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Posts posted by anamealreadyinuse
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Sounds good, thanks for the tip. Can I use any fish eyes I buy or is there a special type for softbaits? Where is the best quality for the $ to purchase in your opinion?
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I am going to use the following two molds to make me some frogs for the first time...I'm not seeing a tutorial about eyes though? Is there a method to pour different color plastic eyes here or even better an actual eye I can embed and then pour in the plastic and it bonds to the eyes?
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I plan on trying to pour some baits for the first time. Some of the rubber molds have some pretty narrow cavities and I was thinking of using a turkey injector instead of just pouring from the pyrex?
Is this safe to do if I use a metal tip injector or will the pour process find all the nooks and crannies?
Also, do I coat the rubber mold with vegetable oil before I pour like the injector style molds?
Thanks, can't wait to get started!
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Thanks Ben, I think I'll give that a try with the epoxy on the next school. Great idea on the drill Griffond...I bought a new drill on the cheap and did not realize it was not variable...this is exactly the justification I need to get a variable speed one :-)
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4 oz. and I dipped it...I love the convenience of it as opposed to mixing devcon but the devcon appears much much stronger. what is a good brand of automotive clear coat to use? I may try that too...
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@Rayburn...it appears to be between the foil and the tissue paper, when I lance it I can usually get it to lay down...
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Come to think of it, the dry time of the paper/foil the first time had dried for a few days where this batch I only waited another hour...that is the only difference I can think of. I have a few extra blanks I'll tackle this week and we'll see if the paper/foil will have the same effect after a few days of drying.
What is an example of an acrylic based, is that like devcon? I like the devcon but my fingers get tired turning it and I'm lazy this stuff was nice as I could roll it around a bit and then set it upright and forget it. Totally not worth it though if it does this to the baits.
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Its a single part coating which is why I like it and it does not dry prematurely like Dick Nites stuff...alot less hassle so far but not as strong I don't think. Website here. I am putting the tissue on a piece of paper and using a glue stick to keep the tissue in place on the printer and then cut out the tissue and glue using spray elemer's glue to the shiny side of alumninum foil and cutting out from there. I then spray the back of the aluminum foil with the elmers glue again and place on the bait. What do you think?
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I am using a product called Seal-Coat from CS Coatings and created the exact same bait using the same wood, tissue and rattle can paint as before a few weeks ago. This time around I am getting these wormy looking bubbles that are ruining the bait's finish. I spend a few hours carving and sanding these so it's a major pisser when they look like this at the very end? I did notice I can lance 'em lightly like a boil and then press with a round metal surface and they somewhat disappear but it muddies the patter on the foil.
What am I doing wrong and how do I avoid in the future?
Attached is a sample:
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Thanks Raven for the link...dropped 'em an email, hope to hear from them soon!
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Does anyone know where I can buy a quatity of new metal lure lips like you find on this 9630 replica. I have tried a ton of the major lure parts sellers online and came up dry. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
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okay, good advice...thanks guys! Last time I mixed up a batch I ended up stirring in a bunch of bubble but it was the 5 min. epoxy which was a terrible experience LOL...talk about rushing. I tried to not mix as much of the 2 ton this time so that definitly was the problem...no way the 2 ton is a half hour cure though, I am guessing I had 15 min. max to do 2 baits and when you still are feeling your way around best way to do it, I need every minute ;-)
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Thanks Bob! Is this common when using Devcon in this way or what I suspect in that I did not mix properly?
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My mixing skills still need some work. I thought I had mixed my Devcon 2Ton epoxy thouroughy but 2 days later there are some "sticky' areas when I run my hand lightly over the bait. Most of the bait is rock solid, just a few areas are sticky but still covered totally. Will this eventually harden? Do I try a second coat? How do you all handle this situation?
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Thanks guys! It's really neat stuff, easier to work with than the Devcon or at least not as thick. I did notice it stripped my acrylic paint I use to hand paint the red mouth and black tail on the snook minnows and also a little on a gold rattle can finish I had though?
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trying my hand at using Dick Nite's clear top coat today and had a few q's. How many coats for saltwater use? How long do you wait if multiple coats?
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Had our first experience last weekend using Devcon. It sure is alot stronger than the rattle can spray we've been using! Couple of questions for ya:
- Is the 30 minute epoxy also called Model S-31?
- What tools/method do you guys use to hold and manuever the bait as you coat the expoxy, is there a tutorial?
Thanks!
- Is the 30 minute epoxy also called Model S-31?
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I love the bait we got but my son and I would have appreciated it alot more if you had put some sort of note as to how you made it, what you used etc. Very happy with the bait but we appreciate the story as much as the bait.
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That Mirrorlure shad does look like a winner. Thanks for the tip Ray, I've been using envelopes as a template and its too flimsy, that shoe box idea sounds like a winner. Crank, that shad looks AWESOME! Where did you get the blank for that?
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Thanks to everyone for the help, so glad to find the TU. My son and I normally carve our own baits as part of the fun out of basswood. We are keen to try to build a common bait we call whitebait that is literally our favorite bait to use in our saltwater back bay fishing grounds. I'd like to try a pre-purchased bait on this one to get a good working model. Can anyone suggest a blank that looks similar to this photo that you know works well?
http://floridasportfishing.com/magazine/baitfish-profiles/scaled-sardine.html
Thanks for your help!
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LOL...okay, so I "marinated" the new lures in a bag of Berkeley Gulp that had a few gulps left...I'm not sure what they put in that Gulp but it did some pretty crazy stuff to the finish, kind of scary and looks like a nuclear fish or something...oh well, maybe the overwhelming gulp smell will still get a hit (I doubt it)
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@saltshaker...is Acrylic the standard sharpie you pick up in a office supply store? This is what I got from Krylon and the basic sharpie...what am I doing wrong?
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Ouch, I just realized that the Krylon "melts" the Sharpie signature my son and I placed on the baits? We wanted to sharpie our last name and the lure # but when I sprayed with the Krylon the Sharpie started running like it never dried (I checked and it was dry)...any way to avoid this with the Krylon in the future? Is there a better way to "sign" the baits?
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Thanks Mark, I'll give her a go!
Hints For Drilling Eye Sockets In Wood Blanks?
in Hard Baits
Posted
I'm going to lose a limb one of these days...LOL...well, maybe not that far but good grief I dremel some of the ugliest eye sockets known to mankind. I upgraded my dremel from the harbor freight model to a variable speed one much more powerful but still have the problem of the bit slipping off my center mark. I also have this same problem when I try to use a ball bit for creating a curve in a popper. I am using the stone (i think its stone) bits that come with both dremel but they seem to struggle with biting into the wood? I hope that makes sense....can anyone recommend a technique or different type of bit that can do eithr of these tasks better?
Thanks!