Grisley

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About Grisley

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    New Orleans
  1. Baby Bass Plopper

    Thanks. I appreciate the words of encouragement.
  2. SolarEz... Am I missing something?

    I use alcohol markers a lot with the Copic airbrush system. I also use a traditional airbrush with acrylic paints. When I use the copic markers to airbrush, I do a very light coat of Krylon clear after every color change. When I say a light coat, I mean a light dusting of clear from about 10-12" away from the lure. This dries almost immediately and sets the alcohol ink so that you can proceed with the next color. Some of the copic colors do not dry very quickly, but a light dusting of Krylon clear helps those colors to flash off. If you apply the Krylon in too heavy of a coat, then the colors will run. After I finish painting the lure, I do one more light coat of the Krylon clear, follows by a wet coat of Pledge Floor Care Finish through my traditional airbrush. This is basically just a clear water based acrylic. I then heat set the Pledge with a heat gun until I am certain that I have it completely dry. This protects the paint job from the solvents in the final epoxy/clear coat. The last step is to apply the final clear coat. Sometimes I use Alumi-UV and sometimes I use Devon 2T 30min epoxy. I have never had any problems with my alcohol markers running using this method. I hope this helps.
  3. Holographic fish scales

    Probably won't work as well over the rounded tops of the wider bodied lures like larger square-bills, due to the greater radius on that style of lure. But on the lures pictured in the original post, it looks like the scales are mostly on the flatter surfaces. The stuff is pretty forgiving though. It stretches a pretty good amount and it is fairly easy to stretch it almost to the top center line on each side most baits using 2 pieces, one on each side of the lure. I have done it successfully on lipless cranks and also some Sammy topwater baits.
  4. Holographic fish scales

    I still think that everyone is overthinking this. Why not just use the holographic scale tapes that are made for lures. You can get them by the roll on eBay, or you can buy smaller quantities from Barlow's Tackle. I have even purchased small sheets from Cabelas once or twice, though they were extremely marked up in price. They have a few different styles/colors. It is holographic scale shapes that are printed on a transparent and flexible film. I have been using the stuff for years and it is very easy to work with and thin enough to hide the seems with a single layer of epoxy clear coat. I think using this stuff is alot cheaper than buying a vinyl plotter and alot quicker than using masking fluid. The first picture that I posted seems to be the exact product that was used on the lures that the OP posted. Here's a link: https://www.barlowstackle.com/Lure-Tape-Die-CutbrHolographic-Dot-Pattern-P989.aspx
  5. Jackall Giron Swimbait

    Thanks for the info. Again, great looking baits.
  6. Jackall Giron Swimbait

    What type of clear coat did you use. Looks like MCU, but I want to be sure. I have been using automotive clear on my jointed baits, but I want to see if MCU is better.
  7. Rat Pattern

    How did you do that? The fur looks incredible. Please share your technique. Great work!
  8. Bold Bluegill Crank

  9. Baby Bass Swimbait

  10. Bad 2 The Bone Sammy Topwater

  11. Wine Shad Sammy

  12. Baby Bass Plopper

  13. Bass Tiger Buzzjet

  14. Bass Tiger Buzzjet

  15. I lightly wipe the ABS portion with acetone. After that, I just use Flat White Krylon Fusion as a base coat/primer on the body and the tail. I allow it to cure for the full 24 hrs. After the 24 hrs, it is very well bonded to the ABS and the soft tail. I can't even scrape it off with my finger nail when I try. I then paint as normal and I use D2T as a clear coat on the body and a few light coats of Rustoleum Automotive enamel on the tail. The auto enamel flexes pretty well with the tail.