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eastman03 last won the day on March 14

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  1. It sorta depends on how complex you want to get. I usually only make a dozen baits at a time, so I often just do the vice grips method to make the loop at one end. But you can make yourself jigs to get repeatable bends. Kinda like this: It helps to get yourself a good pair of round nose pliers that are strong enough to bed thicker wire, I use anywhere from .051 to .092" wire. Knipex makes excellent tools.
  2. I have used polyurethane to seal wood, then primed and painted with acrylic paints overtop. It seemed to work alright, however I did not use the polyurethane on the top of the paint. I finished these lures with epoxy, so I cant say how that would work over top of the paint. To seal the wood, I dipped the lures in polyurethane and sanded after it was dry, twice just to seal the pours and get a smooth surface to work with.
  3. Check out our member submitted tutorials! @fishordie79 has a cool tutorial on how to make lure eyes. I'm hoping to try this soon.
  4. That looks like it has excellent action! Nice work
  5. Routers are unforgiving tools! Especially when working in close quarters with a small piece or wood. I suggest make some sort of jig that removes your fingers from the danger zone. Here is a few ideas and past conversations for jigs when using the router. I see no reason to get my fingers anywhere near there. www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21991-using-a-table-router-to-make-lures/
  6. Welcome here first of all! Bait making is a fun and addictive hobby! With a small propbait, you might not need any weight at all? Might be a trial and error thing. The hardware and hooks might give it enough ballast to remain in an upright position. Tough to know without some trial and error. Lots of information on wood density and weight needed if you look up Archimedes dunk test here on the forum. That probably gets a bit more technical than what you need at the moment Decals would probably last depending on the topcoats strength. Many of us use foil (like aluminum foil tape from a hardware store for duct work), or you can buy holographic sticker material. So as long as you have a good topcoat, whatever is under it should be protected. That being said, depending on the fish you are catching, might also depend on how long the topcoat lasts! Lots of great info and help on this site. What I usually do when I'm making a new to me style lure, make a few of them. Whip out a few kinda quicker prototypes (mine usually don't even have paint). Experiment with different weights, in your case maybe prop blades, or body sizes/shapes. Just don't change too many variables at once! Have fun with it. Keep asking questions here if you are stuck.
  7. eastman03


    This is the first homemade lure that I lost, I knew it was going to happen eventually. It still sucks lol.
  8. eastman03


    It is with great sadness that I announce this lure has a new home at the bottom of the lake. In it's short life, it has given me many beautiful fish, and held up amazingly. One of my favorite lures, I will recreate it, but this one in particular will always have a place in my heart. Lets all have a moment of silence. Thank you.
  9. I really like the Engineered Angler channel on YouTube! Great ideas from him. I also have started using a mid coat for several applications and it really preps the paint for the final smooth epoxy finish! I dilute Minwax polycrylic with water and shoot it thru my airbrush to give a nice smooth mid coat for the final epoxy. I have also used it between painting and stencil layers where I want to tape a stencil or something like that to the bait. I clean out my airbrush immediately after spraying the polycrylic and haven't had any issues with it clogging up or doing any damage. If you let it harden in there I could see it being tough to remove. But airbrush restorer would probably take it off as it seems to dislodge everything (love that stuff).
  10. eastman03


    Pretty good, two of the tails plastic was a but to stiff. So I made a softer one, and it has lots of body roll and vibration. I was able to cast at some muskies with it yesterday for a bit. However, we don't typically use large lures like that till a bit later in the season. Hope to get a hog on it!
  11. Superglue was my first thought too. Liquid superglue. Or you could spray polycrylic. Love that stuff now. Probably wouldn’t penetrate as well as superglue. But you could just dip it in polycrylic too. It is thin enough it would clog the hole.
  12. eastman03

    Heavy hybrid

    Used maple for this one, and added a bunch of lead near the front for a very head heavy sinking action. I corkscrewed a wire out the back and added a 'bulldawg' style soft tail. I wanted a lure that falls straight up and down more than others on the market. Lots of the full soft plastics seem to glide and sink slower. And also, I wanted to try something! It works well!
  13. eastman03


    I'll post some pics in the hard baits section today, you bet!
  14. I'm with Mark on this one. I found some ammonia free window cleaner (it wasn't windex brand), and/or soapy water back flushes for between colors. And Airbrush restorer for a deep clean once in a while or if the performance drops. Lots of questions on airbrushes not spraying right on the other FB forums, but most of them are not doing the deep clean. Airbrush restorer works wonders for cleaning out the tight spaces. I haven't experimented with sonic cleaners, but I don't paint enough to warrant one of those. Restorer isn't really cheap either (or easy to find for me), but just soak the components and pour the solution back into the bottle. I've been using a 4 oz bottle now for quite a while lol.
  15. eastman03


    Fathers day weekend, better than Christmas. It is the muskie opener in Ontario! Good weekend, landed a couple muskies and caught a few on home made lures!!
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