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Posts posted by Apdriver

  1. One thing I do when I look at a mold is visualize, think about where the plastic will go looking at the runner and cavities one one side. So for a core shot, we would pour an ounce or two of hot plastic into the runner followed be an injection. In this mold, that ounce or two would go down that runner, fill the bottom cavity, might get a bit in middle cavity followed by shot. That’s exactly what you would see in final baits. Bottom cavity would be pour color, you might get some core effect in middle cavity, top cavity would be shot color for the most part. That’s why every mold doesn’t do core shots well.

  2. I have some and have processed three or four 4x8’s. I took a high pressure spray washer after mine and some industrial degreaser. This took most of the old adhesive and drywall and whatever else is sticking on them off. You can use the most aggressive nozzle you have. The summer heat dries them out pretty quick. Take a shop hammer to them to lay them flat. 
    once dry, I used a sheet metal scissor to cut them into strips and rolled the strips up to get the pieces manageable. Into an outside pot they went. Lots of flux and skimming off anything that comes up. Get upwind. After a pot of it is clean, ladle into a muffin pan where the ingots will fit in your pour pot. It will be good stuff. Mostly used in X-ray room construction.

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  3. How long do they need to cure? 48 hrs. before you bag them if you don’t want bent baits. If there’s time, longer is better. Another thing that may be helpful is you can lay them out in those cheap small ziploc containers after you shoot and take them along on a fishing trip and bag them later. Stacking is OK unless it’s a very large bait with a lot of volume like a 7 inch swimbait or something. Then even stacking can misform the plastic.

  4. I know Worth doesn’t post their price on gold plated as the price of gold is ever changing and mostly up. They do post their prices per thousand but they don’t make you buy a thousand. They just charge a small fee for quantities less than 1K. Just give them a shout and they’ll be glad to fill you in on the cost. It’s been awhile since I bought from them so I can’t recall exactly what that fee is but it’s nominal IIRC.

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  5. 5 hours ago, hpssports said:

    HH-66 is the glue used for assembling & patching vinyl rafts. Used a lot in the sign business to attach vinyl pieces together.

    I bet that would patch up a pair of waders too. Dual purpose adhesive.

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  6. 39 minutes ago, ddl said:


    no flux ,was a brand new lee at 9

    I think you should empty your pot and start over. First, never put lead in your pot that hasn’t been fluxed and cleaned unless you trust the source like you trust your best friend. Flux it 2 or 3 times. Scrape off the impurities with a ladle, stainless steel large spoon works well. Pigmetal spoon from Walmart does not. Lots of info on flux in the best lead flux thread. I use gulf wax parrafin  from your grocery store. Readily available.  Do it outside. Lots of smoke. After you have cleaned your lead only then it goes in your pot. From there, still some learning curve. That’s a start, though.

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  7. I’m no metallurgist but there’s a in depth conversation the last couple pages on contamination, color, temperature, fluxing of course, and oxidation up in the best lead flux thread. It might give you some idea about what’s going on. Did you flux that lead well before you put it in your pot? And what are you using for flux?

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  8. I have some older Calhoun’s that yellows now on the first heat. It’s prolly 4-5 years old. When fresh, it would take multiple reheats without yellowing. When I make some more baits, I’m gonna add some heat stabilizer and see if it helps but for the most part the colorant covers it. I don’t make many clear baits or lightly colored stuff. 

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  9. I’ve had good luck with flat end mill bits and ball end mill bits in my drill press with a drill press clamp. The dremel for me wanted to walk, wasn’t easy to control, and just made a mess of things. What worked is laying a Hook on one side and spraying the hook and mold with mold release. This will leave the outline of hook on the mold. Doing the same on the other side. Removing material with the end mills. 

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