Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Kasilofchrisn last won the day on July 8

Kasilofchrisn had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

113 Excellent

About Kasilofchrisn

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kenai Peninsula Alaska

Recent Profile Visitors

1,257 profile views
  1. I buy my foil on eBay. Prices are good as is the foil. I buy the stuff for a Kingsley paper foiling machine.
  2. Depends on how many jigs your making. If your making a few thousand you might save a few cents each making your own wires and maybe it's worth your time? maybe? But personally I prefer to buy them. So much easier and saving a couple cents each isn't worth my time trying to make them. My favorite ones are made using a 3D holographic foil. I posted a tutorial on how I make mine using foil awhile back. A search of this site should find it. You'll have to buy some special materials. And it's more involved. But I personally like the look of them. Do they outfish plain powder coated jigs? Being as fish species and behavior can vary I'd say the jury's still out on that one.
  3. Me too! This seems like a logical idea for me as well. A master list of molds/numbers could save a few minutes of fumbling through looking for the right mold.
  4. Watch this video and you'll learn how they do it at Cast Industries the largest tackle manufacturer in the United States.
  5. I just keep mine on some shelves. It's just some used pressboard type shelving. But I do group them together on the shelves. Sinker molds on a bottom shelf, freshwater jig molds on another shelf, saltwater jig molds on the top shelf, etc. I only have about a hundred and twenty molds though. I do need to sit down and make a master list of everything I own just for easy reference. Especially when one of my friends will ask if I can make something and I know there's a mold for it but I can't remember if I own it.
  6. I'll second Bob Lalonde at https://www.cncmolds.com/webstore/ I have two of His molds and am happy with them.
  7. This is the piece that I originally made to use with a vibrating hand sander for the vibration which as I stated above was a failure in a few ways. I'm thinking I may reattach this aluminum piece to it but instead use it to mount the air pump on. Overall this vibratory fluid bed system works pretty good at reducing/eliminating volcanoes in powder paints that do not want to fluidize properly. Overall cost wasn't too bad either though I never have added it all up.
  8. . So this came up in another thread and I figured I would post it here. I made a vibratory fluid bed awhile back and some people were asking about it. I used aluminum C channel for the base. Then I drilled and tapped it for some cone shaped spring feet and bolted them on. Originally I built a T piece for attaching a vibratory sander. This didn't work well so was eventually removed. I then bolted on some 3" ABS flat caps. Bolting was required as installing and removing cups would rip them off with just epoxy. A hole was drilled in each cap near the bottom to accommodate a plastic aquarium valve which was epoxied in. I then attached a small vibratory motor on the back of each fluid bed securing to the base. The wires from the motors feed into a speed controller. The current power source is a small(old snowmobile) 12v battery. Cups are made by cutting some 3" ABS (or PVC) pipe. Put in a knock out test cap and knock out the center and discard. Retain outer ring. Cover with Tyvek and replace ring. You now have a cup with a tight membrane on the bottom. Use another knock out test cap as a lid for the cup. I use a cheap 30/60 aquarium air pump from Walmart for air. For a 2" fluid bed press in a 2x3 adapter and 2" cup. This way you now have a dual 3" or 2" fluid bed. Vibration is adjustable via the speed controller and air via the aquarium valve. Vibratory motors and speed controller came from eBay. Spring feet from McMaster-Carr. C channel was scrap from work. Aquarium parts from Walmart and ABS from Home Depot. It works well for me though I'm sure I'll tweak it some more. And likely add an adapter for outlet plug in capability.
  9. Sorry to hear that you have given up on lead-based tackle. I'm guessing there's something in the methods you use your hygiene practices, or somewhere in there that is causing you to have high lead levels. I once worked in a lead/zinc mine and was covered head-to-toe in the stuff. Had my blood drawn every 3 months to check for lead. While my lead levels did go up I never got to a point where I was taken out of the mine. After a year-and-a-half I took a transfer to a job with a better schedule, better pay and less responsibility. Since then my blood levels have dropped significantly and I'm currently sitting at 1 mg/dl as of last month even though I cast hundreds of pounds of it every year. And yes my hands have been black from lead many many many times while cleaning up lead jigs, sinkers, down rigger weights etc. Proper hand-washing and good hygiene practices have kept me safe.
  10. I switched from Devcon2T to Alumi-UV and am really liking it for the eyes. It seems to hold well and yet cures in minutes in my UV light box. But also has unlimited pot life. It's a bit spendy but a quart will last me forever. I'm sure the Clear Coat would also work well.
  11. I've done jigs up to 48 oz and Jigs up to 10 and 1/2 in Long in some of my fluid bed cups. If you build your fluid beds and cups properly you can easily do larger fishing jigs in them.
  12. Personally I never dump a fluid bed cup and/or clean it out. At least not unless I'm getting rid rid of or am out of that paint color all together. It doesn't matter whether my cups have fluidizing played in them Tyvek or whatever I have a heated dry area to store them and I've not had issues storing my paint in the cups. I do use knockout test caps as lids to keep foreign objects out of my paint while it's being stored. You can buy fluidizing plate from McMaster-Carr. I bought some on eBay once but when I was asked to find the vendor again I wasn't able to find them. I'm guessing it was a one-time deal for the seller. Just be aware when I cut my own fluidizing plate I was not able to find a hole saw the exact size of the inside diameter of a 2 inch PVC pipe. That meant I had to find the closest hole saw that was bigger and then used a belt sander to sand them down to the correct dimensions to go in the cups.
  13. It's called fluidizing plate. I've bought some before. I'm not sure it's really that much of an advantage. I mostly use Tyvek on mine now.
  14. I actually run a vibratory fluid bed for certain colors. It is an aluminum base made from C channel with conical shaped spring feet. I use flat end caps permanently affixed to the base with a screw and a little bit of epoxy. I have small electric vibratory motors glued to the back of these bases and the aluminum base. I have two fluid beds mounted on it and in between them is a switch that allows me to adjust the amount of vibration I give them. For providing air I use a 30/60 aquarium pump I bought from Walmart. My cups are made from PVC or ABS using knockout test caps and Tyvek. my flat caps are 3in so I can use 3" cups or install a 3"-2" adapter and use 2" fluid bed cups. If anybody is interested I could post some pics when I get some time to take them. Some paints just don't want to fluidize and I still have some that want to give me minor volcanoes. But with this system it seems to work much better and some paints that used to give me volcanoes don't give me any. As with all powder paint they should be stirred well or shaken up before the fluid bed is turned on that helps me with a lot of colors.
  • Create New...