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Anglinarcher last won the day on April 5

Anglinarcher had the most liked content!

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About Anglinarcher

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  • Location
    Northern Utah
  • Interests
    Fishing (all types), lure making, fly tying, archery, bowhunting.
  1. Hard plastic resin and Micro ballons

    Microballoons are pretty light so it can be a nightmare trying to weigh them. I use a Lee reloader kit that has measurement cups measured in cubic centimeters. I have owned them for a long time, but I suspect they are still available. I use the Alumilite White, but it is close to the RC-3 in density, so using volume, I can get you close if you use the following chart. Try 8 cc of microballoons to 10 cc of RC-3. Because RC-3 has a specific gravity of 1.05, close to the 1.07 of Alumilite White, you can instead use 8 cc of microballoons to 10 grams of RC-3. If you maintain the ratio 8/10 or 4/5 or 2 cc to 2.5 grams of RC-3 you will get a density really close to .7 g/cc. I hope this helps you out.
  2. how i make my spinners

    Very interesting. I like them.
  3. Foiled blades

    I have played with it but I don't like the extra weight. Still, the best way I know of is to use the razor knife and push the blade down only, toward the blade, so you never pull the foil/transfer up. It seemed to work well enough that way, but it is slow.
  4. Glitter and Epoxy

    It is the size, not the source that matters. I have seen different sizes from Dollar Tree.
  5. Glitter and Epoxy

    It may very well be the oils on your finger. Have you tried wearing nitrile gloves when you do this?
  6. any superchrome user here?

    Looks good. What does it take to get started into it, and what kind of cost for a starting kit?
  7. Balsa crank problems

    Density is mass divided by volume or grams per cubic centimeter. If you take a piece of balsa and screw in a screw eye, you can then do the following: Get a container that is big enough to hold the sample , enough water to submerge it, and a gram scale big enough to weigh it all. Because water weighs 1 gram per cc, if you submerge the sample just to the screw eye, you are displacing the amount of water that is equal to the volume of the item. You are also placing exactly one gram of weight on the scale per each cubic centimeter of volume displaced. When you weigh the container, water, you then record it. Then weigh the container, water, the sample submerged to the screw eye, record. Subtract the 1st from the 2nd and you have the volume of the sample. Now, remove the screw eye from the sample and let it dry. Weigh the sample, divide the weight of the sample by the volume of the sample and you have the density of the sample. It is really easier they it sounds, and I see I need to video this stuff and start a YouTube channel again. If it does not make sense, let me know and I will try to do a quick video of it and create a link. Two samples of different materials, of the exact same size, will give the exact same volume as expected. But the weights of the samples will differ. The volumes divided by the weights will work every time. I respect you way way way too much to every tell you that. LOL Not on my wildest day would I do that!
  8. Balsa crank problems

    Yes, but you can't really do it without taking a sample home. Hover over ACTIVITY at the top right of this screen. Once the drop down menu comes up go down to the search feature. Type in Archimedes Dunk Test. Or you can go to the one below. I first did this test to determine density of materials in a science class in the 70's, but it seems that they forget to teach it today. LOL Vodkaman did a great jog bringing it back for us.
  9. swimbait open pour mold?

    How true!
  10. Balsa crank problems

    I am not the oldest of the "old school" but old enough. Balsa was/is light, and because of it is can be made super reactive (action wise). That was, and is, the biggest reason people like it. Even today Rapala is a big user of it, and the Flatfish made in the old time was far more effective than the plastic ones of today, at least in my opinion. But, you have rediscovered one of its problems. It is weak. It is also grainy, meaning it is often easier to sand then use knives, etc. Based on your picture, your lip was not embedded nearly deep enough for that kind of application. I can only tell you that you are not the first to make that mistake, and you won't be the last either. Balsa often requires through wire harnesses inside, so it can require splitting the bait and then gluing it back together. For a long time balsa guys would harden the unpainted bait with propionate (i think that is what it was called), but I read that many now use thing superglue. I have tried superglue and it works without making the bait heavy (soaking it with other things can make it heavy): I sand it a little after it is dried/cured. I personally believe you get stronger baits with the superglue then with the You are doing very well using One other thing, the etex. I would be interested in knowing how long you waited to fish it. Normally after a few days it is hard enough that the hooks won't easily penetrate. It is softer the first few hours, even a day or two, but ....... If it is not getting harder, then it can be that you are not mixing equal amounts. Check it out and let us know. Practice, practice, and with each lure you will learn more. Soon you will rediscover why balsa was, and to many is, a great lure making material. And if you have questions, just come back and ask. Now that I have opened the door with this, I am sure you will get far more results. We have lots and lots of different opinions and ideas, so let the flood gates open.
  11. Pouring Tungsten Jigheads and weights

  12. Cheapest soft plastisol brand /supplier!?

    I agree completely. I tend to use Alumisol, but because I know how it will work each time, not for the cost. I want to try others, but just can't seem to bring myself to do it. In the past I got a hold of some real stinker of stuff, but they are out of business now. Check out the thread sticky at the top of the page on PVC. I think it is the easiest to sculpt myself. We have a whole group on this site that are always willing to help out in any way we can. Just join in and enjoy.
  13. parts of molded lures to make something totally different

    Not much anymore, but in the 80's we made "creature lures" that way. We would use either a hot flame or iron to splice different tails or appendages to lures. Some were just downright weird, but they worked. LOL
  14. any superchrome user here?

    It does sound really good, and I will watch the videos on it in the future, but ....... I went to the web site. For the beginners kit, $299 US is a bit steep to experiment with, at least for me. Also, just how "easy" is it. The site says to have a professional clean booth, something I don't own or have access to. Don't get me wrong, if it works, and if you can get the same number of lures out of this as you can with 8 oz of regular paint, then maybe. Worse yet, it has its own clear, and I have no way to know if it is going to be good enough for our needs. I do see that in their web site that they link into a guy that paints fishing lures, and that gives me hope......... Final thoughts, Primer is a urathene 1.2 to 1.4 mm gun tip for the primer 36+ hours for solvent to evaporate or several hours in a drying oven 0.8 to 1.0 mm tip for the chrome spray 72+ hours for solvent to evaporate or oven dry again 1.2 to 1.4 mm gun tip for clear coat 12 hours cure, or oven again. Total, two different guns, 120 hours in drying times from start to finish. I just don't have those abilities for my hobby use.
  15. Airbrush, Compressor, and Blank Questions

    You know what, I was just thinking. The ability to control pressure is probably more important than any of the compressors or airbrushes we are talking about. The best airbrush is not going to give you, or more accurately me, the results I want if the pressure is not adjustable. Just something to think about. I have a valve and a pressure gage on one of my compressors for when I need the best results.