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Apdriver

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Posts posted by Apdriver

  1. I bought a Griffen Montana Mongoose which is a rotary vise,and for what you want it for, I reccomend it. It was reccomended to me by Smalljaw and he has had great service from his Griffen as well. These will hold a large bass hook like you're wanting to. I have put up to a 5/0 in mine, no problems. The rotary is nice because you can turn it over to inspect and adjust your material as you build or just to add material to the bottom of the jig. Prices are all over the place but there's a guy on eBay selling new ones very competively priced with free shipping.

  2. Yes. They will work with all the molds currently in production, that I know of. There were some early molds when injection bait making started out, that were different but now everyone is producing molds with a 5/8 inch opening leading to the spruce. If you are thinking about buying one, get the six inch. You'll be glad you did.

  3. There's several ways to skin that cat. The answer is yes, you can. The forty dollar mold is the essentials mold and has a textured finish to it because they are sand cast molds. Personal preference on this. Some guys like it. I don't own any though. Three techniques you could try:

    1. Open the mold, hand pour one color. Then close the mold and slowly, shoot second color.

    2. Laminate your baits with a dual injector and blending block. This will be a more expensive option.

    3. Make your own laminate plate out of aluminum foil, or if the mold will close with a thicker material, thin metal flashing or aluminum from a cola can. This method will give two half baits. Put one half back in the mold and shoot your second color.

  4. The release agent a lot of us use is mostly graphite, from the looks of it. It does make the pour much easier most times and seems to make lead flow much easier. Just a guess....pour with ridges- no agent. Smooth pour with release agent.

  5. What can you deduce about graphite from this picture? Both weights shown were cast in the same cavity of the same mold. The lead was the same temperature for both.

    Not enough information. What does graphite, lead and molds have in common?

  6. Baitjunkys has a pid controller for the presto pots. I have a couple of them and they work good but really don't think they would control the temp on that little unit since it's set so low. The other thing I know he's working on is a small two pot heating system for the hobbyist but it's not finished yet. You could certainly order the presto from Amazon or something but get what you're saying about smaller.

  7. You can dip in your regular plastisol but run a chance of it going off color with multiple reheats. If you want something that's manufactured for dipping, spike it makes a clearasol that's good. If you have a bunch to do, I recommend it. Just a few, maybe use what you have.

  8. attachicon.gif20150915_091004_zpshjs6x9fj.JPGattachicon.gif20150915_091024_zpsw3mccop9.JPG my injector

    Roger, that's using your noggin and thinking outside the box! Is that a jerky shooter? My only problem with it is how do you preheat it? I have to preheat my injector or it will clog terribly. Maybe you load it differently. Share with us how you use it and any problems you had to overcome.

  9. After you replace your o rings and start shooting just watch for this. When you put your injector into your cup to draw hot plastic and start pulling on the plunger, sometimes it will get hard to pull. It's like the plastic is hardening and stopping up the nozzle. I've found most times it's because I've let my nozzle down onto the bottom of my cup and that's what's plugging it up. This is when you will draw air around your o rings especially the top one as they go bad. Usually when I find myself doing this, just canting the injector at a 45 usually solves it.

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  10. I sent you a PM but if you are leaning towards injection molding, of course you'll need an injector. I reccomend a 6 ounce. My first injector was the three ounce and it became too small pretty quick. Plastisol, colorant, and glitter. Some safety equipment: gloves, safety glasses, if you don't have good ventilation a respirator. The fumes are pretty nasty stuff. Something to heat your plastic in. Most use Pyrex cups. There is a silicone cup that works nicely. The last thing I would recommend is a infrared thermometer. I use mine extensively and every time I heat plastisol. Takes the guesswork out. You can get one pretty reasonably from harbor freight. Mine has worked well and is several years old from there. Good luck in your new hobby. Be safe and have fun.......Bill...

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