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Kasilofchrisn

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About Kasilofchrisn

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  1. This is the piece that I originally made to use with a vibrating hand sander for the vibration which as I stated above was a failure in a few ways. I'm thinking I may reattach this aluminum piece to it but instead use it to mount the air pump on. Overall this vibratory fluid bed system works pretty good at reducing/eliminating volcanoes in powder paints that do not want to fluidize properly. Overall cost wasn't too bad either though I never have added it all up.
  2. . So this came up in another thread and I figured I would post it here. I made a vibratory fluid bed awhile back and some people were asking about it. I used aluminum C channel for the base. Then I drilled and tapped it for some cone shaped spring feet and bolted them on. Originally I built a T piece for attaching a vibratory sander. This didn't work well so was eventually removed. I then bolted on some 3" ABS flat caps. Bolting was required as installing and removing cups would rip them off with just epoxy. A hole was drilled in each cap near the bottom to accommodate a plastic aquarium valve which was epoxied in. I then attached a small vibratory motor on the back of each fluid bed securing to the base. The wires from the motors feed into a speed controller. The current power source is a small(old snowmobile) 12v battery. Cups are made by cutting some 3" ABS (or PVC) pipe. Put in a knock out test cap and knock out the center and discard. Retain outer ring. Cover with Tyvek and replace ring. You now have a cup with a tight membrane on the bottom. Use another knock out test cap as a lid for the cup. I use a cheap 30/60 aquarium air pump from Walmart for air. For a 2" fluid bed press in a 2x3 adapter and 2" cup. This way you now have a dual 3" or 2" fluid bed. Vibration is adjustable via the speed controller and air via the aquarium valve. Vibratory motors and speed controller came from eBay. Spring feet from McMaster-Carr. C channel was scrap from work. Aquarium parts from Walmart and ABS from Home Depot. It works well for me though I'm sure I'll tweak it some more. And likely add an adapter for outlet plug in capability.
  3. Sorry to hear that you have given up on lead-based tackle. I'm guessing there's something in the methods you use your hygiene practices, or somewhere in there that is causing you to have high lead levels. I once worked in a lead/zinc mine and was covered head-to-toe in the stuff. Had my blood drawn every 3 months to check for lead. While my lead levels did go up I never got to a point where I was taken out of the mine. After a year-and-a-half I took a transfer to a job with a better schedule, better pay and less responsibility. Since then my blood levels have dropped significantly and I'm currently sitting at 1 mg/dl as of last month even though I cast hundreds of pounds of it every year. And yes my hands have been black from lead many many many times while cleaning up lead jigs, sinkers, down rigger weights etc. Proper hand-washing and good hygiene practices have kept me safe.
  4. I switched from Devcon2T to Alumi-UV and am really liking it for the eyes. It seems to hold well and yet cures in minutes in my UV light box. But also has unlimited pot life. It's a bit spendy but a quart will last me forever. I'm sure the Clear Coat would also work well.
  5. I've done jigs up to 48 oz and Jigs up to 10 and 1/2 in Long in some of my fluid bed cups. If you build your fluid beds and cups properly you can easily do larger fishing jigs in them.
  6. Personally I never dump a fluid bed cup and/or clean it out. At least not unless I'm getting rid rid of or am out of that paint color all together. It doesn't matter whether my cups have fluidizing played in them Tyvek or whatever I have a heated dry area to store them and I've not had issues storing my paint in the cups. I do use knockout test caps as lids to keep foreign objects out of my paint while it's being stored. You can buy fluidizing plate from McMaster-Carr. I bought some on eBay once but when I was asked to find the vendor again I wasn't able to find them. I'm guessing it was a one-time deal for the seller. Just be aware when I cut my own fluidizing plate I was not able to find a hole saw the exact size of the inside diameter of a 2 inch PVC pipe. That meant I had to find the closest hole saw that was bigger and then used a belt sander to sand them down to the correct dimensions to go in the cups.
  7. It's called fluidizing plate. I've bought some before. I'm not sure it's really that much of an advantage. I mostly use Tyvek on mine now.
  8. I actually run a vibratory fluid bed for certain colors. It is an aluminum base made from C channel with conical shaped spring feet. I use flat end caps permanently affixed to the base with a screw and a little bit of epoxy. I have small electric vibratory motors glued to the back of these bases and the aluminum base. I have two fluid beds mounted on it and in between them is a switch that allows me to adjust the amount of vibration I give them. For providing air I use a 30/60 aquarium pump I bought from Walmart. My cups are made from PVC or ABS using knockout test caps and Tyvek. my flat caps are 3in so I can use 3" cups or install a 3"-2" adapter and use 2" fluid bed cups. If anybody is interested I could post some pics when I get some time to take them. Some paints just don't want to fluidize and I still have some that want to give me minor volcanoes. But with this system it seems to work much better and some paints that used to give me volcanoes don't give me any. As with all powder paint they should be stirred well or shaken up before the fluid bed is turned on that helps me with a lot of colors.
  9. I use the jig clamps from TJ's tackle. This holds them upright so any drips run down the hook where it is easily removed.
  10. I guess your one of those who will never quite get it. If I was looking to save money I'd be much better off buying nearly all my tackle. I certainly don't save much if any money making my own. Especially if I place a value on my time spent making them. But I do enjoy the hobby of making tackle. And catching a fish on your own homemade tackle is a pretty awesome feeling. Once you get the hang of these, which doesn't take long, they don't take long at all to make. And there not that difficult. The only ones that frustrate me at all are the ones that were not designed for the mold. Those can be a pain to get lined up correctly. But the standard shapes/sizes are relatively easy and fun to make.
  11. Gold Aberdeen hooks are what I buy. Something like the Mustad 3261GL light wire bait hook Or the eagle claw 202. But the gold hooks is the key not bronze. I get them anywhere I buy the blades usually Reinke brothers, lure parts online, or Jannsnetcraft.
  12. I've used Sean in the past but he can be difficult to get a hold of and only does what work he wants to do. You might try Bob Lalonde at CNC molds nstuff. https://www.cncmolds.com/webstore/ Bob is a member of the form here and a really good guy to work with. He takes all orders on a first-come first-serve basis. Keep in mind that depending on how difficult your mold is to make it is going to be a lot more expensive than buying a do it mold. It wouldn't surprise me if having a custom mold made cost you a couple hundred bucks or more.
  13. A few other key tips I forgot to mention. You want to use an Aberdeen style hook for these. Bronze hooks do not hold solder very well and I would not recommend them. Also for those inexperienced in this type of soldering you want to hold the soldering iron against The jig and hook until the components are hot enough to melt the solder on their own. If you melt the solder by pressing against the soldering iron you're going to burn up your tips pretty fast and you won't have the best adhesion. To source the blades I used to buy them from Reinke Brothers and Jan's net craft but I've also bought them from a company called anglers Mart. Anglers Mart has some innovative new shapes and blades but some of them do not fit in this mold very well. They have some fish shaped blades and some ant blades and they are bit tricky to get into this mold. I have not tried the ice ant but the fish shaped used in this mold does work if you play around with it some and find one of the cavities that provides the closest fit. Another popular way to paint these is to use nail polish or as some guys call it "male" polish. you can get a whole host of colors in nail polish including glow-in-the-dark Etc. I've just never been a fan of nail polish in general but it is an option that is available almost anywhere. It doesn't take very long to get the hang of making these and you can whip out quite a few of them in an afternoon.
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