to the many posts on TU) Most suppliers have dyes/ colors in small plastic bottles. A few drops will do but add more for opacity. (Pearl over white IMO). A small pyrex cup and microwave (some heat other ways) for quite a few lures. Pour down a tilted mold - tail first, don't overpour to maintain tail thinness. Then fill the body cavity. To simulate pork tail action either swimming the jig or jigging on bottom, the tail must be thin. A razor blade (IE box cutter blade) can cut off any excess from body or tail sides. The body should not be too thick. Slight underfilling is better than over fulling so that the body is flat on both sides.
  13. I rarely have the nose of the trailer ripped and the wire does well whether the trailer is threaded up the hook for a shorter more compact lure or nosed-hooked. Medium or salt water grade plastic holds up well. Lurecraft's (Pork) 2.5" Trailer V Shape Chunk / 5 cavity for $15 looks decent.
  14. I uses coated wire and zip ties to make a trailer grip. Before I add a silicone skirt to my weedless jigs, I cut a piece of were, hook it under the zip and make an L at the end that swings into the trailer. The L can be as long as needed - even for nose hooked trailers.
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