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littleriver

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Posts posted by littleriver

  1. @ Sonoman 

     

    A good idea. My first syringe was a hybrid. It served me well untll I messed it up. Loading from the top solved many problems. One is when epoxy is thinned with alcohol, once the alcohol flashes off, you don't have as much epoxy in the hole as you thought. Another is heating epoxy makes it easier flowing but it limited working time. Having the epoxy at the right temperature and with no additives made the process simple and effective every time. Syringes are designed to push better than they suck and that becomes incredibly self evident when working with a thick epoxy.

     

    ps Grinding sharp needle points off makes them easier to work with. 

  2. Ben

     

    The syringe I use is quite small and sucking epoxy through the needle would be near impossible. I always remove the plunger, place my finger over the end of the needle and pour the epoxy into the syringe from the top. I mix my epoxy in a plastic medicine cup. The cup's sides may be squeezed together to form a funnel which perfectly fits the top of the syringe making this procedure spill less. Next, i reinsert plunger just inside syringe. Then, flip it right side up allowing the air to rise to the top of the syringe. At this point, you'll need a paper towel.  Finally, I press the plunger in evacuating all the air. and a bit of epoxy onto the paper towel. Done! Ready to fill some holes


    Tip!!!
    Have a medicine cup prepared with some alcohol (no, not the drinking kind; though you'll  probably need it at this point) Have it ready for when your done filling holes. First, evacuate any unused epoxy. Then, go to the cup with alcohol and suck up a syringe full of alcohol. Next, evacuate the alcohol. Do this two or three times. When your satisfied most of the epoxy is gone, leave the syringe full of fresh alcohol until needed again on your last fill. Do not empty alcohol !!

     

    ps I never never never thin the epoxy

  3. @Granddadslures

     

    I  have no dog in this but I do have a small sampling of some of Dieter's work. I can tell you they are truer than anything I ever made with a ruler. Not sure that speaks to well for my work with rulers.  :eek: Here is one example of what I am talking about

     

    http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/10299-german-handmade-catches-east-tn-bass/

     

    This little bait is perhaps the finest running crankbait I have ever thrown. Made on a lathe with eyballing. I have thrown a few and can say without a doubt this one is perfect . I knew it the moment i started reeling . The rod tip vibrated  so much I would have sworn there was silver buddy on the end of the line. Just incredible! Nothing I have built or factor made store bought has come close so far. The KVD line is close but no cigar. The fish were just as happy as I . It turned out to be a catcher with fewer than six casts under it's belt. I was pretty surprised this freak of cranking was made with "primitive methods" but because I have examples of the man's work I know he shouldn't change a thing. 

     

    From a beginner learner standpoint, I get the point your making about the methods. Not everyone has an eye or hand for doing it the way Dieter is but anyone can learn to use a ruler.  But, I also know some folks are better with their hands and eyes than some of us will ever be with a ruler and square. Dieter and his work surely fall in the former category. 

  4. @ Ben 

     

    Thank you for explaining how your doing it. My main reason for not applying epoxy is the oops factor and the added weight and cost. I thought that was how you were doing it but wanted to be sure. Thanks again!

     

    @Jr

     

    How your sanding is great.

     

    The epoxy has a tendency to run away or pool away from sharp edges.  It does better with most rounded ones but even these can be a problem if too sharp.  I think all liquids have this quality but more noticeable on a slow curing thick epoxy. The epoxy has time to pool together where it is easiest to do so. Easier to sit on the side of a pin than the point of one. The best you can do is round off all sharp edges with sanding. 

    • Like 1
  5. @ Jr

     

    I do not think the areas where arrow are will be a problem. But the nose and tail of both baits will be a problem. They really need to be rounded off like Ben is talking about. If possible the whole bait should be rounded of like the belly of the bait without arrows. Epoxy will flow away from sharp edges leaving them unprotected. I am still learning with the superglue. Experience has taught me to use a fine sandpaper between coats of superglue. Two is the number of coats i use on everything but I think more may help fill more spots. Two leaves a decent surface. The smoother the surface one can get before paint the better. 

     

    @Ben 

     

    When you add the epoxy after superglue, do you install bill and hangers first? If not, how do you keep the epoxy out of the holes? 

    • Like 1
  6. I caught some nice fish on a five inch bone colored super spook with them on it . I did not color them and the water was dirty. But they did their job beautifully. Have to say I had my doubts till the fish started biting.......

     

    This was my first experience with them.  

  7. @Pickadoll

     

    I second that "Perfect" :worship:  :worship:  :worship: . The bait is still gliding while waiting for the next twitch. Seems an eternity. Really good i think. They don't call it a glide bait for nothing. I have to wonder how long it would glide without the tail. Thanks for sharing!

