Apdriver

That’s a great technique. Thanks for sharing. I have lots of skirts stuck like that. PITB.

It looks like a 702 to me

Never use your good sprue cutter for anything but cutting lead. Just touching them on a hook shank will dull them. I used to wrap the shank on a mold that flashed a bit on the shank. About three times around the shank and one was dull. all that said, I like the Xuron flush cutters. I’ll copy and paste a pair but they have a bunch available. Really high quality tools. https://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/3/84

Thanks Mike. One of these days I might pull the trigger on the Rosco crimper but making a few Arigs for myself just hard to justify spending the coin.

Have any success with these?

Let us know how those work out. Here’s a possibility that may be good. I don’t have a pair, though.

Heres the metal sleeve spacers. https://barlowstackle.com/metal-sleeve-spacers-p848/ and here’s the leader sleeves which are a little shorter https://barlowstackle.com/leader-sleeves-p930/

Here’s what I do Chris. These spacers come in chrome, also. As a matter of fact, I think this one in photo is marketed as a crimp on sleeve.

There is a way to pull and shoot until all your plastic is gone with dual injectors and that’s with a dual presto pot setup with automatic stirrers. You will still have to clear your blending block after you demold but the twin injectors you can put back in the hot plastic and draw and shoot and the plastic will stay fluid. You purge back into the pots and stick the nozzles back in the hot plastic. Just pull more plastic when ready. It takes quite a bit more than a few ounces of plastic to get two presto pots going though. Leonard Smith put mine together with PID thermostat controllers for the pots. That was quite a few years ago and not sure if anything like that is available now.

No way can I delaminate a set of molds, pick up my injector and shoot again. After I shoot a set, I have to purge my injectors, pull the runners from the blending block and start over. It’s a slow process with hand injector and hand molds.

You should be fine at those temps. Be sure to pre heat your injectors and the blending block. I haven’t seen FGF version but my BT dual injector has a blending block that has long runners and the diameter of those runners are small. A lot of potential to freeze prematurely if not preheated. I use a propane torch with igniter. Easy peasy.

I’m not mad or disappointed in what Jeff has done. As we all do sometimes, he’s gone through a hiccup in life. Nothing for me to be mad at him for. I will continue to order when I need something from him. Best wishes to him and hope he gets settled soon.

Spent a few hours in my shop and took a look at my A Rig components. .041 wire no. 7 coast lock swivel for end of the arms no 5 swivel sleeve the crimpers do not have any markings but I have a photo. They are 81/4 inches long. I use the crimp channel marked in red. It’s very small but is round as opposed to the v shape. Memory wasn’t so good. I believe I prolly bought from The Barlow brothers. Just another option for you. Good luck….. https://barlowstackle.com/standard-crimper-cutters-p932/

You will want to use as large a wire as you can get away with. If you are making your harness you may be limited by your wire bending tool. I’m pretty sure I use .041 but will be down in my shop later and will check. If you use too small a wire, the a rig won’t hold its shape well and bend easily. Also as you have experienced, if the wire is too small for the swivel sleeve, or not sized correctly, they can slide on you. I will look at the crimping tool I use and see if it has markings but it is one with several slots to choose from. I use a small slot with a vee that crimps tightly.

I don’t use the shooting star or your plastic but whenever I remelt, I add heat stabilizer. May not completely solve the darkening issues but will help some.