Apdriver

I'll have to get back to you on that. I'm away from my things for a week so I can't say. I'll make a few up and go through that process and see if the glue is staying on my hook eye. I found the stuff I'm using in my attic.

1. Skim with stainless spoon. Size depends on the size of the pot your smelting in. 2. Your jigs or whatever your making will take on the characteristics of your mold. If it's a do it sand cast mold it won't be as smooth as a CNC cut machined mold. 3. Sometimes the surface will take on a sheen like appearance dependant on your mix of lead you're working with. Are you fluxing? If not, I would suggest it. It helps remove the contaminants and makes your pouring so much better. Flux and flux often.

I ordered a grand of the swivels and the size 7-33 nickel Rosco Coastlocks. 75 lb. test on the Coastlocks. Just got them in today. Can't give a " been to the lake report" but both look good and very nice, courteous, and fast service. Very happy. The # 5 Romar Sleeve swivels are perfect for .041 wire. Like the size of their # 7 coastlocks rated at 75 lbs. they are a better fit than the #3 90 lb. coastlocks. The # 3 is a bit big IMO.

For a four inch grub, I like the Fat Albert at Baitjunkys. He has a nice injector too. I think he's working on a new prototype and the 7 oz. wiould be great for injecting those multiple big stick molds. Personally, I like it better than some of the other injectors because it's a thin walled injector that heats up easily and won't plug up as much as the thicker walled injectors do. It also has a locking pin on the nozzle which is desirable. The Fat Albert shoots good every time, no denting and has great action. Have caught a lot of fish on it.

Glad I could help. Over the years, I have learned so much tackle crafting technique here that would have taken a lifetime of trial and error to figure out. I am grateful that so many share their knowledge, tips and techniques so freely. It's nice to be able to give back from time to time. It's what makes TU such a good forum IMO.

Worm oil will soften it. HD sinking additive will soften it some and make it more durable.

You can order 1000 in black size 5, I'.d. .046, for 120.75 + 10% excise + shipping. Rosco dot com.

See what three layers gives you and go from there. If you get too many volcanoes add a layer. It's not perfect but nothing seems to work on everything. I'd like to have some plate too but when I looked at it, the free stuff was more appealing:-)

One good media I use is layers of newsprint. I use up to five layers on some colors. If it doesn't work right, add a layer. I think the material you are looking for is called Fluidizer Plate.

I remove the tape right after I dip it in my fluid bed then hang it in my oven. After I get my oven loaded, I bake as per the PP directions. I use Columbia so it's 375 for 15-20 minutes. I think if you'll go ahead and bake it, any glue will bake right off. Like I said, I haven't noticed anything that would cause issues after I take them out of my oven.

I haven't noticed any stickiness but I'm sure a bit of alcohol won't mess with the cured powder paint.

Only make for myself and share this hobby with my son. Make a few baits for friends of mine. Maybe when I retire, I'll sell a few baits. Maybe. Don't ever want to take the fun out of it.

Heck, I would contact them and see if they will take it back. You'll eat the shipping but maybe they will send you some good plastic.

I have one of those little trailers. Kinda like the 702 just a short version. I'd be glad to shoot a few and send your way. How many? Color matter?

Borax is what you can use to preserve those tails. We use it to dry pelts we want to preserve as trophies.

I couldn't get those pics to open up. I'll try some more. If it is a fine glitter, I did check and here's a link to LPO's version but there are others. http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Extra-Fine-Glitter/Extra-Fine-Glitter-1oz.html

I'm scratching my head a bit on this one too. It almost looks like a very fine gold glitter, hand poured as a vein and I can't tell what color it's in. Definitely a lot going on with that bait. I think that some .008 glitter is available.

I looked and that bait comes in a lot of different colors. Maybe a pick of the one you want to match would be helpful.

Wow. I'd say your moving along nicely at that pace. Never thought about de molding, de sprueing, and dipping as one process. Sounds fast.

Thanks MTM. I thought about that but wanted to draw from this tremendous resource first. Thanks again.

Now here's the real mystery. How do you bend the black platinum blades without cracking the finish?

What I have found ,and tried several different ways , is to use a vise. This will give you the most consistent bends IMO. You need a set of flat jaws and I just use two pieces of smooth angle iron. The serrated jaw of your vise will marr the stainless when you bend the blade. After you position the blade, take a piece of 1by and lay it against your blade and give it a sharp rap with your hammer. That's just one technique. I bet there are others. I never could get consistent bends with a couple sets of pliers.

I use just a few drops to help with the bagging of my plastic baits. The worm oil acts as a lubricant on the outside of the bait so they'll slide easily on the bag and against each other in the bagging process. That said, if you get a DINP based scent, you can do the same thing with it plus it adds scent to the baits. DINP is a plasticizer that will leech the scents into the baits. Most of these scents are made with essential oils and it takes very little of it to do the job. They cut it with worm oil so we can use it in bait making and plastics.

I have had some issues with the hawg sauce from UHS. My issues have been with bagging and storing my baits with it though. Might work out fine cooking it in. Let's just say, there's a shelf life and leave it at that. DINP based is what you want for longer term storage.

I've tried it with pliers, but you can't be consistent with the bends and your baits won't look that great. What I do is put some angled flat steel in my vise so the serrated jaws of the vise won't mar the finish on my stainless blades. Put them in that vise one at a time where you want your bend. Take a piece of board, I have a piece of oak, and lay it against your blade. Then you whack it with a hammer. Try to drive that board through your blade. You won't hurt anything but it puts a good uniform bend right where you need it. Lather, rinse, repeat, til you get all the blades bent you bought. Won't have to do that again. When your finished, you can stack em all together and there won't be a millimeters difference in them.