Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Anglinarcher last won the day on October 23 2019

Anglinarcher had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

461 Excellent


About Anglinarcher

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • MSN

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northern Utah
  • Interests
    Fishing (all types), lure making, fly tying, archery, bowhunting.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You know River2Sea once made a lure like that. It has been out of production for some time but I have a couple in storage somewhere. It is a hot lure for me so your efforts can be very rewarding.
  2. I would get a different UV cure and verify the suggested wavelength. I use Alumilite's UV and a fingernail UV curing light and it cures in 3 to 5 minutes. I use to use Solerez and got the same results. If you are having issues with hours, then the stuff you have is either separated (mix it), bad, or your lights suck. I use Loon fly UV fly and knot cement with a small 9 LED hand held flashlight and it cures in seconds. Something seems a little, OK A LOT, weird about your problem.
  3. To follow up and clarify, you can add whatever you want to the clear dip. Some will settle, some won't, so your process will need to be adjusted with each addition. There are highlight dyes you can get that add the iridescence, glitter made for hot plastic, .......... so many options, so little time.
  4. I manage a fishing department for a sporting goods store and we have some packages on the wall. In my area, they sell slow, very slow, and I know I have packages well over a year old. There is no evidence of color migration when comparing the new packages to the old. After seeing the creme cut up, it must be a process similar to what Basseducer suggested. Once the production machines are set up, the results would be repeatable and completely predictable. All dyes bleed some, some more then others, so the dye used in making the worm would stain a white chip. This test would only show that a dye is used to color the worm, and we already know that.
  5. In general, dyes won't penetrate cured plastisol. I can think of several ways that might work, but, never finding that worm or pattern all that effective I have not tried it. Perhaps starting out with the mold, then pouring the base color. Then airbrushing a gradient onto the inside of the mold, placing the worm back in, then heating the mold to about 300 degrees to just soften and reset the plastic. Not an efficient method, but, it might work. I know this is not how it is done, but perhaps molding the base, then airbrushing the bait. Then dipping in clear. It would take out some of the surface detail, but it would work. I bet other methods can be thought of as well.
  6. Spike-It makes a garlic dip that works pretty well also. It is pretty permanent, usually does not get sticky, etc., etc. But, keakar is right about the best results coming from molding the different tail color. The color you get from dipping depends on the color you are dipping over. Dipping a white gives good results while dipping a black gives lousy results. Molding always gives excellent color results.
  7. Asking for the brand of plastisol is like asking if I prefer blonds, brunettes, or redheads. Of course, the answer is yes. Each of us are going to have our own preference and telling you I prefer Alumilite will only fire up those that prefer another. As for reheating, well it won't discolor as much as you think if done correctly. Adding a little heat stabilizer after the first heat, using a microwave on medium power and mixing frequently, adding a percentage of new/fresh plastisol with each heat, all help. When it does start to discolor, you take what is left and save it for a colored mix later. I suspect now that I have broken the ice some of the power powers will chime in. I do have a narrow but tall lab grade beaker that I have used to clear coat some plastics. Check out the laboratory supply houses for that item.
  8. Good clarification. If glue was not tough enough for the hobbyist, try sonic welding and try to get it sealed. LOL
  9. Several years ago SolarRes was the hit UV clear coat. At the time the complaint was that the clear had a slight haze to it, but it could be polished off after cured. Also, curing for 30 seconds, then resting, then curing seemed to work. When AlumiUV came out that was what I went to. I like it. I still use a fingernail UV cure box that I got way back when but they are still sold on EBAY and Amazon. I someday plan on making a full sized curing box like shown on Alumilite's videos. I won't get into an argument about what is best, which clear does this or that, but I have been really happy with the AlumiUV. I hope this helps some.
  10. The commercial injected baits are all melted plastic injected under extreme pressure. That is what ABS is and it works great, if you are a big commercial producer. For home pour, Alumilite is the best option IMHO, but getting the exact ABS results is not going to happen with today's technology to the best of my knowledge. I use Alumilite and find it works well, but variations to your design will results in some great options. First, with ABS it is mostly hollow baits that are glued together. While I do hollow baits with Alumilite White, I rotomold to get them. I have not found a glue that secures Alumilite White to each other, but perhaps Alumilite can help with that.
  11. Funny, we can't sell the pivot head jigs at the store I work at, had to clear them out. But, those of us in the know love them. I vote for the flat bottom, but if I can only get the other then no problem.
  12. That looks like a real killer.
  13. Flex 70 cures to a light translucent yellow, not clear and colorless, so that is an issue for sure. What I am confused about is "They tear up". Are you sure you mixed it well. Both the A and B parts must be mixed very well before the two parts are combined and mixed. Part A and part B separate in the containers when left to sit. I found that out the hard way myself. Ugggg. Yes, Smooth-On also has similar products, but they also need to be mixed. Good luck in your endeavors.
  14. Yep, Bass is correct, especially about mixing. Even new Plastisol separates and can even hard pan at the bottom of the bottle. Some brands are better then others, but all do it over time. Mix, mix again, then mix like you really mean it, and you should be fine. If all else fails, get some plastisol hardener and add just a little.
  15. Come out to Utah and Fish for the Channel Cats at Utah Lake or Willard. You WILL catch cats on your fly. These fish are as aggressive at the walleye and Wipers here. LOL
  • Create New...