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Anglinarcher

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Everything posted by Anglinarcher

  1. Remember that the hair dryer (I mean heat gun), is for drying the paint. Createx paints were created for cloth, T-Shirts, and heating cross links the paint to make it stronger, but that is not necessary on lures. Wicked and the other Createx paints won't cross link so that helps nothing. But, drying between coats, or at least allowing it to completely between coats, is critical.
  2. Intercoats are not always necessary, but you can use intercoats at any time. For example, intercoats between candy coats are necessary, and different intercoating material may be necessary to prevent bleeding. Another example is the use of chrome paints. For years we have been trying to get a chrome paint that would work, and they always went gray when we clear coated. Now Engineered Angler on YouTube has discovered that Minwax Polyacrylic and pledge used as an intercoat stops the gray and keeps it glossy/chrome. On the other hand, using intercoats between normal opaque or transparent coats is totally unnecessary. It just adds thickness and weight that is not needed, and not always wanted. Finally, if the intercoat is compatible with other paints, I do not sand or remove the shine at all.
  3. This is an old thread, but some clarification of this if I can. I use AlumiUV and have used Solerez, and they are all similar as far as I can tell. First, 365 nm is the sweet spot, but most UV sources have a broad enough spectrum to cover that. Still, more power, faster cure. Black lights take a long long time, perhaps hours. The closer to the source, the faster the cure, and as mentioned before, twice the distance is 1/4 the strength, so close is better. Next, aluminum foil is a poor UV reflector, so you will get some improvement, but little. If you use a 350 watt UV source in the 365 nm range, it will cure in seconds. If you put it out in the sun, it can take perhaps an hour, but sometimes much less. Larry Dahlberg uses an off the shelf UV source and turns it for about an hour. Engineerd Angler on YouTube has a home made turner with UV Source and I think he does about the same. I have a fingernail polish UV cure device, about 150 watts (2 each 75 watt bulbs) and I normally put the lure using Solerez in about 3 minutes, rotate it once, put it in for 3 minutes again. With AlumiUV, I do about 5 minutes and rotate it and 5 more minutes. I don't think I need it that long, but I want to make sure it get's deep enough on a thick coat. Note that the fingernail cure device puts the lures a couple of inches away, so I am getting a pretty strong exposure. These options might get you started: https://www.solacure.com/365.html
  4. Popular has a habit of expansion and contraction due to temperature, etc., so I have heard bad things about it..... never tried myself. Going with a lighter wood allows for more ballast flexibility, and like hillbilly I like Cedar. BUT, I am a terrible wood carver, so I prefer to use resin.
  5. It really depends on what type of tail material, look, and shape you want. If you can give us a photo of a tail you want to copy I am sure we can help. In reality, there are lots and lots of ways to help improve the looks....... But, that tail will catch fish.
  6. At one time, Makewoodenlures.com (if I remember the site) sold a "holoform" tape to use like a sticky back foil, but stretchable. I have been surfing some lately and found this stuff. https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/reflector-tape-eyes/309111.aspx It looks a lot like it, at least in print. "Special backing stretches so it conforms to most shapes without wrinkles or creases. Comes in 3 inch wide strips and are 12 inches in length. Tape is easy to use with self sticking waterproof glue. Just peel off the back and stick it on." The makewoodenlures site does not exist anymore, so I never did get a chance to try there holographic scratching material. First, did anyone try the original stuff and did it work well. Second, has anyone tried the stuff from janns net craft? Engineered Angler showed how to get a great chrome finish that does not turn gray, but I am still seeking the good holographic finish. Thanks, Steve
  7. I have seen a pair of tweezers that have a bottom lip that stick out more, super thin, just for this purpose, but I don't have one. I use the Exacto knife or even a pocket knife as well.
  8. Old thread, but... http://www.makelure.com/video/make-your-own-marlin-lures-and-abalone-inserts
  9. I know this is a little old, but maybe someone still needs to have an idea. First, Define really shiny. I have found that if I paint a dust color on the surface of the mold before I pour or inject, it comes out super shiny. Below are options I have used. https://www.alumilite.com/dyes-colors/alumilite-metallic-powder/ https://www.alumilite.com/products/dyes-colors/ This does not provide a soft plastic bat that looks like the regular colors, but it will provide various "super shinny" options. The metallic is the best at that.
