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Anglinarcher

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Posts posted by Anglinarcher

  6. Alumilite uv clear

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    On 6/26/2022 at 8:36 PM, Hillbilly voodoo said:

    So finally found a good source for uv clear so decided to give it a try

    I have had two small batches with the same issue. First coat goes on perfect but second adheres blotchy 

    Well researching issues I seen mention that it drys too slick is why the second coat is not adhering properly. But I didn’t find any information on the correct process for applying multiple coats. I am thinking lite scuffing with fine sandpaper might do it but figured I would ask here first

    So what what method have you used successfully to apply multiple coats?

    @Anglinarcher where are you as I have a feeling you have the answer I seek

    Sorry, off for a while.  IF I feel a need for a 2nd coat, I rub it with alcohol to clean any oil from it and just apply.  No scuffing necessary.

    • Haha 1

  7. Alumifoam Cracking Problem

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I copied this off the site.  I removed some items not applicable to the conversation.

    ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

    TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

    Product:
     
    AlumiFoam Color: Brown
    Mix Ratio:  1:1 by weight or volume
    Pot Life:  45 seconds
    Rise Time: 75-90 seconds
    Demold Time (100 gram mass): 10-15 minutes
     
    3-5x expansion
    Flex Modulus (psi): 50-1200 flex strength
    _____________________________________________________________________________________________
     
    The pictures of the bottles match; I kind of figured you were using a different foam, like the 320 or 610.  
     
    One thing that did not seem right is that your foams seem different color(s) compared to what mine come out as, a brown or dark tan.  I see the specs say it is a brown also.
     
    The ones I mold will not flex, just like it suggest when it says it takes 50 to 1200 psi.  In fact, when the stuff first came out I did a mold and took the lure and hammered it, yes, with a hammer, and it did almost no damage.  I had a video on YouTube a long time ago but my wife took my channel down.  I then took the same lure and tied it to about 5 feet of line, and the end of a fishing rod, and repeatedly smashed it into my concrete patio.  It took several smashes to break it.  This lure blank did not even have a wire frame in it.
     
    Recently I made some floating jig heads, without hooks, for a friend so he could cut a grove, insert his hook, and glue it in.  He could not get his saw to cut it (I use a Dremel cutoff wheel).
     
    So......... what is the difference?  I am not sure, but I have to believe it is one of a very few things.
    1) The bottles are not properly mixed.  Sometimes shaking it is NOT enough.  I have used a bent wire on a drill to mix it.  Don't worry about bubbles, you will make more.
    2) User error, not mixing correctly.  Follow the directions exactly, and if necessary, have a friend come over and do it and watch them to see if it comes out different.  Do not instruct them, have them do it on their own.
    3) Last option, and until the first two have been completely verified by competent and experienced people I won't accept it; you might have got bad bottle(s).
    • Like 1

  15. Ice jigs

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    A hint that will help perhaps.  I use the 3rd hand tools from Harbor Freight or others to hold the parts together then I mix 50% epoxy with 50% Tungsten powder I get from Alumilite.  It bonds as well as solder and is as heavy as pure lead.  It is as dense as pure lead so it shows up well on the fish finder.

    The only drawback is the curing time, but, for me, it is worth it because I can use any hook I like.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  23. Flex Seal

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    Do you mean he "Flex Seal" we see with the guy sealing leaky boats, leaky basement windows, etc., etc.

    If so, then it is a liquid rubber, and I have no doubt the clear will work for YOUR application.  It will not bring out the "pop" or ultra clear and depth that many of our preferred coatings do, but, and I want to emphasize this, there is not ONE clear coat for every application.

    No doubt it will not hold up well to pike or Muskie teeth, but I bet it will hold up to crappie and trout and similar small tooth critters very well.

     

  24. Uv curing

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Remember that there is so much more than wattage. 

    You need to consider the wavelength put off and the required wavelength for the specific UV Resin you are using.  Most UV sources have a fairly wide range of waves, but most also have a sweep spot that is strongest.  I prefer 365 nm for what I use.

    Remember also that distance from the light is super important.  If you double the distance between the light and the lure than you only have 1/4 the light strength.  Yep, the strength of the light is inversely proportional to the distance squared.

    So, if Bob and Mark and I use the fingernail light curing lights, our lures are about an inch or two from the light.  Let's assume that our lights are 10 watts each, and we have four lights in the device for a total of 40 watts.  Now, assume Killintime uses his lights, 2 of them at 30 watts each.  That is 60 watts total.  Will his 60 watts cure his faster?  Actually, I bet he is at least 4 inches from his lures, so his energy is only 1/16 as strong as ours (or about that, I'm tired and going by mental math LOL).  So, our 40 watts compare to his 60/16 or less than 4 watts.

    Consider this when building some form of UV curing device.  Engineered Angler has a good contained system but his is not the only style.  The number of his lights, and the UV range, and the distance from the lure all make a huge difference.

    • Like 1
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