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DaBehr

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DaBehr last won the day on January 13

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About DaBehr

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    andrewlamberson@hotmail.com

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  1. I used to use these but if they are full of hot plastic and you squeeze them hard enough to pick them up they partially collapse and hot plastic can spill out the top. IF you only fill them 1/2 they work great, plus the seem to keep the plastic hot longer than glass. I tried to figure out some type of holder for them but was never successful. The large size didn't fit any kind of beer can holder, so I was out of luck!!!
  2. At 350 you are "ok". But still use proper ventilation.
  3. It is my understanding that the normal fumes are an irritant and affect each of us differently. I use fans and open all the windows and door in the garage when I pour. I use a respirator mask rated for fumes if I am going to pour for a longer period of time and use a fan to blow the fumes away from me so it doesn't irritate my eyes. Just use common sense. (By the way, sweeping the sand off the garage floor affects me a LOT more than pouring!). Mark makes a good point. If you can smell it, you need to change your setup.es, The "fire" incidents I have heard about is when someone accidentally sets their microwave for 10 minutes (not the one minute they meant to!) and then walked away from the work area. Heat your plastic slowly and pay attention to the temperature. If you see "smoke" , yes you have a significant issue. I can't stress enough the need to carefully monitor the temperature with a good digital thermometer. (this is true for cooking anything! You can't bake a cake at 500 degrees!) This is a great hobby,. Very enjoyable. Just take the time to think about what you are doing and make common sense changes to your process.
  4. First, take this with a grain of salt. The "grain" is ...do things correctly! I still pour (a lot) but I do it in a well ventilated area (garage) with a fan and I wear a respirator. I am very careful to monitor the temperature of my plastic using a digital thermometer (NOT and IR !). All hobbies have some risk...just ask my Uncle Stubby who's a woodworker! (Just kidding). Just manage the risks and use common sense Here is a post i put on Custombaits.com a few years ago: PVC catches fire you have an emergency toxic event! http://custombaits.com/index.php?topic=3183.msg21896#msg21896 The primary ingredient in our soft plastic is PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) which is everywhere in our lives. When you add a plasticizer you get a "soft" PVC that are used in children's toys, teething rings etc. You can also find it on the cage of your dishwasher and other places that might make you nervous if you knew what it was! Due to the low melt point...it is not used in any cooking containers...plus there is a significant issue with burning PVC (see below). If you add enough plasticizer...you get "soft plastic baits". The good news is that CCM plastic is phthalate free. Phthalates have been linked to cancer and disruptions of the hormone system. If you are using a plastic that has pthalates (only a few are phthalate free because phthalate is a cheap plasticizer) I would REALLY not use it around the kids. If you read the MSDS or talk to an Industrial Safety person or Chemical Engineer they won't be especially concerned about PVC....but... BUT ...that's the end of the good news! The BAD news is that when PVC starts to burn it releases VERY toxic fumes in the form of chlorine (PVC is approximately 50% chlorine) and dioxin which are very...very toxic. When the chlorine from burning PVC reaches your lungs (or eyes) it forms hydrochloric acid (as in the stuff they used to gas enemy troops in WW1 !!!!). If PVC is burning you have a "toxic event" and you need to clear the area! This is also why you need to wear a Respirator when heating PVC...because if you goof up (and we all do !) and the stuff starts to smoke and burn.....YOU HAVE A TOXIC EVENT! Burning PVC (like in carpet, toys, luggage, toys, packaging, siding on the house, wires, etc. etc) is one of the reasons why Firemen wear oxygen masks! So...NO....don't use it the same microwave as your food! And wear a respirator when heating PVC....because sooner or later...you screw up...and get it too hot!
  5. I agree with Andam22, use molds from the major manufacturers. There is a link on this site. They are all good. I have an extensive (!) collection of molds and I am a big fan of the Do-it Essential Series. Great price point and they make a great bait. Some people complain that they bait is not a perfect "shine" like a CNC mold but just as many have no issue with it. I assure you the fish do not care!!! I STRONGLY recommend: 1. A Digital thermometer (NOT an IR!!!). Most (darn near all !) issues tie back to plastic temperature. You need to get you plastic to 350 degrees for it to completely "change state". Make sure you stir you plastic (with the probe is fine!) to make sure all the plastic is 350. You will find that some molds like "hot" plastic for good flow into the legs etc. and some prefer "cooler" temps like 320 to avoid "dents" due to "differential shrinkage". Large bodied baits like creature baits are good examples. The big body stays hot in the middle long after the "skin" as cooled. You can find good digital thermometers on line or stop by a Hardware big box store and look at the digital thermometers in the outdoor grill section for one that measures to 350+. 2. ALWAYS wear gloves. 