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Anglinarcher

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Anglinarcher last won the day on October 19

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About Anglinarcher

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    hickorybbqeood@gmail.com

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    Northern Utah
  • Interests
    Fishing (all types), lure making, fly tying, archery, bowhunting.

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  1. Perhaps the question should be can you control the temperature of the hot plate? I offer the following link regarding the breakdown of silicone and temperature. https://silicone.co.uk/news/temperatures-can-silicone-rubber-withstand/ From that web site: "For example, if heated up to 150°C you would see very little change in the silicone, even if held at this temperature for a very long time, At 200°C the silicone will slowly become harder and less stretchy with time, and if the silicone was heated up to a temperature beyond 300°C, you would quickly see the material become harder and less stretchy in a very short time, due to such extreme temperature conditions but it would not melt." Now, not every silicone can handle 150 deg. C (302 deg. F) for a long time. But, the Alumilite HS2 can withstand up to 395 deg. F for some time. I seldom go that hot, and I always treat my molds with liquid silicone oil after it and let it set (makes it last longer). In my opinion, a hot plate that was holding a temperature of say 175 degrees F, it would be well below degradation point but would preheat it well before use.
  2. As a youngster, less then 12, I use to make a version of the super duper out of copper sheets. I polished the sheets and treated it with a clear coat (don't remember which but later in life clear fingernail polish) and I swear they caught more fish than the original. The Jakes has a different shape, but is well within the ability of most lure makers. If I could find the copper sheets again with the correct thickness, I would make them right now. So, is it worth it, for me it would be.
  3. PTFE, otherwise known as teflon, has various formulations. Plastisol will not stick to it, but some forms, like teflon tape, can melt with hot platisol. Some teflon has a super high melting point and would be fine. Sorry, not sure if this helps.
  4. Lurepartsonline.com had some, but I don't know their source.
  5. I think that this was fun, if nothing more than to remind me of my engineering physics classes in the early 90's, when we investigated this motion. I am quite sure that the extra energy "absorbed" by the lure by towing it in the water will overwhelm the very minimal unstable motion due to the Dzhanibekov Effect. Still, the TRUE scientific method allows us, even requires us, to consider alternative interpretations to what we think we know. Thanks for the mental exercise, but I don't think I will be joining in on the development and design on this one. LOL
  6. Yes, I tie a few gamechangers for myself. Properly tied, they have very realistic swimming action. They are articulated, time consuming to tie, hard to cast if you tie too large of a fly on, but ....... they can be awesome. I used my 10 wt switch last year to land a 56" Tiger Muskie, but the fly was 10" log and all that my Switch could handle. I wish my gopro had not lost battery power. I plan on tying some smaller versions for Brown Trout this winter, but, did I mention how long they take me to tie?
  7. Makelure.com has some good video of injecting a silicone mold. With the right Silicone, it works well.
  8. Interesting idea. I am aware of no foam material that expands upon the addition by boiling, at least not a structural foam. It would have to have the two components (assuming it is binary) encapsulated in such a manner that upon heating it would mix and the reaction would start. Such mixing would be difficult. Upon some research, I am providing a link for your review. http://www.compositescentral.com/showthread.php?t=9307
  9. Looks good, better than the Rapala IMHO.
  10. I'm not sure why they won't work. They look close to good. If I see anything, it might be that the spacing between the silver beads could be a touch more, and a second silver bead below the blade would help to move the blade away from the red bead until it is spinning. It is hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the shaft is dirty, has something on it, and the shaft needs to be clean, smooth, and polished.
  11. No, but I have used Spike-It products and they are good. The idea of using a de-aired or degassed product also works. I have a vacuum to remove gasses from molding products and find it works good, if you need to have a gas free result. I don't happen to find that it make much difference for me on molding baits, but it sure does when making molds....... so to each their own. Give it a try, I believe you will be pleased.
  12. What floating agent? The agent would need to reduce the density, and be chemically compatible, so ............ I have seen microballons added to plastisol to reduce the density, and you can add it at any time. Still, it makes it opaque, white, and less soft. BUT, if you have a chemically compatible additive, that won't boil off at 350 degrees, then in theory....... What floating agent?
  13. Just another Alumilite UV, or another Solar Res. I see no reason it wont work well.
  14. Alumifoam is much tougher than cedar. You can use screw eyes alone, no wire harness, and it will not fail. When it first came out, I molded up a jointed bait with screw eyes molded in and tied it to Power Pro fishing line. I than slammed it into concrete and it took about 10 smacks on the end of the rod to the patio before it broke. I hammered it with a hammer into dirt and it did not damage it. Can you break it? Yes, with far more effort than any wood. Larry Dahlberg used it in the Amazon on Rattle trap type lures an it broke teeth off fish instead of breaking the lure. I caught some 4 and 5 foot shark on a lure I made with it in the Gulf and they left scratches but I never had a hook pull. Now, as for painting, They can be tough. I believe that Larry had one of his "Hunt for Big Fish" shows where he painted the inside of the mold before molding it to transfer the color. I have used Copic alcohol based paint and it worked to a point. Normally I use white Createx and air brush several thing coats. I have also used rattle can white to base coat it and that may be the best option. The foam is hydrophobic so coverage is not easy. Light coats, build up, then paint. Super Glue will not eat this foam. Acetone will not eat it. In fact, a Dremel Tool has a hard time cutting it, a drill penetrating it. I made some floating bodies out of it for a friend so he could cut slots and add his own hooks. My friend sent them back to me. ROFLOL He said it was to hard to cut. Now, as for bubbles, if you prime it and paint it properly, you won't have bubble problems. If your prime and paint job is poor, than any top coat will bubble.
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