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Grey Ghost

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    St Paul, MN

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  1. Go with the smallest available. After applying the top coat, if any flakes are popping out, use a razor blade to cut them flush to the surface. The apply a second topcoat. I am new to glitter but have really "practiced" through trial and error.
  2. Great question. I have heard it said that a horizontal line tie lends itself to a more true left/right glide, less apt to the up/down jerkbait action. And the vertical line tie lends itself to a more erratic up/down + left/right action. That being said, I have gliders that do the opposite of what's said above.
  3. I just got done clear coating my first lure with Etex, so not a lot of experience with it. However, I have LOTS of rod building experience and use Flex Coat which is very similar to Etex, just with more flexibility for parabolic rod bends. Anyway, the absolute best thing I ever did to help with mixing epoxy to coat rod guide wraps was to go out and buy a bunch of childrens medicine plungers. Pull back the plunger to the correct measurement on Part A, match the other plunger to the same measurement on Part B and done. So easy, no need to "eyeball".
  4. Oh, Nope spraying the top coat. I figured I'd put on top coat #1 with Etex Lite, let it turn to cure, then spray on that clear glitter paint. Then put on top coat #2. I'm very familiar with Etex as I also build custom rods. I usually use Flexcoat for rods, but they are essentially the same thing. Have the lure turner ready to go, just made some modifications to my rod turner. Question on the Etex and coating over laquer based materials. Do you think i'll need to do any primer to ensure proper bond?
  5. Oh, forgot to give you all an update on what i finally bought for the airbrush. I bought an Iwata Eclipse BS. I'm no air brush expert as this is my first attempt at any painting with an AB, but I found it to be AWESOME! Had to play a bit with the pearl paints to thin it out a bit. I definately know what you all say on how non-properly thined out paint doesn't spray well. I had a couple blow ups with the pearl orange where it wasn't thinned out enough, got built up and "POPed" creating a splatter. Had to wipe it up as best I could to repaint, which did create some blemishes, but overall, I am VERY happy with the work. When looking at it in the sunlight, those irredescent colors really shine. I cant wait to put the clear coat on top. Musky fishing opener here in MN starts next weekend. So, It'll be ready by then. Also an update on one of my previous posts on "Filthy glider action, but floats", regarding a new Amma Bama glider I bought that I was concerned with it floating rather than the normal slow sinking. Well, I was out in Wisconsin on Saturday for the Northern WI musky opener, and....... The thing certainly works! I landed a nice 46 incher with it. Totally inhaled it in 12 feet on the edge of a cabbage bed. Also had 2 northern pike on it and another musky follow. I just cant wait to get my musky lure creations wet and scuffed up with teeth. I have 2 other lures close to painting. One is weighted and primed, just need to paint. The other is my copy of an Amma Bama, only much thicker. It is 1.5 inches in width vs. the normal 1 to 1.25 inches. I will try to weight my version with the weight high in the bait with the intention of creating a really unstable belly roll. We'll see on that one, as I have a lot of weighting tests to do. I'll keep you all posted! And again, Thanks for the help!
  6. Thanks to the help I got on this board, I have almost finished my first airbrushed lure. I still need to add the black/blue gill plate on my version of a Bluegill and also need to do eyes. I will be playing around with making an eye in a 3/4 inch diameter, which I plan on building up with epoxy to make it "pop". That is next to do. Once finished with those two items, it is time for topcoat. I'll be using ETex Lite in 2 coats. I have a question on this. I plan on adding a light finish of this sparkly laquer clear paint that has irridescent blue and green glitter (VERY small, micro). I am thinking of doing the first coat of Etex, then to spray on the sparkly laquer. Then spray on the final top coat. As for the paint scheme on my "bluegill". All createx paint. Started with a pearlized white for base coat, followed by a pearl yellow, then built up on sides with transparent light green followed by transparent forest green on the back. Then did the scale pattern & bar pattern with irredescent purple on sides and back. Then did irredescent turquois on the back and slightly down the sides and around the eye's and gill area. Finished up the breast with a pearl orange. Finally, I added a final smal scale pattern for the tail half of the lure with pearl gold.
  7. Also on black topwaters. Usually we throw these baits at low light conditions. The black color really shines in these conditions since the colors we or fish see is totally dependant on a light source. Black absorbs more available light than any other color, meaning it is the last to wash out as black is always black. On topwaters at dusk or low light, I want that bait to be seen, and black is just very imposing with minimal light. I absolutely love throwing topwater, I just have so much confidence in black patterns. One I really like is the old luckycraft Sammy pattern with yellow verticle bars on black. Great contrasting of colors. They don't make that pattern anymore
  8. I too like white bottomed topwater baits but usually stick with black as if provides a large profile for the fish to see. I fish more stained or muddy water so i think a larger profile helps them see the bait, but also gives the appearance of larger prey. In clear water I would go with the more natural white belly.
  9. Black. All Topwater lures.
  10. It has been said previously in these reply's, but could be said again. A good sales tactic is to say a high number of bearings, but that doesn't necessarily make it a high end reel. Lower cost reels with say 8 bearings vs. a higher cost reel with 3 bearings make the customer feel better for buying more bearings at a lower price. Problem is, those lower cost reels a lot of time have lower quality bearings that wear down faster or are just not as smooth.
  11. Well, I bought the compressor. 6 gallon, 2 HP & 150 PSI. I got a good deal on it and wanted something small enough for me to tote around for DIY home projects. I filled it up and turned the pressure down to 45 PSI and let the needle (for football's) let air out until empty. Took a good long while, so I should have plenty of air capacity to do a lure at a time, which is my plan. Make 2 at a time, again, not intended for "production" style lure building. I also ordered the Iwata Eclipse BS, cant wait to get it! I have two 7 inch blanks I carved/sanded out of Poplar to play with. In MN, Musky opener is the first weekend of June, I hope to have them all finished up and water ready by then. I'll post pick's of my first 2 air brush painted lures. As for paint, I have none at the moment, but plan on going with Createx "wicked" colors. I absolutely love the pearl finish and the metalic colors for more flash. I'll probably experiment on paper to see how the layers work. I intend to paint one in a perch pattern, and the other in a bluegill pattern. I may be a bit too agressive in saying they will be ready by the musky opener, as I have yet to seal the bodies up for weight testing. I have not made a crankbait in ages and the last one was a copy so weighting wasn't too much of an issue. The two lures, one will be a 7.5 inch glider jerkbait with a squirly tail (twister tail) attached to the end. The crankbait is intended to be a 7 inch shallow diver (3-6 ft) with a lot of boyancy to back it up out of weeds. As I usually do when tinkering, I probably over engineer things and think and rethink and then rethink again, on things. I hope I'll have time to finish in 3 weeks. I'll let you all know. Thanks for the input everyone.
  12. BobP... I am a musky fisherman. The smallest bait I throw is 6 inches, typically I throw 9 or 10 inch lures. I do fish bass but I don't think i'll be making many of these. Do you feel the 1/8 cup size in the br would be sufficient for musky baits up to 12 inches long by say 2.5 to 3 inches tall. I have zero air brush experience and really have no frame of reference. I will not be making lures production style, just for me, my son and father in law.
  13. I haven't heard much about the Neo. What are some thoughts on it? Anyone use it?
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