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eastman03

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eastman03 last won the day on December 6

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About eastman03

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  1. I totally agree on the airbrush restorer. I thought I did a good job keeping my brush clean, until I soaked it overnight in the restorer. There was a bunch of little particles of paint that came out. It really does wonders.
  2. Unreal! Thanks for the tutorial. I'll hopefully be dabbling with this in the winter!
  3. I prefer to cut my lip slots while the wood is in block form as well, but if you are making many lures at a time, it can help to build a table saw jig like this to make repeatable cuts.
  4. You are correct, don't worry. Epoxy twist eyes are very strong!
  5. You are right, epoxy probably is stronger, and like a good engineer he got asked that a lot, and did some testing! lol
  6. I've had two big fish tear hooks out of lures (big muskies). Luckily they were both in the net, the fish thrashes, it kinda gets hooked in the net and it puts a ton of torque on the hook occasionally. I also wear a seatbelt, but have never gotten into an accident. haha To play devils advocate, I prefer to see thru wire lures (I really am only talking about bigger musky lures). I especially prefer it when some lures go for 100$ plus dollars. It's kinda like buying a Lambo with crank windows. When you buy a premium hand made lures, I don't mind paying the price, but I like to see all the best features. It's not the first fish or the tenth, it's after years of abuse, is that eye going to pull out? Not on the most well made lures. It makes the construction of a crankbait much more complicated! There are good ways to install a screw eye, and probably bad ways. Check out this video where he tests the pull out strength of different eyes. Interesting
  7. Krylon looking glass gives you pretty good results, ill second that. I don't have any experience outside foil and a few types of 'metallic' spray paint.
  8. That is awesome! The eyes look great. I'd be interested in some instructions on how to do that. Make a little tutorial and put it in the how to section (just an idea).
  9. As far as a finish goes, I've heard it is a good idea to use a 'mid coat' before doing the final epoxy job ( or other finish for that matter). Has anyone tried this. It seem like a great idea, it would eliminate any contamination issues I think. I keep sharing videos from this guys page (not mine btw), but he explains the idea of a mid coat starting at 9 minutes. I'm going to try it on an upcoming batch of lures i'm working on.
  10. No problem @fishordie79, I really like his approach and information that he gives about all aspects of lure building. His channel is newer, so youtube doesn't really push it quite yet.
  11. This is a somewhat related video about finding the center of buoyancy (not my video). It's based on a topwater lure, but the principles would be the same. Check out his other videos, very informative youtube channel.
  12. Thanks for the tips guys. I think i'm going to try what you suggested kinda @JD_mudbug and cut a hole in the polycarbonate so the lense can see through, but the edges will still hold it in. That would be a simple solution to the fogging problem seeing as the camera has no problem being submerged. I do own a Spydro camera (very similar to a waterwolf camera). And I have some really cool footage of muskies striking my crankbaits! (and also missing them). But I wanted to make a lure that I can cast without an awkward camera attached to the leader, something that I can actually fish, and potentially get a muskie to hit the camera itself! It's just a side project I'm slowly working on for fun.
  13. I can't see the pic, but everyone using epoxy struggles when starting out it seems. Stick with it, I love the finish and toughness of epoxy! Lots of great tips here..
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