Silo1688

Does anyone remember who makes the g87 clone? Thanks -Geo

I've repainted a couple a large muskie baits for a customer and I normally dip or brush on the MCU. This however due the shear size I would like to spray it! My area is well ventilated for this as I've been taking great precautions. So now to the million dollar question.... What do you all use to thin down the MCU? I'm going to try a few of drops of acetone? Anyone used this approach? Keeping on spray top coats, to those who have used this.... what's your opinion and results in using the spray version outdoor spar urethane with UV protection? Thanks in advance. --George

Hi everyone! Its been a long time since I was here. I'm strongly considering moving from ETex (brushing) to MCU for dipping. I've never used MCU and I've been reading as much as I could on the tap the can method, but I have a question. After the can is tapped, what then? How do you apply the MCU? Do you dip them, is so then how? Brush on the MCU? I really appreciate everyone's help -George

Hey everyone! I've been reading the posts over the last few weeks, and I've noticed some members are stating that microwaves greater than 1000 watts are better to heat plastic up because they do not create as many bubbles in the plastic. Do you guys know why this is? Or is it something that is just accepted. I do have an older microwave that is less than 1000 watts and I've noticed that I do get quite a bit of bubbles. I thought it was the way I was mixing my plastic or if I was mixing it too aggressively. I have been very careful to heat at the recommended temperature and slowly mix of plastic yet I still get bubbles. Initially I thought it was the plastic but now I read about the microwaves I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Anyway a little insight would be appreciated and as always tight lines. George

@hawghunters, Wow, great idea. I make my A-rig with SS wire and JB weld for the head. However I still have a bunch of JB Weld Putty left over and I'm pretty sure i can mold into a sb head. Sometimes it's the obvious that smacks us (ie; me) right in the melon. great idea! --George

I'll try when I get home

I tried. The picture file was too big

This is my first attempt to make a custom homemade swim bait out of clay. Then I plan to make an RTV mold then create a plastic "master". Then I can create multiple cavity mold. 1) is my approach correct? Should I change anything?

Had anyone used windshield repair resin for top coat? I'm still a dedicated user of D2T.but while I was getting my oil changed there was an ad for clear chip resistant resin. Just wondering. Take care everyone! George@Mythik

I read an article somewhere, where these high school kids poured their own swimbait heads using 2-part epoxy. They used it on homemade A-rigs where it would be very light (staying near the top) and would burn it over submerged grass. I'm really interested in trying it out. Here in AZ we don't have alot of grass in the lakes, but there are a couple that do. I think the combined weight of a "light-weight" A-rig would be enough to get some distance in the cast.

Sorry for the lame question.... What is the Thompson F?

I use them at the time. great opaque colors. I agree the pearl colors have to be thinned way down. It's a pain to heat set in between colors. Its also really important that you clean the brush very thoroughly otherwise it's gunks up super easy

I make mine for profit. I sell consignment at local shops and it pays for my tournament costs (3-4/year).

Can you give a product name for the off brand paint mixer the you found on amazon?