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Apdriver

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Everything posted by Apdriver

  1. This is actually the same belly color. It’s just how the light and shadows played with it. I had some of the back color run under the belly which puts it on top on a couple of these, I think, because I held too much pressure. Just learning the mold and this was the first time I shot it.
  2. I know you can use fine mica powders to color plastic. It’s used in automotive paints. I know they have some powdered dyes, also. Stay away from anything water based as it causes all kind of bubbles plus if you introduce water to 350 Fahrenheit plastic it would produce a lot of steam as it evaporates, then all the bubbles.
  3. If my memory is correct, bait plastics and dead on both resell polysol. This is copied from their website(Polysol). “Polysol and Bait Plastics LLC offers a complete line of products to support the Soft Bait Manufacture A guy awhile back had some issues with it splitting while trying to insert do its ultra minnow inside a tube made out of dead on. All I’m going to do is stick a hook in it most likely. Heck, if It’s breaking hearts and taking home cash, I gotta like it!
  4. I haven’t bought any in awhile. I’m on the last of my Calhoun’s I bought from Leonard. From doing a search, Ozark Tackle is selling Calhoun’s but they want 36.- a gallon. Fringe tackle maybe another selling but on Facebook. I don’t have an acct. I sent Calhoun a message on who I could buy retail from early this week and they haven’t replied. Just searching around for some reliable source and good plastic that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. Got any ideas?
  5. I know some guys use their plastic. I have some questions about it. 1. Does it take multiple reheats well if you kick it over and then only reheat to low 300’s? 2. Does it hard pack? 3. How’s the odor if you get a whiff? Strong? Anything else positive or negative you have to say. Thinking about trying a few gallons.
  6. Thank to everyone who suggested the heat stabilizer. I needed to shoot a new mold just to try it out. Added heat stabilizer to my old (4 years old now) plastic and all was fine again. Reminded me of the old Calhoun’s when it was new. It went through 7 reheats and never saw an issue. I added more after the third or fourth reheat. I prolly used 1/2 teaspoon in 150ML. Between 1/2 and 3/4 cup. Here’s what it looked like.
  7. I was looking through some bookmarks yesterday and ran across this. If I was a just starting out looking for cheap alternatives, I think I may give these guys a try. Has anybody shot any of their molds? Anybody have any or do business with them? I’d like to hear some personal experience. https://authentic-handmade.myshopify.com
  8. Well Dang. Sorry that it didn’t work for you. On the bright side, you have a nice tool for the other stuff.
  9. You need to size up so you can lay your baits straight when bagged. Or...as straight as you can.
  10. Apdriver

    Fluid Bed Build

    Got it off Amazon. It’s a cheap pot stirrer that runs off double A’s. Removable little legs, throw those away. Three speed that thumps pretty good. I just zip tied it to my cup and use at least three layers of news print for a filter. Never change it. May have to sit your cup on a piece of cloth so it doesn’t run away. https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Handsfree-Stirrer-Blender-Kitchen/dp/B08247K8RM/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Pot+stirrer&qid=1600562867&sr=8-7
  11. Apdriver

    Fluid Bed Build

    Nice build on your fluid bed. Your jigs look good to. You are well on your way on this powder coating part of tacklecrafting. After a bunch of frustrating time spent trying to find what filter I needed for what paint and volcanoes and non fluidizing powder and on and on, I searched out a vibratory motor to mount on my cups. It made my powder coating much simpler and better because I can get nice thin coverage and not cover up as much detail with thick powder. Just an idea.....
  12. Usually lead doesn’t “bond” to hardened steel. It stays put because of the bend in the hook. If you demold be pulling the hook, especially on smaller baits, you can loosen the hook. Try pulling on sprue to demold. You can grab it with a pair of pliers. You may need to harden your lead a bit if this doesn’t work.
  13. Do a search on Dead on plastic. Here’s a thread on it. Might want to read before you buy. As far as gloves, I prefer as thin a glove as I can get away with. Reason being is wearing a heavy glove with little feel, I am more prone to dropping a Pyrex and feel That puts me at more risk than a thin glove. I like them rubberized for the best grip. exploding Pyrex- never had it happen but some have reported it. It seemed the common theme was well worn/scratched cups being put on cold surfaces after heating.
  14. Probably need some heat stabilizer for multiple reheats to keep your plastic from yellowing. How about a medium plastisol, works for most things. Softener added to it if you want really soft. Salt will make it sink.
  15. I don’t think you need one. If you get some bubbles just let your cup sit for a minute and they will rise to top. Draw plastic from the bottom. You can pop the bubbles with a heat source. Heat gun, I pass a torch over them. Usually, fresh plastic won’t give you much trouble. Just my opinion.
  16. Storing equipment- if you have a space or wall that you can use, base cabinets on each side of a plywood countertop. Above that some type of exhaust fan and hood and on each side of that a set of cabinets. Maybe some open shelving for stuff you can’t or don’t want to keep in the cabinetry. I’ll try to dig up a pic or two. worm oil- you can use it to coat finished baits with so they will have some lubricity, slide easily and package better when you try to put them in a mil package. scent- you can utilize it several different ways. Add to your cooked plastic before you inject, use in place of worm oil to lubricate and add scent before you package and the baits will absorb the scent in the package. Some guys say the scent bakes off in hot plastic. Personally, I add scent and use like a worm oil. Add it to the package if I want scent. Put scent in hard container with baits, shake and coat, then package.
  17. Oil based scent. I’ve had good luck with the Lureworks stuff.
  18. +1 on what Wally says. A good stickbait Mold to get started. I have a 10 cavity I picked up used and it makes plenty of baits quick. I don’t like a single cavity of anything except maybe a large swimbait. Pretty sure you can get a four or five cavity stickbait mold fairly reasonable. Do It has one in the essential series too.
  19. Injection molds are the most expensive part of your search. When I started, I trolled the classifieds here, on the doit forum, eBay has some gently used molds that pop up. Figure out what you want and just keep an eye out. It’s how I bought a lot of molds when starting this hobby. Cavity count is important and that takes time. Second hand shops for a micro. Pyrex isn’t all that expensive new. Good luck....
  20. I would like to know more about that process (vulcanizing, I think) and how you produce these. I will never do this but interested in all things baitmaking.
  21. Man, are those nice. 20 at a time.....
  22. We were deemed essential employees from the very start. Scared? I dunno. I hate to think what would have happened if anybody called in and said they wouldn’t work because of COVID-19. Prolly would have been asked not to return to work. Different perspectives, I guess.
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