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eastman03

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eastman03 last won the day on February 14

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  1. I usually have the bill taped up, but away from the body of the lure. You don't want tape under the epoxy, speaking from experience, it's hard to remove then. I usually apply carefully to the bill/in the slot and wipe off any excess with a cloth. Most epoxy, even 5 min, gives you some working time. So align everything and wipe off the excess. As far as kbs and the hook hangers, that will be answered by someone else hopefully! Jeckyll baits on youtube uses KBS, check out her videos on how to use and store it properly.
  2. This would be more for a painting stand, but it is such a great idea. Also, it would work best for crankbaits. Starting at 11:30.
  3. eastman03

    vise question

    Cheap soft jaws = lots of layers of duct tape for me lol
  4. Yup regular createx needs thinning for sure. Some colours seem thinner by nature. Not sure why. the wicked line, golden hi flow and testors Aztec all are thin enough for me out of the bottle. As well as inks. I may thin a bit if I’m doing small details.
  5. You bet Corey! It gets confusing with all the options and acronyms. They very well might be using D2T or BSI for lips/line ties, because both of those companies also make 5 min epoxy and slow cure epoxy formulas.
  6. All the paints that we've talked about here like Createx, golden, createx wicked, jacquard or testors aztek paints are water based paints. Waterbased = Acrylic. I believe Marling bought the entire Createx wicked collection and he likes them. He does not overthink painting. I don't think he has ever reduced his paint, or even changed his psi in his compressor lol. That is awesome.
  7. I was about to say the exact same thing. I don't have any experience with the Neo. But I went the cheap route as far as paints when I started, and it was frustrating. Airbrush paints like Createx wicked, or I like Golden High flow are much better to paint right out of the bottle. And if you need to reduce, there are cheaper alternatives, but experiment after getting to learn how to paint with proper reducer. Plus a small bottle last me almost forever. Get some bright colours and experiment! Make your own quick stencils with cardboard or tape (stencils are your friend!). If the paint job is a failure (the fish wont care btw), then you can always just paint it white and start again. Lots of great youtube tutorials also. Check out Engineered Angler, DJcustombaits, marling baits, solarbaits.
  8. Haha, I thought the same thing Hillbilly, I'm hard on equipment. Lots of rocks here in the Winnipeg river, and big fish (and big fisherman). If any rod/reel/line/lure has a weak spot, I'll find it. I could fill a tackle box of broken lures that didn't hold up to the rigors of a fishing guides life.
  9. Vodkaman - I totally agree. There is a time and place for all glues! When I'm prototyping a new design, or just making something for myself, CA is great, and it can work well if applied correctly like you outlined. Once I dial in a design, I usually then factor in a wire-thru design (my preference), and sealing the wood, better paint jobs, more layers of epoxy, stuff like that.
  10. I believe that most of the epoxy talk like D2T and BSI (Bob smith industries) slow cure is for the finishing of the bait, and not so much about the lip or line ties. For that type of installation, I believe you could go for almost any type of 2 part 5 min epoxy. I'm sure there are stronger/weaker ones, I use a west systems epoxy that cures relatively quick (10 min or so). I use a much slower cure epoxy for the final clear coat, like envirotex lite.
  11. https://www.permabond.com/2015/04/29/bonding-polycarbonate-industrial-adhesive/ Personally I'd steer clear of ca clue on polycarbonate. The vibration of a lure lip, exposure to water and possibility of superglue to even damage the polycarbonate lead me to use two part epoxy to secure my lips. Epoxy also has much better gap filling properties, if the lip slot isn't perfectly cut in the wood. On my really big lures, I'll even pin the lip in place, or use a screw to ensure it stays put. Many cheaper made crankbait lips come right out after repeated use. Like Hillbilly said, look at the advantages and disadvantages and see what works best for you.
  12. I use minwax fast drying polyurethane, just dip and hang. For me that step is about helping waterproof the wood, and seal up the open pores or end that can sometimes mess up the first layer of epoxy. I think some of the youtube guys also dip Minwax polycrylic, and use that for a sealer or midcoat before finish. I do not have experience with that one. This reminded me, i've also use spar urethane cut with some thinner. They all seemed to work ok, but I only make a few baits at a time for myself. Minwax sanding sealer works as well (I've never dipped it).
  13. Got it! That looks exactly like a Strike King Wild Shiner jerkbait! For sure. https://www.fishingsupercenter.com/products/strike-king-wild-shiner-jerkbait Get rid of the old lip and make yourself a new one!
  14. Kinda looks like Bomber Long A/Smithwick Rogue. I'll do some searching and see if that's it or there is a better match. neither of those lures typically have any inset eyes like yours. Do you have a picture of the shape of the bill?
  15. Check out this guys videos - if you have had a question about lure building - he has probably answered it. Great info here..
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