Anglinarcher

I have posted on this, and I still love the design, but ....... My calculations say that the flow rate is rather slow. Still, Atlassone's video shows the lure working well, with the exception noted by atlasstone on the other design, turbulence. I suspect that the design is working because of the turbulence, not in spite of it. If the water was flowing laminar, the flow rate may have be only about a quarter of a mile an hour. JBlaze, if you put a sock over the outlet of the pump it will reduce a lot of the turbulence, but not eliminate it. If you then run the water through a stack of straws (YouTube has a lot of videos on creating laminar flow) you can create an almost perfectly laminar flow. Your concept may work well enough, so if you have the time and funds, it is worth a try. I am not trying to be a buzzkill on the subject. I still like the concept and I will be working on this when I can. It appears that I may be moving soon so this is going to kill a lot of my projects for some time. Still, for those that know the math, check my out. For all, I still think that Atlasstone is on the right track!

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/25401-solarez-uv-top-coat/

Not yet, but soon. Before I got my Solarez, I had contacted another company and asked them specifically about this application. I told them that I was a hobby lure maker, not a big guy, so I did not expect them to go out of their way. Nevertheless, they must see potential themselves. They have asked for samples of my lures and they will test several of their UV cure and let me know if they meet the list of requirements I gave them, as well as the UV frequency and strength that performed best. I will be sending the lures off Tuesday. They want completed, ready to clear coat, lures. I will have my airbrush up and producing tomorrow. I don't want to name names yet, just in case they cannot find a suitable product at this time, but if it works, I will let you guys know. In the mean time, I am not seeing any down side to the Solarez.

All of the above. You can buy gold paint in so many different brands, but in the end, if you don't clear coat them, they will not shine like real gold.

Yes, I use it a lot. I like super soft baits most of the time, so I mix about 1 part softner for every 4 parts regular. Like any soft plastic, it benefits from the heat stabilizer when you re-melt/re-cycle. Like any of the Plastisols, shake before use. Not that I am a hobbiest, not a production guy, so I can't tell you how it works in production injection machines.

I cannot even think about anyone bothering to pay anyone to go after you, for just one or two local shops. Now, if you start to sell in Cabelas or Bass Pro, or ....... maybe they will bother you. Will the cost for anyone to pay legal fees to send you a warning letter be worth their effort?

I have a suggestion for you. I suggest you watch the last third of this vido. The applicable parts of this are from minute 6:23 through 8:03. Good luck and good painting.

Amount and size and location varry so much from one class of bait, one shape of bait, and when made of wood one bait to another, that I sure could not give you any formula. I think I know what weights you are using, and they are a good start, but I don't use them. Most of the time I will drill a hole and use #9 lead shot. It takes a larger hole then if you used the solid weights you mention, but it allows more flexibility. One other thing I have done is to make a mold out of Silicone mold putty. Yes, you can pour lead into that mold and get quite a few before it goes bad. I take different sizes of wood dowles and push them into the mold putty to get the depth and width I want. I hope this helps some. I am sure there are others here that have great ideas on this as well.

54, I don't normally disagree with posters, but I would like you to check out the lures in the following link. http://www.river2seausa.com/46-vibration They are not square, some are rounded, etc. I have used these and they "vibrate" quite well. Did I not understand what you said? If so, can you straighten me out? Thanks, AA

Airbrushing soft plastic is, well, almost dangerous. If you do start to do that, make sure you have a proper hazardous chemicals mask, good air supply, etc., etc. Get an MSDS first and read it carefully on all paints. As for your pour, very nice job. I am quite sure they will work very well.

Larry Dahlberg has created one made by River2Sea called the Wide Glide. I got a couple of their smaller ones and use them for Brown Trout, yes in lakes, fresh water, inland, Pacific Northwest. The subsurface glide baits work very well for bass. I am working on a smaller version myself, but I have got so many lures "in the works" that I either need to do this for real or back off so I can keep my "hobby" status. I really feel that a subsurface long glide from side to side is one of the most over looked action to date. JMHO

Wow, a tough question. 1) I will cheat and say the first attempt should be to copy an existing bait, maybe a couple different styles, to learn a bit about them. That is the short answer. 2) The next attempt to answer your question is that what your are asking is how do the vortexs differ. That can take years of study, or ........ check out the benchtop test tank option. This would allow you to test different shapes quickly. It is what I plan on adding to my man cave soon. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/25915-benchtop-test-tank/ 3) My last attempt to answer your question is to say I prefer an almost flat leading face, but you will need to adjust the face angle, the line tie location, etc. On a new design, it can take a long time to get it right. See # 1 above. As for surface, subsurface, etc. Too little ballest will allow the lure to wash out or lay on the side at the surface. Usually on a vibration bait I like more weight, it is easier to stabalize. Still, less weight, perfectly placed (trial and error), can give you an awsome wake bait. The toughest part of any new lure build is to figure out how shapes impact action, looks, vibration, etc. A flat face acts more like a rigid parachute or disk in a fluid while a round face acts more like vortex shedding around a cyl. In reality, both work, just differently. There is no right answer. Now, everyone else, HELP. I am probably as clear as mud on this.

