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eastman03 last won the day on March 14

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  1. lol, hopefully people read this. Most of the people with entries have multiple pics or entries. I have a question, if my lure is a hybrid (hard wood body with soft plastic tail) which category should I put it in? I'm thinking hardbait as the tail (which I made) is more of an accessory.
  2. eastman03


    I'm in Manitoba, we have about 21 cases mostly in Winnipeg. I live out in the country where I mostly self isolate by choice (even before the virus lol). I'm very fortunate to be able to work from home at the moment. I teach at our Power Company's lineman school (I'm a lineman by trade). So right now we shut the school down, but finally have time to do a in-depth program review... necessary but boring. I'll be hanging out on the forum more often than usual lol. Stay safe out there fellas, create something awesome!
  3. Cool, great idea! I was thinking about some sort of joint sticking out, but once again, I just wanted to get moving haha. I'll test out this tail/lure design, and then look toward a better method of joining them, thanks! Has anyone ever dipped an entire hybrid lure in clear plastisol? I know soft plastics are often dipped after to give them a 3d look and to 'seal' them. But an entire lure! lol now i'm just talking crazy.
  4. Thanks Vodkaman. Hillbilly, keyed joint? Are you referring to giving the end of the wood and rubber a interlocking shape, like dovetail, to allow more glue surface area? I studied the new rapala hybrid that just came out, and they kind of inset the soft part into the hardbait. Of course it's incredibly well done and beautiful. They really do a good job, but my issue with all the off the shelve lures is either they are too small (like the rapalas), or they are a giant one piece rubber, like the svartzonker mcrubbers. Those giant rubber baits are cool, but hard to find for me, expensive and they still get destroyed by a few fish. I can tell some of the brands have resorted to stronger, tougher rubber, but I feel that has taken away from the tail action. I want real soft rubber to give a nice big slow wobble on a slow retrieve, so that is what led me down this rabbit hole of pouring my own soft baits. I can have a tough wooden body and all the benefits of that, but a real soft replaceable tail for a nice slow wobble. Now that I've opened up this aspect of lure making, I have a million other ideas I want to try lol.
  5. Well this thread was full of great advice, and I ignored it all. Haha. Stupid virus has me working from home (which lets me help with the kids, so no complaining here, just happy to be working), anyway I decided to just go ahead and see if I could make a mold with what I got. I did a simple open pour mold with the alumilite silicone. Knowing it wasn’t enough I filled in gaps with 100% silicone to get enough depth. Then I let that set up and filled in the remainder with silicone. It was a huge mess but I was bored. Now today I used an old pot and my torch to carefully melt some of the alumisol! I got it up to 350, and stirred it the whole time. Then I added three drops of the red dye, and a bit (probably to much) pearl powder. And after letting it cool I had my FIRST ever soft plastic pour. Man this could get addicting!! Need some other supplies to do it more consistently, but it was an awesome first result. And now I can visualize this big lure finally coming together! I used screws in this particular lure, and a corkscrew wire in another one, anyone have any tips as to what works best? What glue would you use to join them, regular super glue?
  6. I pretty much do exactly what Hillbilly does as well! There are lots of great pages on this site with tips for finishing. If I'm prototyping a bait, or just want to get out and fish with a lure I made myself, one coat of epoxy like envirotex provides lots of strength. It wont last as long a several coats, but it will do! Here is a really good list of pointers for getting that glassy finish...
  7. Well for sure move to a high quality slow cure epoxy. Joe Peterson's Tru Coat, Envirotex, Alumilite Clear cast, Devcon 2 ton (slow cure), BSI 30 min, there are a bunch of them. All of them can provide much higher quality results! And for the most part, I would do 2 or three thin coats, depending on the epoxy I suppose, and depending on the potential use of the lure. Making large wooden muskie lures, I like 2 or three thin epoxy coats. And I love the look of epoxy when it is done well!
  8. The two piece mold has always been on the table. it is a better product as you have said. I just figured as my first mold ever, I would keep it simple. But heck, might as well make a 2 piece.
  9. Nice! That stupid virus can't stop bait building!
  10. Ok now I totally get where you are coming from. Being a non flexible mold with POP, I need to destroy my master, or change the shape, or make a 2 piece mold. I'll come up with a solution that works, thanks!
  11. So i'm looking into making a pop mold based on recommendations, and I think that is a great idea for prototyping. And that way I don't have to skimp on a real silicone mold and have regrets. I'm just curious @Travis what you mean with some slight modifications? What do you think I would need to change to make a pop mold instead of a silicone mold?
  12. Ok thanks for the advice. Talking about that vinegar smell, I know exactly what you mean. I probably have some of that stuff somewhere!
  13. Ok interesting. Good idea. Thanks! Don’t want to skimp on a mold. This was part of a soft bait kit that came with a bit of everything. Gotta start somewhere!
  14. Ok I have seen you tubers use chunks of their old molds in their new molds. However this is my first, so no extras. What exactly is acetic acid cure silicone? Pardon my ignorance. Google didn’t exactly give me any brands that looked like that.
  15. So I’m finally going to make my giant hybrid paddle tail musky lure. My one problem based on my rough calculations is I don’t believe I have enough rtv silicone. It is going to be an open pour mold. It is flat on “top” (which is obviously face down here). So I’ll kinda seal it down to the base. Make a mold box, but as you can see because the boot part of the tail is so tall, most of the bulk of the mold will be wasted down the length of the tail just to get the depth. So my question is can I pour the silicone and simply put something in that area (like a block of wood?) to fill in some of the volume. obviously this isn’t the best option, and my apologies if this has been asked a thousand times. But mold making material is like hens teeth where I live, and I kinda don’t want to make a smaller tail lol. What do you guys think?
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