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Posts posted by Apdriver

  1. There are a lot of guys that have forgotten more about making inlines than I know and some of those have already made a few suggestions in this thread. One thing that hasn’t been discussed and  one of the elements or variables on an in-line is the type of blade used. I noticed Kevin has used quite a few Colorado blades. On an in-line, a Colorado doesn’t spin well. The French blade or Indiana blade is a much better choice for inlines with a clevis. As suggested, they need to be sized correctly. Please look at Toadfrogs first post with the pics of his inlines. Notice how the end of his French blades would come about to the end of the brass weight on the in-line. That’s sized correctly. Now, I’m not saying you can’t make an in-line with just wire and beads because you can. I’ve had success using an Indiana blade and no weight.

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  2. 3 hours ago, Pinson Custom Knives said:

    Got my first couple of baits poured and curing, I’m having some air bubble problems...is there a way to remove them without a vacuum chamber? Because I don’t have one. 

    I’ve never heard of anyone vacuum chambering their plastisol. What you can do is wait a minute or two to let the bubbles rise to the top. Some of the bubbles will pop and disappear on their own. When most of the bubbles are at the top, you can take a propane torch or a heat gun and run that over the top of the plastic and it will pop the bubbles that rise to the top. Breaks the surface tension. Be careful not to scorch your plastisol. The heat trick works on epoxy also.

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  3. If I did anything to remove any material, I wouldn’t do it on the tube as it is the thinnest material. If material needs removed, do it on the nozzle end and any machinist with a lathe should be able to take a few thousandths off and it shouldn’t be that expensive. It’s a very simple procedure with that equipment. That said, it may be that you can solve the issue with a thinner O ring. Try that first.

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  4. Jann’s is about the only place I’ve seen with a pretty comprehensive sizing chart of all things fishing tackle. You have to print it to get it to size correctly and that could possibly be from a windows based computer. Not sure if this could help or not.

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  5. Add when bagging but some of that stuff will discolor light baits, turns gummy over time, will shorten the shelf life of your bagged baits. Until you get a handle on the good and bad, I would say use it sparingly and with caution. I have had good luck with the Lureworks/spike it scents. Some others not so much. 

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  6. I think the flat rate shipping boxes from the usps are probably going to be your best option for small quantity shipping. Pick your box and stuff it full and it’s one flat rate. Pretty cheap.

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  7. On 2/19/2020 at 9:33 AM, basshunter824 said:

    how to you put the D2T on? I used a small craft brush and it left brush marks. I had read that it is self leveling and would not leave brush marks. Any suggestions? I am new at this. Thanks

    I never really got along with D2T. Not enough working time for me. I have found KBS Diamond has a longer working time....much longer...and gives a crystal clear finish also. It is a moisture cure urethane and storage can be an issue with MCU’s but I have had a quart for a long time using the tap the can method and bloxygen.

    All that said, there are excellent epoxies used by rod builders to coat the wrappings on rods that have excellent working times and are self leveling. I like a product called Proflex that’s easy to work with and long pot life. No storage issues either because it’s a two part epoxy. Crystal clear. 

    One other thing you will probably want to do to get your best overall result when topcoating your creations, is make yourself a lure turner. Cuts down on the frustration of drips, runs and such of topcoats and allows you to use and experiment with most any topcoat. You can find all kinds of lure turner threads here with a search. 

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