BobP is correct. They call this a weight transfer system. Some baits use magnets instead of the hump, but it is all the same concept.

atlasstone, do I understand correctly that with this design as given you have three inches in width for the lure to work?

LOL - I have a 30 gallon long tank that I got last year, at a yard sale, for just $5. It came with 2 air pumps which I am sure will work for my future fluid bed, it came with a water pump for the undergravel filter which might work for other projects, it came with ........ Better check out those yard sales.

Yes, your point is well taken. That is why I asked questions of this site to begin with. I wish I knew the answer to this one myself.

I am not sure that anyone can answer that for your lures. Word has it that it is as hard as D2T, but less brittle. My joints hold up just fine with ETec, but the lures show hook rash. Can't wait for my goop to show up now to try it myself.

LOL, I have spent hours looking into laminar flow systems and you solve the problem in no time at all. GREAT WORK, AND WHERE WERE YOU A YEAR AGO?

Hey guys and gals, I think WalMart has been watching our thread. I have not tried it (have a nail dryer being delivered this week), but last night I saw that they had a new light fixture, with black light bulb, for only $10.97. It is a 24", 17 watt unit. I can see making a much larger,or much smaller, cure box with this.

I don't think it is server overload; it appears to me to be server failure. This is nasty for sure, and I would kill for only 20 or 30 second delay. If a membership is required, so be it, but then the problem MUST be fixed. I find that the site is slow 24/7 right now. If it was overload, should there not be at least some good times. I don't sleep well so I am often surfing day and night. Not a happy camper right now.

On the web site for Solarez, they have a video that talks about using the material so that it cures before it can soak into the wood, unlike slower cure products. They say apply a thin coat and quick cure, then apply a second coat. http://www.solarez.com/uses/surfboards.html

No one has reported any yet. In fact, Solarez blocks out the UV ranges they feel causes yellowing.

Mike, that is a good point of course. UV additives are used to make whites brighteners to our eyes, but this is because adding blues and violets to other colors cause our eyes to see more white to them. It is an additive property of light waves. Nevertheless, if this is the purpose of adding the UV, then I can buy into it. Kajan, your point is also well taken. I have caught a lot of freshwater fish with glowing lures, but more often as not at depth during the day, not at night. I had one glow in the dark that I used for Walleye about 25 years ago. I fished it hard at night and never even got a bump, but in the day it worked pretty well. Still, I have indeed caught trout and steelhead at night on lighted or glowing lures. With the exception of Steelhead, I think the key is to keep the glow pretty subtle. For example, I found that painting the head of a streamer fly with a glow in the dark nail polish worked great for trout behind a dam, but using a glow body was useless. Jeff, what UV does is to "excite" or cause fluorescent colors to glow. This is what you saw with the Black Light. In a lake or stream at depths, some UV makes it to extreme depths even after other light is blocked. For example, in all but the clearest lakes, the color red is gone in 10' or less. After that time, it looks more like Black then anything else. Muddy water blocks colors much faster. Orange, then yellow, then green, then blue, and finally Violet is filtered out next. Finally UV will get filtered out; this is the end of what Scientists call the Photic Zone of a body of water. Because most fish feed with their eyes, they are more likely to strike what they can see in low light conditions. Take fluorescent colors outside at night and compare them with the non-fluorescent equivalent. You will see that the fluorescent colors show much later at night. This is because any ambient light will cause fluorescent colors to fluoresce. We already know that fish see light much better than we do (much lower light equivalents) so there is a benefit to having fluorescent colors in lures for low light conditions (muddy, stained, night, etc.). Still, the colors white and black are not actually colors at all. White is a combination of all colors (the reason UV brightens it) and black is an absence of color (all color is absorbed). Nevertheless, we see them as colors and so do the fish. As a result, for every rule there is an exception to it. Oh the joy of color.

I tried using a food saver and during a hot summer day it actually worked with some RTV. During normal temperatures, it failed. How much negative pressure are you pulling on this "pickle jar"? Can you post a pic?

Sorry, just wanted to post a warning. I did some research and I wanted to point out that the reference to a GE 18' (F15T8) bulb is only part of the equation. This means it is a bulb made by GE, it is 18" long, it is 15 watts and uses a two pin fixture, and it takes T8 bulbs. Unfortunately, there are more then one bulb that fit this description. There are CW or cool white bulbs that fit this. There are SW or soft white bulbs for this. I believe you need to make sure you use the Black Light version of this, but check with biggamefish or Bass100 or others that have suggested this for confirmation. I am still undeceided at this time, but if it works, I can see a pretty good cure box being made with them.