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Kasilofchrisn

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Kasilofchrisn last won the day on November 3 2019

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About Kasilofchrisn

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    Kenai Peninsula Alaska

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  1. Yeah I just got their update email this morning. No walk ins allowed into their business but the online store is open.
  2. So I just got an email from LPO (lure parts online)that per the state of Illinois they will be closed at least until early April. So if you need to place an order it must be in before 1pm cst tomorrow so they can get it shipped before they close. Here's the email. Friday, March 20 2020 Beat the mandated COVID-19 shutdown! Order by 1pm CST tomorrow (Sat, March 21) and we'll still be able to ship your order before the shutdown. The state of Illinois is shutting down tomorrow (Saturday, Mar 21) due to COVID-19. We will, however, be able to ship all orders placed before 1pm tomorrow. If you are going to need anything in the next couple of weeks, we recommend you get it ordered by the deadline, and we'll get it shipped out for you. During the shutdown, our web store will remain open for online orders. The shipping of orders, however, will be disrupted by the shutdown. Phone hours will likely be reduced. More info on phone hours will be communicated next week. In light of these circumstances, we recommend you get your supplies before the shutdown goes into effect. Shutdown will be in effect until April 7, 2020. Last chance to get your supplies!
  3. Like Apdriver said they don't cut the end it's made via a wireforming tool such as a Hagen's or a twistech. Cut to length then bend the loop on the end and twist(wrap) to finish.
  4. Why the need for a silver hook? Caught plenty of fish on my homeade shad darts but never thought the hook color made a difference. I actually prefer the black nickel hooks myself for any jig mold that accept a version of them.
  5. I don't use the Loon products but I do use AlumiUV to secure the eyes on my jigs. It works great for me. I do find if my powder paint isn't completely flat I can sometimes get some lifting that doesn't seal under the AlumiUV. If say when I dip in my fluid bed and one corner of the eye socket is paint heavy one of the edges will lift. Sometimes if I don't catch it then the UV has cured and the eye isn't sealed. So I make sure the eye socket is flat or the eye has been glued down properly with the glue set before adding the UV and it isn't an issue. Also I have had issues where I was adding an eye that was too big and had similar issues. So I also need to make sure I'm adding the correct size eye for the socket. Hope this helps.
  6. When I said there were no secrets in regards to parts vendors I was specifically talking about the individual forum members who do not sell tackle parts. It makes sense that those selling parts want you to buy from them and not cut them out. But why would I as a private individual care if you buy hooks or blades from the same sources as me? And since there isn't a muskie within what 1,000+ miles of me I'm not going to be a competitor in the musky lure market. Many of us on this forum do not sell so we do not care if you know who we buy parts from we just want to help others learn the hobby of tackle crafting. Those who sell I can understand that viewpoint as I'm sure you can as well. One thing you may find when dealing with wholesale vendors is that they may have minimum order amounts. Sometimes it can be 5,000 or 10,000 of a particular size. I've bought such large quantities before and I'll likely never use them all. Barlow's can sell/use that many as can the shops with jigs on the Walmart shelves. But not the average Joe making a few for himself and his buddies. And just because you mentioned it you were not the first on this forum to mention the MuskyShop.com . I've seen several posts over the years where they were mentioned. You may need to order a custom mold for your 8" grub. I know I had to go that route for my large saltwater jigs. Especially since I make some of the world's largest lead based fishing jigs. I had custom molds made and I'm sure glad I did. They cost more but it's worth it to me. Check out Shawn Collins customs or CNCmoldsnstuff.com . Both can make what your looking for. Spendy but quality and you'll be the only one with that mold design.
  7. One aspect of the Lee pots is they do sometimes drip. Some drip constantly but mine only occasionally does this. I highly recommend a pot, burner, and ladle for making ingots. That way your not putting dirty scrap in your good bottom pour pot. I feel many have serious drip issues because they continually put dirty scrap in their pot. Putting only clean fluxed ingots in your pot helps keep it much cleaner and you'll have less problems. That and I keep all those nasty fumes outside when making ingots from old scrap. Only cleaned fluxed ingots go into my shop and my bottom pour pot. On another note casting my own is just part of the fun for me. I actually enjoy it. I also cast my own bullets, sling shot pellets, sinkers, etc. Personally I want the ability to be able to do this myself. And when I give my jigs as gifts I can say I made that. Not just the paint but cast, cleaned, painted, etc. To each their own though.