  10. I don't buy enough to help with the numbers. I do wish that we had the US production again.
  11. Good question, and not an easy one for sure. I know that the old plastic in fishing boxes would melt from soft plastic worms, like back in the 60's and 70's but I am not even sure if the Plastisol we use now is the same material. I would add to Jigmeister's list by adding rubber "O" rings, like the ones used for wacky rigging. Today the only soft plastic I see melting either other soft plastic or some bags is the material used by Z-Man. I think that jigmeister is also correct about the hard heads: harder plastic used for the heads, solid and not hollow tube jig heads, etc.
  12. Give them a call, 800-546-8922.
  13. "Can people pay US 17.99 per piece 3/4 oz?" Can they? Yes. Will they, I seriously doubt it. Some custom fishing lures do cost that much and more, but Jigs and Spinner Baits can be purchased for a dollar at Walmart and we like cheep. I have observed that $7 spinnerbaits and jigs just sit on most shelves at the fishing stores.
  14. Are you talking about something like the attached? If so, you take or find your best pictures, import it into Paint (Microsoft products, I don't use MAC so can't help). Once in paint you can alter the size, and shape, to get what you want. The resulting pictures can be printed on water transfer decal material or onto tissue paper (if your printer will take it), and ..... OK other threads on this method.
  15. It actually turned out far better than I thought. Thanks for the method.
  16. I didn't want your post to go un-noticed. But I have not used color shift paints. When I checked them out, it appeared that the colors shifted in such a way that my details would clash with one of the two shift colors. I decided not to use it, but perhaps, if it was a detail and not the main color???? Let us know if you have any luck with this.
  17. I did not watch the video, but Mr. Hannon was known as a pretty smart feller. The terms attraction and trigger are not new for sure and I do believe that they have a great deal of merit. Larry Dahlberg was known to use the terms frequently on his show "Hunt for Big Fish", and his presence in the Salt Water Hall of Fame, and the Freshwater Hall of fame lend him credence. Still, opinion is opinion and until we can hold a conversation with fish, we will never know. Hillbilly has explained the various attractions and triggers pretty much like I view them. Anecdotal observations on may part are crankbaiting than just bumping cover or bottom and as soon as it clears the obstruction fish hit it, far more often than the straight retrieve. I hate trolling, but have been known to do it. The numbers of times I have had a line in the water and pulled it forward with my rod than let it drift back just to have it hammered are countless. I can't even count the number of times I see fish follow a presentation that won't hit, unless I do something a little different in the retrieve.....sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. On the next fish, if it worked, I repeat, if it did not, I try a different "trigger". If I had to hang my hat on something, I would personally agree that attraction and trigger are different, and important. I also, believe, for the most part, a lure is designed to attract, the fisherman creates the trigger within the limits of the lure. Still, often attraction is all that is necessary. Sometimes attraction and trigger are the same thing.
  18. I have noticed that new airbrush paint, like the gallon cans of paint you buy, will settle over time, but like the commercial cans a good mix will fix it. The bottles at some stores can sit for months, even years and I have some unopened bottles at least 3 years old that are fine. I have noticed that an open container of airbrush paint starts to clump and dry out as soon as it is opened, the timer is on the clock for it. It depends on a lot of factors, but it can take weeks to months. I have also noticed that if I take that opened bottle, and put a little petroleum jelly around the screw on lid, it slows down the drying that I think is causing most of the clumping. I the pop top still allows some drying to take place.
  19. Did LPO answer? I tried to find the WP knock off on LPO and failed.
  20. It does sound like somehow you got moisture in the mix. I played around some time ago with putting a few drops of water into Alumilite White to see how it would work to reduce density and it did exactly what you are talking about now. I love resin but I don't live in a high humidity area. Do you?
  21. Funny, we talk all the time about the dangers of just pouring soft plastics, and now we are talking about using chemicals that make plastisol seem like distilled water. Are people just massively overstating the problems with plastisol, or are we understating the dangers of this process???? I am not sure that MEK and "butanone?" would be even close to safe to use in any enclosed environment. For sure, I would use the best possible respirators if I did use them.
  22. To be honest, with experimentation. None of the hardeners are "bad", but they are different. What one person observes can be 180 degrees different than another observation.
  23. Check out makelure.com. I don't know what head you need, jig head, hard bait head, etc., but.... I make a floating jig by using an expanding foam, making a mold from silicone.
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