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Anglinarcher last won the day on November 18

Anglinarcher had the most liked content!

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About Anglinarcher

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Northern Utah
  • Interests
    Fishing (all types), lure making, fly tying, archery, bowhunting.
  1. Basecoat

    We don't seem to like the phrase "trial and error", but in reality that is what we do. The fact is that each of us has our own Best Way and I don't think any two of us do it the same. I have primed with an airbrush a lot, and it works, but it is not always easy. If I was priming pre-fabricated plastic baits, and I use to buy a lot of them, I would roughen the surface with fine sandpaper, clean with an alcohol wipe, then prime with an airbrush using a hi hide white, water based. I found that to work best. If I was priming wood baits, and I have done my share in the last 50 years, I would seal the wood first (sealer has changed a lot over the years), then again sand with fine paper to roughen, then clean with Alcohol wipe, then prime again with water based hi hide white with an airbrush. If I am molding my own with resin, then I have to deal with the lead or tungsten at the surface of the bait that I used for ballast. This is when I need to be creative. Sometimes I spray the inside of my mold with the Krylon and then mold the lure. The resin takes on the "primer" and makes it a lot easier, but I need to clean the overspray from the silicone mold (pretty easy). If I don't pour within about an hour or priming the mold then sometimes the primer does not transfer well and it is splotchy, so again, a little different method. But, most of the time I am not in PRODUCTION MODE so don't do it that way. That is when I go to the spray methods, and the rattle cans cover so much faster than the airbrush water or solvent based......they simply have more solids in the spray. If I am molding them myself, I don't have issues with the solvent damaging the baits. So, as you can see, lots of different ways. So, at the risk of saying again, it really is "trial and error". Wow, hope this helps, did not mean to make it so long.
  2. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    LOL, I should have refrained from answering this question. BUT, I am not Catholic so I don't think the Vatican will come down on me if I seem to Pontificate about the subject. Just because you can smell something does not make it dangerous, at least to most of us. You smell perfume, air freshener, hand lotions, etc., etc., and they don't hurt you. Now, on the other hand, it gives my wife an allergic reaction and she has a rescue inhaler for church and when she flies, and it is soooooo fun getting on an airplane with the 3M half face mask for organic vapors. Yes, you can do it, but the looks are unreal. A doctor's prescription/note sure does help. On the other hand, my wife has no issues at all with my plastisol in the microwave. Get the SDS (Safety Data Sheet) for the plastisol you use, learn what PEL (permissible exposure limit) is. After all, inhale too much water and you will drown, inhale too little and you dehydrate and die, just right and you have a humidifier. Some, and they are on this site, will preach ultra safety, and if I was doing commercial amounts I would sure have a sniffer and monitor the PEL levels. I do believe in safety, but I have learned to know what safety really is, and I attempt to not overreact. Check out the attached SDS from Alumisol and their Plastisol. I have highlighted the applicable sections in yellow. Other brands might not be the same, but all are similar. Ultimately you must decide for yourself. BUT, while you can never be too safe, you can be safer then you need to be. "Just saying" I think is the in phrase now. Good luck on your research, but I advise that you do not take what we say as though we are lawyers; WE ARE NOT! Alumisol SDS -1.pdf
  3. Barrel twist wire screw eye

    PS, I usually use brass when I do it. It is easier to tune and easier to make.
  4. Basecoat rattle cans??

    Nope, never done LOL, but have done hardbaits. Keep the coats, usually keep them as thin as possible, close together, about 30 minutes apart, then mist them with the airbrush paint about 30 minutes after the last coat. Then you must let it dry the full 24 hours before doing the regular AB methods.
  5. Basecoat

    LOL, basecoats are not easy, and the items you basecoat can make it harder. I pour resins a lot, and the white resins help some, but the lead ballast I pour into it can migrate to the surface and makes it tough to coat. The options given above are pretty good. I also base coat with Krylon spray paint, the fusion was my favorite, but it is hard to find now. I still have issues getting it to cover the lead shot on the surface. I started doing something weird, something very weird. I rattle can a metallic Rustoleum on first, then rattle can the white Krylon over it. It takes far fewer coats now. Tell us something about what you are based coating and it will be easier.
  6. top water

    Also, call Lurepartsonline. I do remember the blades being available, just cannot find them. This is the closest I can find.
  7. Barrel twist wire screw eye

    My best suggestion is to hover your mouse over activity at the top right of the screen, then go to search at the bottom. Click on it and enter several options. I entered home made wire eyes and got the following. made wire eyes As for what you mean by "Barrel twist", I am not sure. But, I home twist my eyes by using a small round nose pliers, often called a jeweler's pliers, to make the round eye, then a pair of pliers to twist the rest. But, is that what you are after?
  8. New Weed Guard Set-Up From Mark Pack

    Just thinking, I saw a patent application from the 60s that would seem to prevent every 3D eye we put on a hard bait. But, seems we don't have an issue so far. I have been doing that style of weed guard for 45 years on my bass flies, just tied the monofilament instead of using a slip piece of rubber. Patents applied for don't seem to protect, as indicated by CNC, and enforcing patents seems pretty hard as well. I am glad that for the most part I am a hobbyist. I suspect that there is a patent for how I breath air, and a lawyer willing to sue me over it. I know that someone has a patent application for just about everything else, including time travel (search it out). ROFLOL
  9. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Travis has a point. Engineering controls, like first not using dangerous products, is always the first option. 2nd is venting the material so you don't exceed the PEL, permissible exposure limit, for the toxin. 3rd of course is using the appropriate respirator, and using one that fits and gives you sufficient protection is best. The best supplied air is useless if you don't use it, the best half mask is useless if it does not fit or the filters are incorrect. The supplied air unit I used was bulky, impacted vision, but for the high radiation and chemical levels at the DOE site I was at, it was the only option. Half mask simply did not provide sufficient protection. Just don't think a hood is sufficient if the PEL is exceeded. A sniffer may be necessary if the toxin is bad enough.
  10. Harder soft baits

    Ditto. All plastisol products settle, some even hard pack, so you need to mix the material really well before you cook it to the turn over point. Now, some settle much slower, and some don't hard pack as much, but given enough time, all do that I have ever tried.
  11. top water

    Did a quick search blades Seems like these are going to be pretty difficult to buy, may need to make them.
  12. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Not for lure making, but have used it for work some time ago. It is not what I would say was fun, but it worked for sure for highly contaminated areas.
  13. Krylon Fusion - Prime and Topcoat

    Yes, Krylon Fusion is good stuff. Can you still get it? I could not find it when I looked last, so had to go with their newer stuff. I use to use it as a base coat a lot.
  14. Alumilite urethane foam

    I have no issues with Krylon primers followed with Createx white. I do mist the first Createx, and prefer to use the water based within the first hour after pulling the Krylon primed parts from the mold, or painting with Krylon. No additive added. I suspect that it is all a matter of personal technique, things harder to explain then we can put into words.
  15. Alumilite urethane foam

    Ditto on the brownish, so I always prime. But, I have painted directly with no problems.