jeffhill

I sent you a pm.

Anyone remember the pink powder lc used to sell? It had blue undertones to it. I use it pretty regularly and they no longer carry it. If anyone has some they’re willing to part with or knows where I can get some it would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I sent you a pm. I may be able to help depending on the volume.

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I'll check it out.

What do all you crappie guys use for chartreuse colorant? I've got a few crappie molds now and my m-f green chartreuse with white isn't bright enough. It needs to be non bleed for laminates.

I used saket the last time I ordered. Very good quality and inexpensive.

If you need to keep your molds cooler, try adding molds of a similar size that aren't being used in between molds you are shooting. They act as a heat sink. I also have a furnace blower (squirrel cage) mounted to one of my benches. If my molds get too hot, I'll get the blower after them. It doesn't take long to cool molds off with that much airflow.

I've retrofitted my bears shooting star system with pid controllers. We mounted the thermocouple directly in the bottom center of the pot. The temp control is much better than the factory presto pot controllers.

I pour a lot of line-thrus for a west coast company. We use ribbed nickel plated lead inserts in ours. I don't have any trouble with them pulling out or turning the plastic colors.

I talked to Sarah a while back on cutting a 4 cavity that they didn't show on the site. Within 5 minutes, she confirmed that they could cut it in a 4 cavity and shipped it out two days later. Great customer service.

I have the Basstackle 6" flippin hog. It's a pretty close copy of the original.

Bears has a good scuppernong dye.M-F has a good color changing motor oil dye called changeable motor oil.

Lurecraft black grape is the ONLY purple I'll use.

It should work with both. The effect is just easier to get with a larger mold. I'd try the stick mold first. There is a little bit of a learning curve but you'll figure it out pretty quick.

Remove the top cross bar that locks your injectors together. While injecting, move back and forth pulsing one injector and then the next. Keep doing this until the mold is full. This will create a swirl pattern. It works best in large volume molds (big baits or multi cavity)

If you're going to make different color body parts, (claws, tails, etc.) you'll need to use a mold for that particular part or shoot the mold in the part color of choice. Then remove, cut off whatever piece you want to use and reinsert it in the mold. It is best to do this shortly after making the piece. Soft plastic will exude oil over time keeping it from making a good bond with the main color. If you cant do it right away, cut the plastic back 1/8" or so before shooting to help it bond. Also, it works best to have your plastic at a pretty high temp (330 to 350) when injecting the main color. The hotter plastic will bond better with the tail. I hope that makes sense!!!

Green pumpkin mixed with a medium green works pretty well. I suppose a touch of brown mixed with a bright green would work, too.

Funny how everyone has different experiences. I've had no issues with consistency at all. I may try some of the lure works stuff when I get close to running out. Is lure works pthlate free?

Also, I have a contact number for the customer service rep. If anyone needs it, shoot me a pm.

I buy it directly from Chemionics. I've been through 3 drums now and I prefer it over anything else I've used.

Aluminum.

I have 1 set of open pour swimbait molds that started sticking to the baits all at once. I have 4 different sets of molds and this is the only one that does it. I have poured several thousand baits in these molds with no problems. Has anyone had this issue before? Thanks in advance.

Chemionics