froggerbass

Having more trouble that unusual with a color match. The old Rapala orange. Any input on what colors go into this one? Thank you

Thank you for the oxyclean suggestion. I will try it.

The stains i am referring to come from leaves. Similar to tea leave stains. Also, I agree on the spraying the base coat but I would like to get the bills back to clear and I am also curious if you leave the stains on the body if they will eventually bleed through the paint. Maybe not, but wasn’t sure.

Any suggestions on the best way to remove tannic acid stains from found baits that you want to repaint? I’ve tried white vinegar and finger nail polish remover. The vinegar got some off but overall not very effective. Thank you.

Agree on the mahogany, makes very good swimbaits.

Anybody got any input on the gap size between the sections? Seems like if that gap is say .5 cm it’s going to need to be impacted by a larger force to make it move as opposed to a gap of say 1 cm. Wrong?

Yeah I do that too. Just looking for some different thoughts on vibration and motion. Nothing at all against the same old ways, but baits like scroungers and chatterbaits came around when people just wanted something different.

any thoughts on any unusual or unique ways to attach a tail joint or a tail within a joint? I've seen small metal hinges, like door hinge. I've never seen springs involved, curious why. anybody think it would be possible to get a chatterbait type action out of a tail or feet on a bait using a snap? Just throwing some thoughts around and seeing what you guys have to offer out of the box. Thanks

Spectacular info. Thank you!

This may have been addressed previously but I could not find it. Looking for some explaination and interpretation regarding the physics of some of the more common vibration/ motion creation surfaces such as jitterbug lips, scroungers, chatterbait blades, and back joints on multi jointed swimbaits. Also, on the jitterbug lip, if you made a back section of a swimbait the shape of a jitterbug lip, would the action be similar or would there be too much deflection of the flow. Thank you and Merry Christmas!

That is too cool. Thank you for sharing. That’s the best part of reading and seeing what you guys have on here, being able to see all the hours put in to testing, research, adjustment, and finally after all that having an idea come alive. That’s definitely a possibility to the puzzle that i haven’t considered. The bigger one I made last had an action similar to yours on the leg kicks. I’m really looking for something I can reel very slow and get the good toad profile with the water disturbance to break up the profile. I thought the huddle jack action would do that, but so would a Rapala bx minnow type action, or probably some other types of movement. So there seem to be multiple possibilities.

I did try that with the last one. Didn’t seem to make any difference. Thought maybe if I kept the first leg joint rigid it would help the feet move, but I understand why it’s a very uphill battle. Thank you for the input. The bigger frog definitely will have an impact in the spring. I tested it in 50 degree water temps ans had several small followers. Just looking for another way to attack a niche. Had a ton of followers on a soft frog last spring, that I felt maybe could be better approached with a slow waking or paused bait. Maybe I’ll figure out something along the way.

So the back end of the frog didn’t have much action, but the legs do close and spread apart on the pause which is nice. Working on another now, and wanted some input. If I make the first section of the legs rigid- any input on If I should see more action on the feet?

Threw some paint on the frog so I can test when I get the fins in. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Thank you for the input. I've been doing glides and a few other baits for a few years now, but always have trouble with getting the movement I need out of the back joints, whether a frog or a 4 piece fish. Love the process though.

So even on this the body rigidity is what makes the tail go back and forth?

Hey guys. Happy Thanksgiving. I am looking for some help on my frog. I thought the design of the feet would give me some movement on them- kind of like a huddle jack type bait. I'm getting nothing. Any input? Thank you

Just got what you are saying about a hook hanger and Texas rig- very interesting. I like it. Any suggestions or clarification on how to secure the hooks?

The hook will be in that spot on the belly. I have not tried stainless keepers. Interesting thought. To be clear, what I had in mind if I could secure the keepers is putting something like a rage tail on there. But as I said in the past, just drilling a hole and running the wire of a keeper into the hole and epoxying the wire in has not held well. I did consider the screws, that generally works ok. I just wondered if there was an option or an idea I had missed that would keep from adding the weight of the screws. I basically want the bait to be a hard bait version of a zoom horny toad. Thx guys.

Hey guys. I have a problem that I am hoping (hopping) to get some input on. I'm making a frog bait for myself and have gotten stuck on the pads (the feet). I have had problems in the past with corkscrew hitchhikers just drilling a hole in wood and epoxying them into the wood. With the frog design I'm doing the kicking feet will definitely pull those hitchhikers out. Open to suggestions on anchoring the hitchhiker corkscrews or open to other ideas altogether. Im sure the responses will be ribbiting.... thx

i'm making these baits to fill very specific needs that i have for my home lake, and as far as i know i'm not copying or ripping off anyone. i do however, find it interesting how the roman made negotiator has such as solid slalom action with its particular design.

yeah, those top two in the pic are that way, i've got them angled at 7 degrees, that's probably a really big part of the reason they worked so well with so little adjustment. that third bait, the one giving all the trouble is the same on top and bottom, but with alot of ballast weight in the bottom, now at the front of the bait as well.

i forgot to post earlier, the width on each of the 3 is almost exactly 9/16 of an inch "If the bait is working when used very slow, but it rises on a pull or when speeding it up, check to see if the bait is rolling over on it's side then coming to the top. A video of the action would help." i will def check this out, i think you may be onto something. i changed the way i added weight to the 4 piece and that 2 piece on these. instead of adding weight from the outside of the bait by drilling upward into it, i drilled from the middle of the joint all the way up to the head and added weight in there. i figured it would not only get the weight close to the line tie like some have suggested, but also redistribute some weight to the head instead of just adding a bunch of weight. i'll post when i get some results.

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad352/froggerbass/IMG_20140727_142523_zps26b98619.jpg

10.4 thank you for the info. what you said is pretty much what i was thinking, but with so little experience i wasn't sure. i'm sure there are tolerance levels in the relationship between balance and weight, but apparently i'm well outside of that range. what really got me is that i made three completely different designs and the first two work absolutely perfectly and this third one, by far the one i like most is the one throwing out a stinker. i have added some more weight to the head and taken some away from the tail and i will give it another test soon.