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Anglinarcher

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Everything posted by Anglinarcher

  1. Getting the chrome finish is the first problem, but using candy red over the chrome will do the trick. This will get you started, and he has other videos that provide the intermediate clearcoat necessary before the candy red and final clear, otherwise the "chrome" will go grey.
  2. https://www.alumilite.com/resins/microballoons/ This will give you a good guide. I don't agree with the warnings, at least to the extreme they are claiming. Read the Safety Data Sheet yourself and take precautions as necessary. Because I don't know the weight of your hardware, start on the higher side of amount to use.
  3. For small quantities, I have not doubt it would be expensive. The cost of the gold would be not that bad because the thickness of the layer would be sooooo thin. The durability would be very very very very poor. Personally, I would not pay for it. Gold plated blades have a clear coat that protects them, but wire would be impossible at all contact points.
  4. Great responses above, and all true, especially the 100x over. LOL I don't make lures to sale, I make lures to get what I can't get over the counter. For example, in the early 80's I could get a clear 4" curly tail that was heavily loaded with silver flake, very heavy. That soft plastic caught me 100's of fish in Colorado, but ...... it apparently was locally made and the small sports shop I got them from stop selling them. That started a cascade of issues for me. Now I have hundreds of dollars bait making materials, and I have not stopped yet. OUCH!
  5. Sounds right. I have a couple as well from the early 80's I believe.
  6. I don't mean to stir this boiling pot, but I am old enough and fish enough that I have had several lures break in my day. Funny, they were normally the older two piece cheep molded lures or the through wire balsa lures. I have had the OLD wooden lures that had the poor seal coats have screws rust out, and I have had a few Lucky Craft Live Pointers where the "through wire" on the multiple joints broke. But....... Guys, they are lures, not bridges. If a few break, people don't die.
  7. I agree that it was an interesting video, and I think I may try several of my best producing commercially available stick baits in a pool someday myself. I agree also that best is in the mind of the fisherman and that fish often have a different idea. I use several of those baits myself and find that in many cases the best bait in the AM is not the best jerk in the mid day or PM. I just don't experience that one jerk action is "always" better than another. Still, my mind is open to paying more attention to the specifics of the jerk action on a given day.
  8. I find the in-line to be more weed resistant when dragging them over emerging weeds. Other than that, I have seen no difference for the fishing I do.
  9. Hillbilly is soooooo correct. In my area, the 3.8 or even smaller sells best because we use them for trout, and some Walleye and Bass. The 4.8 still wells well because of the Walleye and Bass, but trout is king in the Intermountain West of the US so smaller is often better. When I fished in the South in the US, 4.8 would have been considered the smallest, unless you were fishing them for Crappie. Local markets or National Markets or International Markets, it all depends.
  10. WOW, this is an interesting and strange thread. I have used vinegar to thin household silicone, but never to make a mold. I have used silicone oil to recondition and lengthen the life of Alumilite silicone molds, and that works well. I have added silicone oil to reduce the hardness of some of their silicone mold material when making it, but I am not a fan of doing that. I suspect that each silicone material and supplier requires their own method so any answer we give will be product specific.
  11. You will need to tell us what resin to start off with. The resin I use does not "dry" it cures. If the outside has cured, the inside is cured if well mixed, so...... I expect it is melted resin you are seeing.
  12. Read a lot on it, have not tried it yet. Createx has some info on the different methods, but, let us know how it works.
  13. You are of course correct, she is ALWAYS RIGHT.
  14. I use it a lot as a swimbait for Pre-Spawn Walleye and locally they are used for trout in a lot of our water.
  15. Yes, but before that it was more yellow brown opaque, and ....... Currently, I kind of like the bone River2Sea uses on their hard baits. But the bone on the Rebels from the early 80's ...... I give up. Even if we made a standardized color chart on TU, or own computers would show it differently so what's the point. I don't even try to offer advice on how to make a color shown on the site anymore. I and my wife have the exact same computer, but different settings, so when she was looking at the same photo as I was some time ago, we could not even agree on what the true colors were.
  16. Interesting. I degass some of my molds so that I don't get that problem when I use expanding foams in them, but never considered that any tiny dimple that would go away would be caused by that. I wonder if it because of micro temperature differences due to air pockets close to the surface.
  17. I vote for the scents as a substitute. Bang will work, Dr. Juice works, lots of them work. Years and years ago I poured my own and did not even know about worm oil. LOL Ignorance was bliss in the early 80's. I still have several of those baits and they are fine. I like the fact that most of the scents seem to actually absorb into the plastic if you use them instead of worm oil.....but I prefer the less expensive worm oil.
  18. RTM, you are so crabby, LOL, but also so right. What I like is when bait companies seem to knock off their own color from year to year...... At the sporting goods store I work at we often have the same SKU, same bait by same company, with the same color, but it is not "the same" as the same bait from last year. It does not happen often, but often enough to notice it. I assume that production companies have specific recipes and great notes, but sometimes subtle differences happen. I also wonder if the different colors that come out that are only slightly different from another color are because someone goofed and added something wrong, so they called it a NEW color and sold off the mistakes Sometimes the mistake become the prefered color. Let's all make a mistake today.
  19. Good thread, now if we only had a "standard" color for bone. LOL I was looking at some of my lures from the late 70's that were "bone" and compared various versions of "bone" over the years. Did my 70's discolor or have "bones" changed color over the years.
  20. Ya, if you don't have a chemistry degree, or perhaps a medical degree, SDS sheets will scare you to death. I worked at a USA research facility in the middle 90's and they required "MSDS" for every liquid. Well, I and friends could not resist, so we made our own for water. Everything on it was true, found in high concentrations in cancer cells, found in drownig victims, known as a greenhouse gas, known to impede breathing, ....... The reviewer called me in the office and said that chemical would absolutely not be allowed on the site. I asked him if he read the chemical name carefully (Hydrogen Dioxide) and did he know what the common name was? He arrogantly said yes, so I told him to remove the drinking fountain from all buildings ASAP. By then he realized I had tricked him. He forgave me, eventually. The point is that most of what you read on SDS sheets (the M was dropped a few years ago), is meaningless without the knowledge of how to understand and apply it. Good reads, but common sense and some practical knowledge is often necessary.
  21. Big Epp is correct. The good thing about this site is that it is world wide.....the bad thing is that what I can get, or what you can get, is not always the same.
  22. LOL, I agree. Someday I will get in trouble for using my "cell phone" on company time, but I show swimming action of baits all of the time. When a customer wants to know, and they see it for themselves, that makes a huge difference.
  23. One follow-up on packaging. A bait maker that sells at my store also asks for my opinion and observations. He makes a shaky head style of bait that is totally different, and my testing shows works extremely well. The problem is that the "blade" is crystal clear and you can't even tell in the package that it is a shaky style bait. No one even looks at the bait because they can't tell what it does. I suggested that replacing the clear blade with anything less "invisible" would likely improve sales substantially. His lures work, work great, but ...................... Packaging is important, at least until a new lure's reputation is known.
  24. Ya, like Mark said. I have several different UV lights and they all seem to work the same. It is more a matter of distance from the lure and wattage (closer is better, more wattage is better).
  25. I remember seeing them at a small fishing tackle shop as a kid. They were displayed in a egg carton, one per section. They looked like something out of this world. Of course I could not afford something so "expensive" at the time. I did not understand them at the time and I don't know how the shop got ahold of them, but I did learn enough looking at them to foster a love and desire to make lures myself.
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