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About froggerbass

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    cullman, alabama

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  1. Thank you for the oxyclean suggestion. I will try it.
  2. The stains i am referring to come from leaves. Similar to tea leave stains. Also, I agree on the spraying the base coat but I would like to get the bills back to clear and I am also curious if you leave the stains on the body if they will eventually bleed through the paint. Maybe not, but wasn’t sure.
  3. Any suggestions on the best way to remove tannic acid stains from found baits that you want to repaint? I’ve tried white vinegar and finger nail polish remover. The vinegar got some off but overall not very effective. Thank you.
  4. Agree on the mahogany, makes very good swimbaits.
  5. Anybody got any input on the gap size between the sections? Seems like if that gap is say .5 cm it’s going to need to be impacted by a larger force to make it move as opposed to a gap of say 1 cm. Wrong?
  6. Yeah I do that too. Just looking for some different thoughts on vibration and motion. Nothing at all against the same old ways, but baits like scroungers and chatterbaits came around when people just wanted something different.
  7. any thoughts on any unusual or unique ways to attach a tail joint or a tail within a joint? I've seen small metal hinges, like door hinge. I've never seen springs involved, curious why. anybody think it would be possible to get a chatterbait type action out of a tail or feet on a bait using a snap? Just throwing some thoughts around and seeing what you guys have to offer out of the box. Thanks
  8. This may have been addressed previously but I could not find it. Looking for some explaination and interpretation regarding the physics of some of the more common vibration/ motion creation surfaces such as jitterbug lips, scroungers, chatterbait blades, and back joints on multi jointed swimbaits. Also, on the jitterbug lip, if you made a back section of a swimbait the shape of a jitterbug lip, would the action be similar or would there be too much deflection of the flow. Thank you and Merry Christmas!
  9. That is too cool. Thank you for sharing. That’s the best part of reading and seeing what you guys have on here, being able to see all the hours put in to testing, research, adjustment, and finally after all that having an idea come alive. That’s definitely a possibility to the puzzle that i haven’t considered. The bigger one I made last had an action similar to yours on the leg kicks. I’m really looking for something I can reel very slow and get the good toad profile with the water disturbance to break up the profile. I thought the huddle jack action would do that, but so would a Rapala bx minnow type action, or probably some other types of movement. So there seem to be multiple possibilities.
  10. I did try that with the last one. Didn’t seem to make any difference. Thought maybe if I kept the first leg joint rigid it would help the feet move, but I understand why it’s a very uphill battle. Thank you for the input. The bigger frog definitely will have an impact in the spring. I tested it in 50 degree water temps ans had several small followers. Just looking for another way to attack a niche. Had a ton of followers on a soft frog last spring, that I felt maybe could be better approached with a slow waking or paused bait. Maybe I’ll figure out something along the way.
  11. So the back end of the frog didn’t have much action, but the legs do close and spread apart on the pause which is nice. Working on another now, and wanted some input. If I make the first section of the legs rigid- any input on If I should see more action on the feet?
  12. Threw some paint on the frog so I can test when I get the fins in. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
  13. Thank you for the input. I've been doing glides and a few other baits for a few years now, but always have trouble with getting the movement I need out of the back joints, whether a frog or a 4 piece fish. Love the process though.
  14. So even on this the body rigidity is what makes the tail go back and forth?
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