  8. The devil is in the details. Some take minutes, while others take years to learn. But we all have to start somewhere...............how much of it is understood................well we all have our limits. 

     

    Designing and copying are two different animals. I started out thinking i wanted to design my own bait and quickly learned I needed to do some copying.  :lolhuh: After learning much and making nothing from the baits I have copied, i am now making a few of my own design. These baits are in the gallery now and have design features that are known only by me. As much as I would like to share them all, I think it would not hurt that folks learn a few on their own. Sadly, I am still not making any money.  :nuhuh:

     

    Keep whittlin away at it.....

  9. You can put that second coat on immediately. I would not thin . Leave it thick so it will cover well. Check surface closely under good light to be sure no spots are missed and surface appears even. 

  10. @mark 

     

    I found line tie position to be a critical element. My two weight  glider in the gallery was dead stick on initial swim but after moving the line tie it was the action I was after. By movement of tie,  I mean up and down. Most of the two weight glider baits in the link Dieter provided have the ballast at the extreme ends of the bait. When this is done the ballast naturally gets closer to the line tie position because the bait is narrowest at it's ends. When the ballast is too much in line with the line tie, the bait would not turn. Certainly moving ballast will fix the problem but so will moving the line tie. 

  11. @ tallbald 

     

    Don 

     

    All very good advice.

     

    Taters step by step is what I do with the exception of step four. I do not do this step. I do use gesso in step 5 as my base and fishnart is right. Very thick stuff. Leaves a very porous surface. I am applying five or six thin coats to get the surface I want. If you want a smoother surface same thing can be achieved with several coats of white acrylic paint. Basically I am putting enough paint on to cover wood grain and ballast holes so they may not be seen . This takes several coats with sanding in between. This process of covering can be shortened by doing step four but I choose not to due to cost and the way I do my build; it is not convenient. 

     

    Brands of water based acrylic do differ in pigment, available colors and thickness. They range from a very watery to a paste. It will depend on you which is easier to work with to achieve the desired outcome. Practical experience will be required because everyone's needs are different. Start cheap and work on some cardboard. 

     

    I suggest you stick with an epoxy if your going to use gesso as a base. To achieve a smooth surface in the end product a thick epoxy is required. I like the gesso because of the added depth it gives the lures appearance. But if your not going to be using epoxy then I suggest you do not use it. Stick with straight acrylic. Spray paints may be used but with your lung issue it may not be the best fit. I brush everything myself. 

     

    Lastly joliepa is spot on in that epoxy is not exactly easy. So many ways to mess it up. A learning curve there will be. I almost gave up several times but the reward at the end of the tunnel is worth it. So, expect lots of cursing along the way if you choose this path. I would start with some scrap wood first before messing up baits like I did. 

     

    Here is the epoxy I have been using and continue to use. It is but one of many . The topcoat you choose should compliment the build and paint. It is but one part of a whole. So how it fits into your bait best will have to be something you yourself discover. Good luck !

     

    http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/26819-another-epoxy-topcoat/?hl=%2Banother+%2Bepoxy+%2Btopcoat

  12. @ Mark 

     

    Glad you enjoyed it and  happy to share it. Sorry it took so long.........I thought I was going to lose you a time or two.  :lol:

     

    @Nate

     

    Yes, Gene is not only very good lure maker but a very good person to boot. He is not alone, however. Through this site, I have met and continue to meet some of the most nice generous people anywhere on the planet.  Namaste

  13. @griffond

     

    Here it is shad that run along the dam walls. I have seen folks catch them using a square wire basket. Basically they were the shape of a square milk carton , The used ropes tied to where the handles would be on a carton. Then they were lowered into the water with one edge resting against the concrete wall. As the shad would make their way along the wall they would pull the basket up very quickly trapping the bait. A weighted plastic milk carton lined with screen matt may produce the same result; provided it is legal. 

  14. @joliepa

     

    Here is some footage I took a couple years ago. I was comparing the action of a Modern KVD 1.5 to a Vintage Bagley B3. I was looking for hunting action in the two baits. The old Bagley came closest with it's deadstick action. Not sure this is the type of footage your interested in but a fun view anyway. 

     

    th_Thebullandthemouse1.jpg

  15. @ littleriver

     

    I had also considered about using playdough ,Vic , .....but since it is kinda greasy , it put me off so far , I'm having concerns about proper putty , glue , -and paint adhesion at finally assembly :? .

     

    Greetz , Dieter :yay:

     

    :yes: Your not kidding. Playdough is slicker than baby's bottom with the mess to boot when wet. Not sure I 'll be using in the future but for now I will until I find something better. 

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