eric001

no, I do that to make swimbait hooks and harnesses- works great- the last rtv i bought was a 1:1 mix and set in an hr- fully cured overnight but ive poured lead/ plastic, resin for plastic lures and it works fine and you still retain detail. ive only made lead mold this way though

ohh yeah, i dont use divided cups either, most lures im pouring are 4+ oz. of mat. i heat 2-3 up at the same time in the microwave, but the color layer go the length or portions of the bait depending on if i tilt the mold ect.... so the way i do it it hard to get a bloodline, or colors side by side. mine are poured in sections lengthwise or segmented along the length of the lure. ive never used an injector or a presto pot so I cant compare my methods to any other.. it was 4 yrs of trial and error for me

use a butter knife of something similar, heat it with a propane torch and use it to flatten,ect.. its works well as a way to attach appendages aswell, this method works well if you keep you "tool" clean with a rag and razor blade to scrape the burnt plastic off- this method is smoky/stinky so ventalate- but you will not be disapointed.. you need to keep the "tool" hot-hot for a smoth fin. pour out a glob of platisol on something and exp. with it first, also when your done with the pour you can use a torch to give your lures a nive shinny wet look, but keep the torch moving 6-8" away and sweep back and forth like your spraypainting/airbrushing something.

i hand pour all my stuff, it not all orig. or the best but ive found that with the baits that i pour ive poured 4 colors on one bait, its fairly simple as long as you let the first color get a "skin" so you can pour the other colors without mixing. the trick is to pour from one spot in the mold so the plastic flows by itself. if you let it set up to long the layer will not bond together. i pour all mine from pyrex cups so i dont use a presto either- my .02

i use the dis. brushes for flux, they have the black syn. fiber bristles and the alum. handle- they dont pull out and get stuck in your finish- i dont dilute the epxy, ive used 5min to overnight stuff and it seals the same- id recomend 2 coats and its critical the mold is fairly dry so the epoxy sticks decent. i also like to slightly heat the mold before pouring, also if you dont seal all the pores in the pop, you will see more bubbles in the plastic, bubbles will also form if you overheat the plastisol. also if you run a heat gun over the epoxy, especially if you use 5 min i helps it to self level- again my .02

my buddy made a drying wheel attachment that was spring loaded. bascly he made a hydr. ram looking thing with metal tubing and springs, he then puts the blades between the compressable ram thingys. so you could hold the blade and rotate it, but at the end he would have to touch up the etec so the fin. doesnt chip off. from what we have found the added weight of the etec effects how the blades flair/spin my .02

im looking for a supplier to purchase some of the dye, and tungsten powder tnx

lurecraft makes a paint that can be mixed and put in an airbrush or painted on, lureparts online also has one......

make sure you use extra color, the floater bubbles take away from the color and make it pasty looking

heres some of the things ive been messing around with