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MrCribs

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  1. MrCribs

    Lucky PerchV2 2

    pfoe daar kunnen ze niet vanaf blijven denk ik.
  2. MrCribs

    IMG 1071

    if you would make the marks/spots out of tape you can spray green (or i dont know what color you want it to be) over it and then take the tape markings off again. mayb that will look good, the blank already looks great.
  3. there arnt alot of slow sinkers available i think. and a fast rising or sinking lure wouldnt look very naturel. mayb a bit offtopic, but what is the best way for a lure to rise or sink? head up or head down? or straight? does that even matter?
  4. MrCribs

    IMG 0990

    very very nice
  5. a few years ago i caught a fish on my first lure, a piece of board cut into a fish shape with rounded edges, wired with galvanized steel wire. i didnt paint it i didnt even fill the sloth for the wire. i dont know where its now, mayb i lost it... ayway, i think some fish dont care about color and others do. some just bite anything that suggests something eatable. i think the right size is more important then the color. the Asp in the water that i fish feed on the fry that are born every spring, every year. they return to the same place every year. they start feeding when the fry is about 1-2 cm, trow anything bigger at them and they wont bite. later in spring/early summer they get less selective but still dont take big lures. when they strike a lure once and miss it they never strike it again. very smart fish i think. the pike however are less size selective, i think they want to eat or they just dont. even in the clearest water they take lures that are (in colors) ridiculous (purple, bright yellow). they also stike multiple times, the most strikes i ever had where 5 in a row, on 5 casts, on the same lure. ow yea... this is pretty much off the subject of building lures, sorry...lol
  6. polyester putty here too, for harder wood baits. for softer ive used putty thats used for filling plaster board. it sands very easy and is very light but still tuff enough. to seal my lures ive only used clear varnish for cars. sealing is something very important as i found out while i was testing a unsealed pine wood lure, the 5 seconds that it was in the water it took up so much water that i had to let it dry for a day and then sand again. lesson learned; never hurry.
  7. MrCribs

    juvenile rainbow

    wow nice, is it one piece?
  8. i think the place of the lip and angle is responsible for the breaking heads. when the lip is placed in the lure under an angle, the grains on the top and front of the lip are short and will break off easier then a lip that is placed horizontally in the lure. this can be sovled by leaving the first bit of the lip thats inside of the lure straight, so its parralel to the grains, and making a bend at the outside part of the lip.
  9. well so far so good, ive made some blanks and finished the lexan lip. ive made a thru wire constr. and it looks pretty good. i had to add 10 grams of lead instead of 8 and this is the first crankbait where i had to think about where to place the weight. i took the Rapala DT 16 as example but with a DT 10 lip. i calculated all the sizes to what i wanted from pictures on internet.. for example i measured the length of a lure on my computerscreen divided it by its height , then took the answer and divided 8 cm with it. 8 cm was what i wanted. i never copy lures exactly, if so i dont mean to. i always give them a twist of my own. with the first lure of a kind i usually freestyle the tapering of the tail and head then on the second lure i take the first as example and copy it. the lip balsa construction mayb works better with the smaller size lures, so that is what im going to try. thanks all, Chris
  10. http://www.rapala.com/DT/DT,default,pd.html in the video you can see that the weight is placed low in this lure.
  11. thanks Bob, something like the DT series is exactly what im trying to make. ive looked at some videos of rapala on youtube and the DT series seem to have a pretty low center of gravity, around where the first hook hanger is. the lures almost seem to pivit around that hook hanger. ive made some blanks now of 8 cm long they weigh about 6 grams, i think the lexan lip (3 mm) ive made weighs about 8 + hooks 2 grams = 16 grams im aiming for 24 grams so i have to put 8 grams of lead somewhere in there. i just dont want to take the risk of hooking a fish and end up pulling the lip out of the lure, so ill do it trough wire.
  12. ive posted a topic about screweyes in balsa wood not long ago, now ive noticed that alot of (deep) diving lures have the linetie in the lip and the lip glued into the body. there seem to be no other connection then the lip to the body. now i would like to make some balsa deep divers but i dont know if i should use this method that i discribed above so does anyone here have any experience with this? im not doubting the strength of the lexan im planning to use, its a pain in the ass to cut with no electrical tools at hand, so it must be strong enough. its the connection to the balsa that i expect failure in. has this ever failed on anyone''s custom build lures? thanks, Chris
  13. i thought of that too, mayb it isnt as rediculous as i thought it was. and i guess its water based too.
  14. Jblaze, i have no idea mayb its worth a try crzyjunyer, at the moment i only have rattle cans, i just started making lures. some colors are transparent the first layer, others arent. (the green version is, the yellow isnt). the problem with these paints is i think that they are water based (water carried). im not sure but i dont think they are suited for mixing with epoxy, and i dont know how to reduce them.
  15. i want to make some perch patterns ''rapala style'' but i cant find any transparent yellow paint. so i was thinking about putting on a layer of transparent yellow colored epoxy after foiling, but i dont know what i could use to color the epoxy and if that actually works. if id put non transparent paint in the epoxy would the epoxy loose its tranparency ? i was wondering if you guys maybe have experience with this or any advice. thanks in advance, Chris
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