littleriver

It worked well on walleye but I have never caught a muskey. DT2 does create a harder surface. But the you lose a lot of work time and it will cost you way more to use in the long run. Kleer Koat is table top; so it pretty tough cheaper and easier to work with in my opinion.

I had ever used etex until recently, though I have been top coating my lures with an epoxy for years. A far superior product in my opinion is Kleer Koat by US composites. Its a tabletop epoxy . You get a half a gallon for 23 bucks. It is much easier to work with than eatex. Etex pooled on my lures. Problem i did not have with Kleer Kote. Over the years the harder did turn yellow. but the resin did not. I am still using that resin with eaten harder now. The etex resin is too thin. I like to to heat my lure and my resin before coating . with heat this product will dry in about 3 hours and your fishing.

Hobby lobby has their paints on sale right now. Anita's by rustoleom only 55 cents a bottle.

Thanks to Gene, I have been safely making exact duplicates in seconds this way for years now.

All good points here in this discusion. I would like to point out Dave's point about this bait being more sensitive to this change because of design is exactly right. The bait I made in the moment of inertia topic is way less sensitive to these types of changes. For example ,I experimented some with the bill length on that bait and found it's action did not change so much no matter the bib length. I concluded the bait design was much more stable than this one and therefore had a much larger margin for error too thanks in large part to a little bit of engineering. I'll do some video of the this lures action with just split ring but it will be a couple of weeks before I get a chance. Vic