SNOWMAN CUSTOM BAITS
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Posts posted by SNOWMAN CUSTOM BAITS
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I have not tried to paint one . I use wildlife creations lacquer paint and it looks just like the simmering green I have . I have the shimmering blue green and it's not that . I have the redeye shad in that color , I don't know if the regular crankbaits are the same color .
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Looks like a light brown scales over white then covered in shimmering green to me .
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It depends on what you want your week point to be, some like light wire hooks so they will straighten out if it gets hung . If you use a smaller swivel the swivel will break when hung . I use heavy wire hooks and a #9 swivel the only time I've been hung and couldn't get it loose the swivel came apart and I got my rig back
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Yea mine were store bought so they were only off a little . I have only built two hand made cranks the first was out of balsa and I didn't know to add weight to the belly ! It runs strait has a good wobble dives about 5 feet and almost jumps out of the water when I stop reeling and it backs up like a champ . The second I added a belly weight hook hanger and it runs pretty good . I am ready to start building a few more and I'm sure this good luck won't hold out .Snowman I can see how a feather trailer would slow the action enough to bring a border line bait back under control. Some use curly tail grubs to do this as well. Like the tail streamer on a kite. Something to keep in mind and try first next time. Thanks.
The first one of these blowout baits I made i kept trimming the bib till nothing was left before I realized the bib itself was not the problem but its placement in relation to the center gravity was. Even with a very very short bib this bait would lay on it's side after a couple of wobbles
This bait was in bad shape. I put all the ballast just below bib on this one for reasons unknown to me now. Turns out a really bad idea.
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I bought some baits from Jann's and painted them before testing . Some would blow out as you call it , I put a feather dressed treble on the back and it fixed it .
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I have a hard enuff time powder painting a shakey head and making it look smooth much less doing something like this . How about putting a light coat of whatever color you want the scales to be on after you pull off the netting then lightly sand until you can see the raised part of the first color then cure . Lot of hand work and I don't know if it will work but just a thought I had while read this post
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I have been doing this for the last few years . I use a 10 to 12 foot crankbait and long Line it to get it down to 20 to 23 feet . The shad in some lakes around hear are very small and smaller crankbait seems to catch them better than a big 20+ crankbait
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here is the bone bait I painted
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Wildlife creations lacquer with automotive clear top coat
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I did my first bone bait yesterday I added a little yellow to white it looked a little to yellow till I cleared the bait now it looks just like the bone color on the spooks I love so much
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Mark you might try putting some worm oil or some other cover scent or attractant on the hook before you thread the plastics on . Don't know if it will work , just a thought .
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Mark I can't help you with that one I never fish salt water . I know when people hunt ducks close to saltwater with shotguns they tell you to make sure to wipe your gun down with oil when you get home so it won't rust from the salt spray . I know even a blued gun will rust if you don't keep it oiled . Sorry I can't be any more help
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It's not a crankbait its a small bait like swim jig with a fluke type trailor . The hook is made in the bait . It's a single size 1 or 1/0 hook .
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If I take all the ones back with dull hooks I wouldnt have any to fish with . I only buy a few at a time and they are cheap under $5 bucks each so it's not that big of a deal . I did over sharpen the first one trying to do it with a file that's why I was looking for a nother sharpener to replace the one I lost . I caught a 8lb 12 oz largemouth earlier this year on this bait and the one I lost was in the low teens so that is a fish of a lifetime to me . Thanks to all you guys for the help .So Snowman you can only do a "visual" test at the store. But even if in a blister pack, at home, or in the parking lot, you can test sharpness and if super dull take all the bad ones back? So it sounds like your lure vendor has a hook supplier with a chrome plating process problem. And unless you have a big volume of hook point re-filing work the EZE LAP + bluing should work.
I use vastly different hooks than you or BobP and have to visually test each hook, sharpen each hook, non-destructively test hooks for sharpness, destructively test hooks for strength, and blue each hook for durability. Since most all my lures are hook-embedded and not hook replaceable, with the EZE Lap, I have to be especially vigilant against over-sharpening all points and micro-barb strength reduction. Agreeing with BobP, I also want to eliminate all gotchas, big or little, when targeting fish that fall in three categories; "Big" fish, "Lunker" size fish, and "Fish of a Lifetime."
Good luck.
John
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yes bob those are the same trebles I use . I agree I use as quality a product as I can afford and try to eliminate problems before they happen . I want the only weekness in my fishing to be me.I use Gamakatsu round bends and Mustad KVD short shanks. Honestly, I'm not gonna touch up the trebles on every crankbait and if it's a Gamakatsu, I rarely if ever need to. If a bait comes with poor trebles, I change them right out of the package. It's more than just the sharpness. You can make a poor hook razor sharp with a diamond hone but the point may quickly dull or bend over and fail to penetrate, or the hook may bend out because it's poorly tempered. I just want to eliminate as many of those little "Gotchas" as possible.
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Bassrecord I check the hooks before I buy the baits . They are in blister packs so you can't open them up , but you can look and see the point on some baits are dull and some have the chrome plating balled up on the point . The hooks are not stainless they are chrome plated steel , and when I sharpen them they do rust . I had not thought about the gun bluing that's a good idea . I do some gun smithing on the side so I have some bluing thanks for the tip .
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That's the one I had , EZE LAP . I couldn't remember the name . I did a google search when I first started useing these baits and couldn't find one like this , but I knew you guys would come through .
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I need a new hook sharpener I used to have one shaped like a chainsaw file with a grove in one side made out of diamond dust , but I lost it and can't find another . I googeled hook sharpener but didn't find anything I liked . I lost the fish of lifetime yesterday because a dull hook ! These are store bought baits with very cheap hooks that you can't change and I don't think I can make . So I turn to the experts for help .
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I use team all star crankbait rods . I use 7'11" med action for deep crankin and can cast a mile . 7'2" med hvy for ripping a rattle trap out of the grass . I have 2 7' med action rods I use for shallow crankin and for square bills . These are graphite rods and are very light and sensitive . I am a poor boy and can't afford those high dollar rods these guys use .
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Thanks guys for the tips.
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I have only built two balsa crankbaits . I used screw in eyes for the line tie and to hold the hooks , didn't know about the belly weights at the time . I see most of you use twisted wire for line ties and hook hangers are they better than the screw in eyes ? I learned how to make the twisted wire eyes from this sight (thanks) so that is not a problem if they are better . I super glued the screw in eyes in place . Thought I would ask the experts witch were better .
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I have a HF and it is a POS !! Lots of run out and the depth stop is junk . I have a old delta it also has a lot of run out . I would try a craftsman if I were to buy a new one
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I had the same thing happen to me first order was short , emailed and got the rest of my order less than a week later . Seems like a good guy.
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Yea it's hard to find chartreuse and such in the taxadermist paints .I should have been more clear in my original post.
I was looking at using lacquer paints only, not as a topcoat.
I have been looking at polytranspar and other taxidermy lacquers. I'm starting to see an advantage to createx type paints. They are available in small quantities. I could see myself experimenting with paints and buying five gallons to paint two three inch poppers....lol
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Problems Wit Strike King 1.5 Green Shimmering Shad Color
in Hard Baits
Posted
thats the bait we are talking about just calling it by the wrong name