Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Apdriver

  1. Doesn’t cost anything but a little time to try it. I think the createx over powder paint then baked will give inadequate results and as the powder paint sets in the oven will wash out the Createx. If it doesn’t work, you could put a powder paint base coat on whatever color you choose. Go ahead and heat set it in your oven. Createx your accent perch stripes with the airbrush and heat set those with a heat gun. The third step would be to topcoat them with a clear like KBS which can be brush applied as its self leveling and will make your other colors pop. That’s a few steps but will give excellent results and a bang up jig.

    • Thanks 1

  2. Just for an experiment and small quantity needed, why couldn’t you just trim those appendages off some baits to try out the experiment. Then if you are sure you want to modify, you could use some high temp RTV. I know guys have a lot of success with it filling in aluminum molds pouring lead which is about twice the heat of plastisol. 

    • Like 1

  3. 2 hours ago, mark poulson said:

    How in the world did you get the wires attached?

    Very carefully! For the twin spin part, the closed loops are twisted after the wire form was placed inside the loop. I had to be very careful not to bend anything with the Hagens in the process. The original didn’t have closed loops for the blades, just had a radius bend back onto the wire. Not real secure so I changed that up so the Sampos wouldn’t depart while fighting a fish. I water tested these and they ran very nice.

  4. A couple of months ago, I twisted out about a dozen of these for a friend of mine up in Missouri. It was a copy of an old bait he had called Shimmy Shiner or something like that. Used in small creeks for Goggle Eye and such. Really small bait created for the most part on a Hagens wire bender. 


    • Like 1

  5. Another technique that will loosen your head/hook bond is demolding by grabbing your hook and pulling while that head is still very warm. Never grab the hook and always demold by grabbing the sprue. You’re remelting that anyway and I grab it with a pair of pliers and pull the bait out of the mold. Small jaws rec on cutting the sprue is spot on also. I would recommend a good pair of gate shears that are made specifically for the job. As a rule, they will shear the gate very clean and flush and won’t require any cleanup, filing, or what have you to clean up the shear. Xuron makes a very nice set and never use them for anything else except shearing sprues. Other uses will tend to dull them.


    • Like 1

  6. I used to fish the White some around Calico Rock and Sylamore. Jack Hinkles wife used to make a trout spinner that they sold at their trout dock that was just a wire, clevis, a few beads and an open loop on one end with a leader sleeve on the wire so you could put a hook on it. I think they sold those for  a buck fifty or so 30 years ago. You would lose ten of the dang things in a day fishing three people out of a boat and that was pretty good money back then for a fellow that didn’t make much. Bought a little bender from Jann’s and made a pile of those little spinners. 
      If I remember correctly, They used a # 4 Indiana blade on a #2 clevis with 5/16 beads. We would put a #6 or #4 gold Aberdeen hook on it and bait it with a worm or Salmon egg or both and drift down the river dragging that spinner around with just enough split shot on the line to hold it down toward the bottom. Caught a lot of stockers.

    • Like 2

  7. Joe, we need more information than that. There are all kinds of inline spinners. Some with body’s. Some without. Vibrax, rooster tail, trout spinners with no bodies just a split shot above spinner to hold it down. Maybe post a pic to show us what you’re trying to duplicate or want. Welcome to the forum, by the way.

    • Like 3

  8. On 10/10/2019 at 5:22 PM, Troutfishing303 said:

    I'm glad you figured out the problem!  Does anyone else think it's weird how the hot plastisol doesn't ooze out of the vent holes?  Is the plastic cooling before it gets a chance to ooze out?

    There’s a fine line between vents too small and vents too large. If they are too large, you will get plastic that flows out of them causing little nipples on your baits. Too small and the baits won’t fill. Mold also needs enough of them. So if you are opening up some vents to solve a problem, go slow. Remove a little material and try the mold. Wash, rinse, repeat until it shoots well without the flash....or nipples, if you will.

    • Like 3

  9. Soft plastic stores very well with nothing on it. To help bag your baits where they slide easily, just use worm oil. Over the years, I have tried scents and scented oil and have found no oil at all works best for long term storage.  Add scent for short term use within 3-4 months. My .02.

  10. 1 hour ago, Big A said:

    I run thousands of items yearly through both a Lyman and a RCBS bottom pour pot and have never had either clog up on me. LED is melted in a cast iron pot, fluxed 3 times and poured into 1 lb ingot molds. It is fluxed again when remelted in the pouring pot and every time ingots are added. I have used Marvelux, paraffin, crayons, and beeswax to flux and love to keep a layer of aromatic red cedar on top of the melt to prevent oxidation. It smells superb!

    How does Red Cedar on top prevent oxidation? Any idea? Maybe this is what I need to do too. My melt will still oxidize after fluxing and cleaning but I don’t use a “topper”.

  11. Not off the shelf, but they’re pretty easy to make just with a pair of round nose pliers and some stainless leader. Bend a piece double. Then where you bent it, grab the bent end and bend it a bit more than 90 degrees. There’s your “part”. Tricky part is getting it on the hook without distorting it. 

    • Thanks 1
  • Create New...