F&R

Well I’m a dummy.. After very close inspection on my latest baits I find the “particles” are in fact tiny bubbles. Vodkaman you were right. I suspect I am not allowing thr Creatix/ Wicked paint jobs to dry and cure long enough. How long do you guys allow for this? Are there other bubble eliminating tips besides thinning, gentle mixing and warming?

I haven’t made many, but I have used 1/8 aluminum tubing from Home Depot with small, I think #6, lead birdshot in the tube. I cut the piece of tube to the length I needed to fit in between halves of the balsa bait I make. Then I sealed one end by squeezing with pliers, put in the desired number of shot, then sealed the other end. I routed a small channel in both bait halves horizontally approximately mid way up the bait. The channel was positioned front to rear so that when the bait dived the shot would roll to the fron end of the tube and keep the bait inclined at its natural diving angle. This system worked pretty well.

No they’re definitely not bubbles. I’ve checked with a magnifying glass. On closer inspection they look like tiny bits of dried/ cured epoxy. I’m going to try to strain both epoxy parts through a paint strainer before mixing the next time I clear a bait. Maybe there are particles in the bottle. I’m not sure I’ll be successful though because of the high viscosity.

Thanks you guys. Those are all helpful ideas. I’ll try them ASAP. I’m always impressed by the generous sharing of knowledge and experience from the TU members.

How do you get a perfectly smooth finish with D2T without tiny little particles protruding through the surface? I can’t tell what these little bits of contamination are. And I can’t tell they are there until the epoxy starts to cure on the bait. I clean everything well, use new brushes, new mixing containers, a clean mixing stick, tack cloth the bait and have no dust in the shop. I’m very frustrated. I’ve had the same issue with brushing on Diamond Coat using the the ‘tap the can’ method. The only way I can get a perfect finish is by the old tried and true method of dipping the bait in various MCU products. But, like a lot of you guys, I’m tired of dealing with the MCU problem of curing in the can after exposure to the atmosphere. I’m trying to convert to D2T to get a more durable finish on my flat sided balsa baits. Any ideas would be sincerely appreciated.

Try .032 Stainless Steel Safety Wire from Grainger. It’s a soft annealled wire which is is easy to bend, but not flimsy. Ive tried many wire sizes and types and often had the same problem you had with wire that is too stiff. Many guys prefer .035 wire, but I make wire harnesses for my baits which are placed between two halves of balsa. The smaller diameter wire allows for seamless mating of the two halves. I’ve never had or heard of any issues with the wire in my baits. I have also used it for twisted line and hook eyes epoxied into one piece balsa baits with no problems.

I’m using the U40 epoxy paste for securing lips in balsa baits as recommended by BobP, but having a hard time cleaning the residue off the lip. I’ve tried Q tips, small diameter wood dowels, and shaped flat wooden stir sticks. I want to leave a small fillet of paste at the joint, but I keep getting a certain amount of it smeared along the lip contour. I know it doesn’t matter to the effectiveness of the lure, but I t looks less than professional when dry. Any ideas?

I’m having trouble cutting lip slots accurately in round body balsa blanks. I’ve tried several methods but get them perfectly square and straight only occasionally. How do you do it consistently?

Bob I like the rubber band technique for marking the slot line with a sharpie. I’ll try that. I’ve been using a thin piece of cardboard wrapped around the bait to get the same effect but it’s hard to get it positioned and hold it in place and then mark the line. Like you I make different sizes and styles of baits. Making a jig or fixture for such a variety would be difficult. I’m a little worried about using the Dremel and abrasive disc. One false slip and I’d ruin the slot. I’ve been using two fine tooth hack saw blades epoxied together and cut to 6” long. It’s a bit slower that way but it makes a nice slot, usually one pass. Thanks to all of you again for sharing your ideas.

I found that I have caused this problem by layering on too many coats trying to get the exact color and hue I wanted. I hope I’ve learned my lesson. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve made the same mistake many times!!!

Thanks you guys. I do cut the slots when the piece is still flat if I’m making it from scratch. I have the problem when I use purchased round body blanks. I’ll have to give some thought to designing a jig that will hold the bait in perfect position for either drawing a cut line around the body or for holding it stationary while cuttting the slot. If anyone has a photo of such a jig that would be a big help.

I’m having trouble cutting lip slots accurately in round body balsa blanks. I’ve tried several methods but get them perfectly square and straight only occasionally. How do you do it consistently?

Thanks you guys. Good help.

I’ve been using Createx for several years with good success. I still have a problem with it not drying completely even after several days in a warm dry room. I always, thin it appropriately and blow dry after each coat and yet the surface of my baits stay tacky for an excessively long period. It takes a week sometimes before I feel comfortable to clear coat them. Am I alone with this problem?

Custer, 7/8 x 3/4 means they are 7/8 long and 3/4 wide at the front of the lip. Dimensions area almost always given as Length first x Width second in the US. It's too bad they don't also include the dimension at the narrow end for these lips. Here are all three dimensions of lips I have purchased from Lure Parts On Line. Circuit board and Lexan lips have close to same the same dimensions within 1/32. Lure Parts: Square Bills: 7/8 x 3/4 x 7/16, 1 x 1 x 3/4 Round Bills: 1 11/16 x 11/16 x 11/32, 1 1/4 x 7/8 x 3/8, 1 7/16 x 3/4 x 7/16 Hope this helps. F&R