Anglinarcher

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Anglinarcher last won the day on September 21

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About Anglinarcher

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    Advanced Member

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    hickorybbqeood@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northern Utah
  • Interests
    Fishing (all types), lure making, fly tying, archery, bowhunting.
  1. Rotisserie motor

    And I got a geared motor used off ebay about 7 or 8 years ago for about $5 plus shipping and it still turns them out. As long as it turns a couple times a minute, it will work for epoxy. Mine is quite a bit faster.
  2. Microbaloons

    I use Alumifoam, a little different to work with, but it has the density of cedar wood. If I want to stick with Alumilite White and Microballons, I pour it, then I plug the mold pour port, then I hand rotate the mold (rotomolding). If I pour 10% or so less material and do this then I end up with a hollow core. On lures I can do this with, it gives me an Awesome floating lure. A third method I use is to use the rotomolding method with about 20% of the required material, then fill the empty void with Alumilite 610 foam. This gives me a lure just heavier then balsa. Now, back to the Alumilite resin and Microballons. Yes, best to pour form the top center of the lure, but if you do pour from head or tail, it will still work, it just requires slightly different ballast. Never pour form the belly or side. Hope this helps some.
  3. Microbaloons

    Depends on the lure. Most of the time it is tough to get a lure to float with just Alumilite White and Microballons, even with equal volume of ballons and resin. But, it can make a slight difference and then it is a problem if you don't figure that into the design. I always just figure it into my design now.
  4. Just when you think...

    I friend got up during the middle of the night and put Carmex on his lips, but, it was actually Preparation H. ROFLOL He had the tightest lips for a couple of days.
  5. fluorescent?

    It is probably a little of all of the above. I don't have problems with the paint straight out of the bottle, but I use a different airbrush. I use to have problems, but after enough practice I kind of developed the touch. I have painted with lots of different paints, from Createx, to hobby paints, to taxidermy paints, etc. Each one is different, each one needs a little different handling, but each one works well. Even Black and white are different to paint with, with black covering better, but drying faster, white taking lots of layers to cover, but drying less fast (tip dry). So hardware trouble, it is possible. Being used, I would take it apart and make sure that the needle is clean, straight, and polished (non-pitted). Paint issues, well it will take time to get each paint figured out. Pick one brand and figure each color out, then work with other brands. Lots of the "Hobby or Artist Paints have pigments that are not ground fine enough for normal airbrush work, but with a larger needle they will work. My Talon allows me to use three different sized needles so I can go up for "dirty paint" or metallic paint, or down for detail work. Operator trouble, it may take a few tries, or lots of tries, each of us have different sill sets. Just remember that everyone of us started the same way, and each of us had to go through the same learning curve. You can do it too, but how fast depends on so many variables that I cannot predict how long it will take.
  6. can you make a solid color?

    And no, they do not make a "white plastic" but they do have white pigment, and it is always opaque.
  7. Wood Densities

    I have also considered making baits in halves with resin. The biggest thing is getting a dimensionally stable mold so that the two halves match up all the time. I was thinking of trying that with VacMaster 50, but that is a project for the future.
  8. Wood Densities

    Because it sets up in about 7 minutes or less, I normally let it cook for two or three then pour. Then I just rotate it with my hand. But, I have been looking at making something for that. Check out the following link for an idea of one of my next projects. LOL
  9. Need help homemade hand injector

    No, I don't. I have not looked for one to make in some time. The cake syringe looks interesting, but for safety, I will probably get my next one out of metal. I am currently using a hard plastic one that is no longer sold.
  10. What do you think?

    I know that Larry Dahlberg, host of Hunt for Big Fish, does that. He really likes it. I just don't like reheating anymore then I have to.
  11. fluorescent?

    "Neon colors which emit a glow. Work best over a white base color such Opaque White. Fluorescent colors are NOT lightfast. The color’s fluorescence is due to the pigment being in a rapid state of decay. Fluorescent colors are not intended for permanent finishes." Yes, I see that write-up. It is unfortunate that their information is somewhat less then accurate. Neon colors do indeed emit a glow, but only when exposed directly to other light, mostly white or black light (UVa). It does not glow "in the dark". Indeed, they do work best over a white base coat. Technically, no, Fluorescent is NOT lightfast, so don't use it if it is exposed all the time. Fortunately our lures are not exposed to light all the time. They tend to set in our tackle boxes most of the time. Being lightfast means that they won't fade when exposed to light, mostly UVa light, but again, it takes time, time our lures will not be exposed to. The following link is a bit technical, but might help some. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_paint Yes, the pigment is in a "rapid state of decay", but that rapid state means it will decay in years instead of decades. I would not worry about it for our purpose. True, no Fluorescent color is intended for permanent finishes, so if you want your lure to look like a fluorescent color for your great grandkids, your out of luck. The information about Fluorescent colors is true no matter who makes it. Considering the grammatical error in Createx's write-up, I guess that even a big company can make mistakes.
  12. New jointing method for Swimbaits?

    You never know, but look at the Live Pointer. It just uses flexible steel wire through the multiple joints. On paper, the wire is very strong, 80 pounds or more I guess for each strand, and very flexible. But the strength of wire, or bead chain, is measured in tension, or pull. It is not measuring shear which is what is created when the joint is flexed hard when a fish is fighting. Mark made the best suggestion here, test it in the shop first. I have tossed dozens of Liver Pointers away before I stopped buying them, just because of broken joints and lost fish. But, I have considered replacing the wire with Spectra............ Again, you really never know until you test it. Try it and let us know what you think.
  13. createx

    It really depends on your experience and current skill level. Plain water works really well for me unless the air is really dry or hot, then I prefer a thinner. Also, if I am going to be doing a big spray, lots of lures and time with one color, then a thinner mix that helps with tip dry is valuable to me. Buying a thinner is fast and sure, but it does not necessary work better then home brews. The problem is that not all home brews are the same. I do believe Musky Glenn said it best.
  14. Custom Worm

    How many does he want? If it is a duplicate, does he/you have any samples? Assuming he does, you can make the mold out of VacMaster 50 or HS1, you can even inject. As usual, the cost is in the original mold, but it is inexpensive compared to having a mold machined. The cost for a couple dozen would be high, but the cost goes down from their.
  15. Need help homemade hand injector

    I have seen something on YouTube about making one, but the guy had a metal lathe. Still, check out YouTube and see what you can find out. I have given it some thoughts as well, but safety is pretty important so I have not followed up on it.