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Bixie

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  1. It's just the brush (inc. wrench) ... no hose or anything.
  2. Just so everyone knows ... a manager from Princess Nail Supply, Scott Jones (I believe), called me to explain that the actual airbrush being sold is a Iwata HP-C not the Plus series. He was real good about giving a full refund and was also very apologetic about the wrong web picture showing that the HP-C Plus was for sale. He stated that Iwata told him to just use a picture of the Plus to actually sell the HP-C. He also said that they are in the nail business and there isn't the need for airbrush control like there is in the lure making industry. So, they just didn't realize the difference between the 2 guns. The number Scott gave me to contact him is (877) 733-4772 ... hope this helps and hasn't caused any hardship (thought the price was to good to be true).
  3. I agree - I've been looking for another airbrush for quite a while now (one w/a larger cup) and the best buy I've found was on Ebay. But for the quality I haven't found anything that compares to this.
  4. Just purchased this airbrush for $90 plus shipping of $13.21 ... $103.21 total. Not sure, but this seems like a hell of a deal. Was going to buy a Revolution HP-CR for $91.25 on Ebay, but ran across this deal by accident on www.princessnailsupply.com. If anyone is interested, go get one.
  5. Blades, again thanks - because this is greek to me, I'm just putting feelers out there to see what most are doing for top coat. I agree with spraying and being able to control the thickness of the clear better, just want to try and make the best decision on what to start out with. I know trial and error is a lot of it - but, want to at least start with a good option and try to improve on it. From what I'm reading now, I'm thinking on using your formula (thanks for post) and spraying it on ... versus dipping DN clear. If you reply and have seen both finishes, which clear is harder and clearer - your mix or DN?
  6. I'm sure most of you have seen something similar or already know this trick. I've been surfing the damn web too much I think, but I thought I'd post this website because I thought it really simplified this process. Hope this helps! http://www.rivercitylures.50megs.com/make/how2/aaa/ch2/ch2.htm
  7. Thanks Blades, I'm a rook also and am leaning towards DN top coat and have talked to Dick himself as to how to extend the life of this product, but I'd think there would be more waste with dipping than spraying the clear on. I still like the idea of dipping because it sounds more hassle-free - any thoughts?
  8. Thanks guys - just got back from hobby lobby with various items. Picked up some aluminum mesh for scales along with veil. Has anyone tried the aluminum yet? They only had 2 sizes of veil and the larger doesn't look that great. Of note I bought some plaster cloth wrap and it looks like it'll work awesome for painting small dots and bars for bluegill and perch patterns. Thanks Arkie - the post is helpful.
  9. Gunnie3035, Thanks! You are right - I called TCB Global and they're saying to use more of the wicked and auto-air as possible because they are made to flow better. But even the guy said to go more by color than anything (you can use reducers). Looked at the prices on the wicked paints and they are quite a bit higher. I'll use whatever color I need within the Createx colors.
  10. Hello, I'm currently looking to get into this hobby and have been reading a lot ... especially on this website. Anyway, I want to do this not only to restore older lures but to repaint new ones. Lures like the Rapala Team Esko are no longer being offered in the U.S. and want to try and improve some of their colors - I do have a contact in Germany to get more, but the price is a lot higher now. Anyway, I understand the concepts of the different types of colors, but are they all necessary? I'm going to use Createx colors in the pearl, transparent, and opaque options ... only black and white opaques. In the Auto-Air colors I plan to use the metallic and other pearl options. Why would one need to use iridescent or wicked when you have these others? Next, looking for eyes that replicate the rapala eyes (gold w/black pupil) that are not 3D. I found some awesome 3D ones by Boss, but I'm worried they will affect the action on smaller stick type cranks such as the esko. I know this is overkill ... lastly, what color red is everyone using for gills? Thinking of using pearl red??? Anyway would appreciate anyone's help who is willing. Just a last note, if and when some of these color recipes turn out - I will post them. I think it's cool that there are those of you willing to do so, especially for ROOKS like me to view. Thanks, Chad!
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