ReelAppealLures

I don't have an electronics background, I am lucky to work with people who can tell me what I need and how to do it. Never heard of it, but I just did a Google search. It seems like a simple version of a PLC, the guys at work use a software called RSLogix5000 by Rockwell Automation, but this pretty serious stuff and pricey. I asked an electrician at work if I needed a PLC but he said I can do everything I want with relays and it will be much simpler for fault finding etc. or replacing components. What ever I do with the electrical side I will post up how I did it.

Working on a chuck using SketchUp for feeding a long timber blank into instead of separate pieces. Hmmm I need a big bearing! and a bigger work bench...

Thanks for the replies, Great idea using Phillips head bits! This will save hours of labour making something that is pretty much the same. As for the electronics side of things I'm pretty lucky in this respect, I work in a highly automated sawmill/planer mill; so access to any gizmo is very easy and there is Systems Engineers and Shift Electricians who know how to make any piece of kit do anything. The power supply came from a redundant project where we were using a Co2 laser to apply a # code so it can be tracked throughout the process. The laser would print a 4 digit number on the board at a belt speed of around 400-450mpm. I like the idea of drilling the UHMWPE and offsetting, much like a quick release vice! I was going to try and track down a proper lead screw, what I have found so far is pricey and being a hack this is out of my scope. I really like the extruded aluminium, I nearly secured a whole lot at work from an optimiser built in Europe (they love this aluminium stuff) but one engineer realised what it's worth and stubbed that out! It would be easier to work with however, tapping and drilling holes, cutting... Plus we have all the nuts and bolts that fit in the slots at work. I will try and track some down for the final build. Can't help thinking how many baits I could have just made rather than messing with this...

Update, I have found a power supply and various other electrical components, just need to source some relays and limit switches; and some circuit breakers. The electrical side will be basic, - Push button to start cycle - Table will traverse, hit limit switch and traverse back contacting a limit that will stop the cycle. Can any one see any trouble if the cutter (biscuit jointer blade) passes back over the already cut surface? Otherwise I will need a pneumatic actuator and trigger this to lift the cutter for the return pass... I can't see any problem, as it will be tracing off the master. I'm looking at using wiper motors, they seem pretty damn reliable and are cheap enough. My power supply is either 240v/110v to 12vdc so it will work out great with wiper motors off a car. At this stage I'm wishing I had a metal lathe, the wooden prototype is O.K. but I feel a more solidly built machine from steel or aluminium would be far nicer. I'm leaning towards a steel build for ease of welding etc. I need to figure out how I will secure the blank, any ideas? Also would be interested in a chuck I could feed a long timber blank through, this would be ideal! Where would I look for that?

I'll get some images of what I have been working on, building the proto out of wood to iron out the bugs. Any updates from the above posts? Still have all your digits?

I run what is called a "baker rig" on some of my baits... I like to fish single hooks. This gives a little more hook exposure with all the benefits of a single hook...They are taped together and will pull apart when hooked up. Granted I don't fish for bass etc mostly large pelagics... Maybe you could try a larger hook? I like them big so when they inhale a lure you have a good chance of a hook finding home. These are R2S Shoguns but you should be able to get small in-line hooks for bass?

Scott, That is sick... Where did you get your servo's and lineal bearings etc from? I am still toying with the idea of making a non-concentric bait duplicator but lack a quality supply of odds and ends!

Have you tried "Saltys"? Scott should have something for them to chew on.

You could always use "inlines"... I make a lot of lures that swim single hooks. These are for lures that don't have the hangers lined up for singles, saves you having to run two split rings. These are dedicated hooks for lures so they are your best option.

Yep use syringes... It is accurate and easy, mix it well and scrape the sides, flat bottom mixing cup all the basics. You don't need to worry about bubbles if you have a propane torch, the CO2 breaks the surface tension of the epoxy and lets the bubbles escape ( it is not the heat ) . Hair dryers blow dust etc onto your lure where the torch will burn it before reaching the lure .

I went out and bought Brite-Bak tape after seeing how many people use it on here, but like you say it is no thinner than a/c tape, and it is more expensive and in smaller sized rolls. I epoxy over my foil before paint, but I no longer try and hide the foil edges, I use them for the overall design. I sent the lure out for testing on a local charter boat, the fish don't mind the foil edges!

Nice baits guys.... I have only attempted one bait so far with the Jone's Tone's foil... I was quite impressed by the finish for a first attempt. I used ADOS F2 adhesive, no issues with it. I added Mackerel stripes over the top, but it went on well. This photo has no epoxy over the foil, so it looks duller than what it is. I still prefer aluminum foil on my baits though...

Casting at Stripers? I would go for the Owner range in either ST-66 or ST-76... They are a little more pricey than your average hook but you pay for what you get, they won't let you down and are big enough for your lures giving you good hook projection.

I presume you will be targeting inshore/offshore pelagics with these hooks? What amount of drag will anglers who use your lures be fishing? I have guys fishing huge drags and most hooks can't handle it... ( 40lb + + + of drag ) Owner ST-66 in 5/0 Owner ST-76 in 5/0 (The Owner range is larger than a typical 5/0 say from Mustad.) Also available in barbless . Fisherman KG120 - 6/0 ( Strong hook, good for 120kg ) Decoy Y-W77 6/0-8/0 Gamakatsu GT Recorder 5/0 - 8/0 ( In the 8/0 size you will get 7 hooks for $64.95 ) Have you thought about using singles or inline singles on your lures? The Owner JOBU Big game hook is a great single and available up to 12/0...