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J. Pierce

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J. Pierce last won the day on May 24

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About J. Pierce

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    Wisconsin
  1. Thanks for the link, I'll check it out! I knew somebody else must have been doing it before me. That yellow one I could shorten up for sure. The orange barred one is deceiving in the photo, if I drop any of the beads the blade could get fouled up in the skirt. A rainstorm hit here so I didn't get out to test them yet. I haven't made enough spinners to be able to tell if they are going to work decent or not. I kind of have a system down for my other spinners that seems to balance out nice and give me instant low speed start on the spin, but these.... I dunno yet. I'm still learning.
  2. I've never used rubber or silicone before, so I ordered a little last time I got some other components to mess around with. I threw out my first couple attempts, these two didn't turn out as bad. I ordered the wrong beads by accident too so that's all I had on had for light beads to get the bladed up snd away from the skirts. These have not been tested yet, so they are only posers at the moment. I'm not sure how these long buggers will perform. I've never moved my blades that far from the bodies before. I see a lot of jigs and spinner baits with rubber or silicone, but I haven't seen spinners or dressed trebles. Maybe there is reason I haven't seen them, I'll find out after testing. Or maybe I just haven't been paying attention. My attachment on the orange one is a bit sketchy, I just banded the tabs on a bullet body. But I saw some different bodies that I think will work better if I decide to do more. I thought the skirts might work well when fishing slower this fall. Anybody experimented with this, have any wisdom or photos to share, that would be great.
  3. I know this is an older thread, but if you haven't found anything yet https://worthco.com/ has packaging solutions for lures, but you have to buy bulk. Actually they have lots of components if you are prepared to buy in larger quantities. Good quality stuff too.
  4. I spent the last couple days on the water and I had a chance to fool with my spoons a bit. Casting was not an issue, I didn't notice any tumble effect. But the action was pretty dead and unimpressive. My parallel sides make is like dragging a flat slab through the water, because well.......... I was in fact dragging a flat slab through the water........ Looks like revision two is in order. Or most likely next time I order some other lure making supplies I'll just get a handful of blanks. It was still a fun way to spend some time in the shop when the weather was crappy, but now it's nice out again, so I'm going fishing. When the weather goes to hell again I'll dream up some other foolishness to try or maybe I will take a stab at Kastmaster Revision 2? I am kinda curious what effect varying tapers would have on the action...............
  5. I've never handled a Kastmaster, so I was just going off of a couple pictures I saw. I thought mine were close to the real thing, but it doesn't sound like it now. The shape you mentioned really makes sense and probably would give better action than mine. I might have to break down and shell out the 3 bucks for the real deal so I can compare the two.
  6. I've never seen a real live Kastmaster, so mine might be different, but these are symmetrical. Both ends are the same. I had a chunk of 1/2" brass rod, but when I grabbed it out of the drawer I remember that I had used it as a drift punch and it was bent and beat up pretty bad. So that's how I ended up with steel. I don't doubt the steel will change the action. I still haven't weighed these yet, but they are pretty damn heavy compared to what I would usually be throwing around. I also considered trying a lighter weight version with a piece of cast acrylic rod, but I didn't have any. I do have a little Delrin, but I have other uses for that so I didn't want to waste it.
  7. Thanks! Hopefully I can get out of work early enough one night this week to test them out and see if they are worth painting or not. I still have no idea what kind of paint job to put on them. I've been half tempted to buff them and just paint an eye on them and spray a clear coat. And see if it holds up well enough to keep 'em from rusting long enough for me to lose them.
  8. I've been a member here for a while, but I've been just sitting back watching and learning. I've been making mostly inline spinners for a few years now. But I tried something new to me today, and I thought I'd share what I've done so far. I'm not the first one to do this, but I haven't seen them on here yet. Since I was a kid I've seen Kastmaster spoons, but I've never used one. Today I decided I wanted to try some. But I'm not made of money, so instead of spending 6 or 7 bucks to buy a couple, I decided to buy thousands of dollars worth of metal working machines and twice that amount again in tooling. Thanks to some sketchy fixturing and a little luck, I now own two homemade slab spoons. I'll test them and see how the action and weight is. If everything is good I'll pick up a couple hundred bucks worth of paint and supplies and pretty them up a bit. So for a few thousand bucks a piece I got what I hope are some nice spoons for deep water and windy days. If anybody else has made something similar I'd sure like to see what you did or what your finishing scheme looks like. Raw steel slab spoons. A sketchy setup to saw off a couple bias cut slabs. A scrap of steel 1/2" round bar set at a 14 degree angle. I had so much bar projecting out of my collet block that it was vibrating and didn't cut super smooth, so I cleaned them up a bit on the belt grinder.
  9. This is only a theory, unless I'm correct. I think the addition of large amounts of glitter to his epoxy is acting like air entrainment sort of. Its decreasing the over all specific gravity of the Devon. Let's face the cold hard facts here, I have no idea what im talking about, but it sounds logical.
  10. I've been to busy to try painting yet, but all this great info is getting me fired up. The clear coat suggestion sound like it could open up a bunch of possibilities.
  11. Thanks, I was thinking the testors paints were enamels not lacquer.
  12. I should have been more clear in my original post. I was looking at using lacquer paints only, not as a topcoat. I have been looking at polytranspar and other taxidermy lacquers. I'm starting to see an advantage to createx type paints. They are available in small quantities. I could see myself experimenting with paints and buying five gallons to paint two three inch poppers....lol
  13. Hey guys I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. I've been lurking here for months and it i thought it looked like a great community of helpful people, and you have proven that! I am a custom furniture maker by trade so I deal with toxic finishes on a daily basis so squirting a little extra lacquer on a Sunday to paint a couple baits is not an issue for me personally. The taxidermy lacquers are exactly what I was thinking about ordering, but I may order some water based airbrush paints to experiment with as well. The suggestion to do some samples and test durability over time is a great idea too. I doubt I will ever get around to doing some of the highly detailed realistic paint jobs I see some of you guys doing. For now I will be happy to make a few utilitarian baits. I have made tons of things out of wood over the years. Pretty soon I will be able to add baits to my done it list. Thanks again, this site and all you guys have been a huge source of useful information.
  14. I have been reading and learning a lot here, but I still have not made any baits yet. I have a couple of airbrushes laying around and a whole shop full of tools. The only thing I need to get on hand is paint. It seems Createx has the biggest following, but I keep thinking about using lacquers. I'm not concerned about odor, I have the facilities to spray in. I like the lacquer paint because I think it would cure faster. Am I leaning the wrong way? I know it's a loaded question and everyone has their own favorites, but I would like to hear your opinions. Thanks
  15. I have not used this product but if I had to I would guess it needs to be thinned with xylene (sp?)
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