350 degree plastic can give you severe burns! Always wear pants and SHOES!!! When injecting use LIGHT pressure! If have to press hard something is wrong! You don't want plastic blasting out of your injector towards you!!! Read ALL of the safety posts on this site and Custombaits.com ! And never let little kids in your injection area! This is a pretty safe hobby...but a good does of paranoid is not a bad thing! Common Issues: 1. My baits turn cloudy or sticky: Plastic never completely changed state. Get it to 350. Also make sure you completely mix your plastic EVERY time you use it! Some plastics are better than others about "hard packing" ie settling. Rotate (avoid shaking) you plastic in the bottle to mix. 2. My legs or claws on baits don't fill: Mold needs to be warm and you plastic needs to be hotter (330-350) to "flow" better. 3. I get dents in creature baits or Senko type worms: Plastic is too hot. Let it cool to 320 and then inject. When reheating only take it to the temp that injects the best (i write the temp on mold with a permanent marker. You can wipe it off with WD40 if needed). Experiment with the best temp for the mold and write it down! 4. My plastic gets too hot (Big safety issue!). Heat in short bursts. I heat 1 minute to start. Then in 30 sec. intervals with a stir. In my opinion, cheap low wattage microwaves are a lot better than high wattage because they don't cook too quickly and too hot! READ....READ....READ!
  6. How could they "add bubbles" if they have no access to air underwater? Just wondering!
  7. My advice is to spend a LOT of time reading the posts on soft plastics on this site and custombaits.com. There is an incredible amount of experience and great information. Make sure you read and follow the safety information! There are a lot of really good how-to videos on YouTube. On of the best channels for beginner is from That Guy Skimpy. The videos are well done and are perfect for beginners. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8khl9s-fByjspYZLp3eCMA Good luck and enjoy all the information that is available online! Andy
  8. I use aluminum knitting needles https://www.walmart.com/ip/Boye-Aluminum-14-Single-Point-Knitting-Needle-1-Each/17370737?athcpid=17370737&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS004&athguid=e8d135e6-007-17078bb9ca3819&athancid=null&athena=true Here's a link to some posts on how to do an "e-core". Note that a number of people use nails which are easy to find it a lot of different diameters. https://custombaits.com/index.php?topic=11749.msg92006#msg92006
  9. I have never had an issue with D2T and brush marks. The only thing I can think of is that the D2T was close to set and was to thick to put on the eyes? I use Seal Coat which works really well on jigs and crankbaits and is water based so you can clean and reuse a good artist brush. For example: https://barlowstackle.com/Seal-Coat-Lure-and-Jig-Finish-P956/ If you have a Fleet Farm in your area they sell the small bottle. To help make it last darn near forever, after you seal the jar or can, put a sandwich bag over it and seal with a rubber band. Double air block!
  10. I'm not really big on Colorado blades except at night and for Northern Pike. The rise "up" and are tough to fish deep (at least for the impatient me!). You can "slow roll" them with a really heavy body and the discipline to move them (reel them) slow enough. I have had more success with the Indiana or big Willow blades for bass. It comes down to more thump...or more flash.
  11. Thump = Colorado blades. If you want a "good thump" and but want to fish them deeper at a good speed, go with an Indiana Blade. Here is a link to a really good article on the subject: http://www.bassdozer.com/articles/spinnerbait-blades.shtml I really like HILDEBRANDT blades and I get mine at Barlow's Tackle. They ship international.
  12. I use a trailer 90%+ of the time (the only time I don't is if I'm fishing for smaller bass or smallmouth). It acts like a rudder to keep the bait running true and "noise" for the bait to help the bass zero in via it's lateral line (especially in off color water where I use chatterbaits the most). Like Skidder I often cut down the length of the trailer so the bait doesn't get to long and get short strikes.
  13. A digital thermometer (not an IR which only measures surface temperature) is a MUST ! You need to get your plastic up to 350F to completely change state the first time you use it. The reheats can be a lower temperature as long as it flows well into the far and/or small parts of your mold. You can use the probe on the thermometer to stir the plastic. Here is what I use (make sure any thermometer you buy can read to 350+ . Not all do.) You can set any of the food settings and the custom to 350F (see instructions in the ?section on the below site) https://www.charbroil.com/instant-read-digital-temp-gauge
  14. I use wireforms and precut lure tape when availabe. Otherwise I put some glitter in my D2L epoxy and overcoat after I cured the powder paint.
  15. Do you mean micro-balloons as in the white "powder" that can be used to make plastic float??? If so, be advised that micro-balloon are a significant lung irritant (hazard) and should be used with extreme caution. Personally, I would never use them. Some info: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/26222-safety-with-resins-and-micro-balloons/ ...microballoons are borosilicate glass and when inhaled chronically can cause silicosis (permanent scarring of the lungs). I work in the abrasives/grinding industry and have personally viewed ceramic dust under a SEM, and have seen many particles often as small as 1 micron by 4 microns. Hence, your dust mask and/or filter is not removing them. When you sand microballoon filled resin your dust mask is not enough.
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