  8. Nothing secretive about a parts supplier. It's definitely not like a fishing spot as the vendors always have more to sell. I have used Hagen's a few times with good results. That's another place to check. But you also need to define what bulk means to you? I buy components by the 100 count, 500 count, and rarely by the 1,000 count. Some companies like Hagen's have minimum order amounts or charge extra for smaller quantities. But if your looking to buy 5,000+ then Hagen's, Lakeland, Worth, and Rosco are your best bets. Of course if your buying in those quantities you'd want to be sure that your going to sell that many. Buying in bulk saves money but you can also get stuck with thousands of components you didn't sell. I sold things for a few years but then realized the off season was slow and in season I didn't have time to fish myself because I was making stuff for other fishermen. I either had to go bigger and start advertising, website etc. or give up the selling. I had the oportunity to get featured in a magazine through a friend who was a repeat customer and all that but decided not to. It wasn't so much fun anymore. So I gave it up and now only make for family and friends and I'm much happier for it. Of course this was all while working a job that actually paid the bills. Good luck!
  9. Boy seems like a lot of questions. Obviously your just strating out so that's expected. I really like Rosco split rings. I usually find them on eBay. Rosco has a minimum order of 5,000 and I usually only need 1,000 at a time. I use the #6xh on my saltwater jigs and they hold up to fish over 120# quite easily. But they have a wide range of sizes. You should also check out Barlow's tackle and Jann's Netcraft both have treated me well though I use Barlow's the most. There is also the Musky shop. Never used them but I know they carry musky specific components. Hook brands will depend on what hooks your mold calls for and/or what it will fit.
  10. My guess is the mold is made of graphite. Same stuff as pencil lead. If I'm correct then it would easily stand up to lead melting. A friend of mine has several small graphite molds he uses to pour melted gold into small ingots. His is an open pour style mold though. Not sure how graphite would hold up to repeated lead castings or how it would work as a two piece mold.
  11. Personally I prefer to cure my powder paint them just clear coat the eyes in the UV. I'm using Alumi UV currently which cures in roughly the same time as a toaster oven cure. But the UV takes longer to put on and I had to build a UV light box to do a bunch of jigs at once. So even more expense. Check the price on the UV stuff. Mine was a bit pricey so I prefer not to use it unnecessarily. Granted I make much larger jigs than most people. But it shouldn't be that hard to get a good cure on your jigs in the toaster oven. Just need to trouble shoot it a bit.
  12. I'm aware of that. But I really want to create my own from my own casting. Just a personal preference.
  13. You know that's not a bad way to go Mark. Have him make a full size tail mold and if testing isn't good modify it and test again. If needed I could then get him to make another smaller tail mold at that point.
  14. No I cannot. You see he has the bodies designed in a CAD program which is a scaled down version of a mold he already made and I already own. He was going to make the tails smaller in the OD as the jigs got smaller. But then was looking at the commercial versions realized most used the same sized OD tail. But either way he has to make a new mold with which to inject the plastic tails that will fit the smaller jig bodies. So there is no prototype. If I have him ship the mold without the tails so that I could test different ones then it will likely take a few extra months to get all of this complete. I was hoping to be making jigs out of this to use for this icefishing season.
  15. So I'm having a mold maker make me a jigging rapala style mold like the other one he made (yes the one I posted about here)but in smaller sizes. The good news he is almost done with it. But he has some questions in regards to the tail size. He is machining a mold so he can inject the hard plastic tails. His original plan was to downsize the tails as he downsized the jig. But he noticed commercial versions all had similar sized tails(OD). So what's your opinion on this? Downsize the tail as you downsize the jig or keep the tails the same size even if the jig gets smaller? I wish we had a 3D printer to try different samples but I don't think it's in the cards on this project. Thanks, Chris
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