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stephen

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  1. I am looking for scents for my soft plastics, specifically saltwater salmon, saltwater shrimp and freshwater trout. There is a company called "ProCure" which has a lot of what I'm after. Can I put these in my soft plastics? Are there ingredients I should look out for that may react to the plastic, Will any scent work? I understand depending on the color of some of these scents my affect the outcome of the color of the bait. Does anybody have a recommendation for these scents? I recently discovered the fish I'm after have a sweet spot for the above mentioned cut baits. Figured I'd experiment.....Thanks
  2. Ok granted I'm new to this but I can offer some help. I tried craft glitter from hobby lobby in one of my pours. The glitter used was a very fine and grainy in texture (like sand) When the plastic dried It was clear the glitter was too small to have an affect on the lure. It did withstand the heat but too small. Next I read somewhere else that flashabou ( the stringy stuff you find at the fly shop) was rumored to work. I picked some up, started cutting off about 3/8" from the end until I thought I had enough. It withstood the head and looks awesome in ultra clear baits. I haven't tried it in colored baits yet.....My 02C.....good luck
  3. Thank you all for responding, I was initially afraid that the topic and question would be simply ignorance on my part but all the responses made me think a lot and develop new ideas. I have just started pouring in my first mold so my plan is to experiment extensively with different textures of plastic, hook sizes, weights, etc until I have success with this lure. It is a re-creation from a manufacture that stopped making them and selling them over 7 yrs ago. The original used to work on hybrid bass very well, and if any of you have ever fished for hybrids they are the most unpredictable fish to target. When they are hungry they will strike a bare hook, when they aren't, it takes a very special presentation and lure to get them to commit. Yes I plan on making several with eyes, and several without and log what takes place, if anything.......Thanks again...
  4. So most would agree that as I / we all continue this addictive hobby, as we cut a little here, tweak there, that in the grand scheme of things action should take fore front over appearance? You get the action you want and then add eyes, color or airbrush? Is this how you experienced lure makers go about it.......
  5. Just had a thought on the way home tonight since I'm obsessed with making lures now...Looking through bass pro and other catalogs it seems that most of the successful soft plastic jerkbaits out there are without eyes..I know that its our own personal preference and level of confidence of whether or not eyes make a difference. I (as most of you) have fished the zoom super fluke for years with plenty of success and never questioned (until now) if it needed something else, or if adding eyes would improve strikes. Is it that the zoom fluke is such a perfect design in the water that it doesn't need any more flare to it. I think as I make more baits I will add eyes to some and not others (of the same color) and come up with my own conclusion. Just wanted to see what others thought.......
  6. Being new to this I starete using "zap a gap" and holy cow it sets the standard for superglue. I install them after the plastic has cooled and before oiling....Im impressed. You might find it at a local fly shop...as they use it on flys and knots.
  7. Well long story short it worked. The 22 shell was not long enough and I kept getting an air pocket half way up. So I called a friend and he had a telescoping metal automotive magnet that was broken. I cut off about 3 inches of the metal tubing, attached it to the syringe so when I poured the bait I was injecting better than half way down, continued injecting while slowly pulling the syringe out and I knew I pretty much had it when I saw plastic coming out of all the air vents. Pulled the mold apart and success, God bless America. Vodkaman educate me. The commercial injectors, are they designed to draw the plastic through the tip, or do you fill them from the back end?????
  8. I have a 99% success rate in the category of "anything can go wrong" If I'm not mistaken I led the league last year in "Oh crap's" Thanks for the help will let you know.....
  9. Its a forked tail, i already have two vents, each about the diameter of a toothpick, I pour from the tip of the nose down, I created an air vent right by the pour spout where I later attach the eyes ( I can cut the remaining plastic off). So make the air vents larger?. I just came up with an idea, tell me what you think. I took a 22magnum shell and drilled out the back end leaving the rim. cut off the small plastic hole from the syringe and jb welded the casing to the tip of the syringe. Now maybe the hole spout is large enough I can draw the hot plastic into the syringe limiting air bubbles??????
  10. Ok so my 2 part mold turned out near perfect, its the first one I have ever made so I am contributing that to beginner luck. I read a little on this site where you guys are using a turkey injector to install the soft plastic, got one. The only way I can get a perfect pour is to fill the back end of the injector, install the push rod, flip it upright, push all the air out, then inject. I quickly realized you have to do this lightning fast in order for the plastic not to clog up the hole. I have tried numerous times to simply pour the plastic. I have opened up the pour hole in the rtv as large as i can 1.5" on the outside and the pour hole to the mold is as large as i can go (about the size of a pea) I have cut an air vent next to the pour hole which seems to work fine. Part of the problem (I think) is the bait is so long 5.5", when i "pour" the bait and open up the mold it doesn't get all the way to the tips of the tail. Injecting is the way to go. Is there a trick to getting the air out of the cylinder? Do i need to order a custom injector, I tried to pull the material through the tip like you would fill up a hypodermic needle but it just clogged the spout and ruined my timing..........Help......thanks
  11. So I have my hard plastic master ready for molding. I was at a fly shop yesterday and noticed that they have metal barbell eyes that you can place a sticker type eye on. I was wondering if anybody uses this set up. Being that my master is hard plastic all i have to do is take a dremmel tool and groove a vee on both sides. when the plastic is cool punch a hole through the center and install it. searched this site and didn't see any info on barbell eyes....Several years ago Cabelas made a soft plastic jerkbait with barbell eyes. the eye itself looks like the sticker type you can find anywhere it is attached with a straight (not vee cupped) shaft to the back of the other eye....anybody know what I'm talking about...know where to get them.....thanks
  12. Ok so I am brand new to this and am taking my time and learning.. I used alumalite rtv to make a mold of a soft plastic jerk bait. I used alumalite 2 part plastic, poured into mold to create a hard plastic master. I have sanded, scraped, filled, painted and clear coated the master. Now my intention is to make a 2 part mold by using 1/2 molding putty, poured over with rtv, remove molding putty, use release, pour other 1/2 with rtv. I will need a pour spout which i have decided will be at the very nose of the bait. So to avoid air pockets should I create (in the mold) two air ports at the tips of the tail, pour the soft plastic from the nose down until the material comes out of the other end of the mold at the tail. Will that help avoid air pockets and ensure the material is working its way to the end of the bait? I am coming up on all the technicalities I know very little about, I will continue searching past posts to educate myself. Any advise will be appreciated.....thanks
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