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  1. I may try this just to see if alcohol would soften it. I don't care about dull because I could always shoot it with clear SB or dip it. But I think I could also just spray over it like you both mention.
  2. Anyone ever try to remove paints from painted soft plastics? Any luck at all? Sometimes I have some colorations that I just don't like and want to change them so if anyone has any idea how to remove coatings like this I'd love to hear it. I'm not even sure how all of them are put on.. I think some are powders that are then heated, I don't think those will come off at all. I'm hoping there are maybe some options for the other types of coatings like dips, sb (solvent based) coats, or vpi coats or what ever else is used to paint soft plastics.. anyone have any ideas. mainly I'm trying to clean up some big musky baits that are $35 each, LOL..
  3. I've used epoxy over different materials and it worked great
  4. great post. I prototyped a soft plastic over 7 years until I finalized it. About year 5, I was dating a health nut and she had me question the fumes and liquids. Originally I had watched a very popular well known lure maker say the fumes were completely safe.. whatever, or at least I know now. I took a test to see how much plasticizer were in my body from skin contact and fumes. Of those that have ever taken the blood test to measure this, I scored in the 93 percentile. That means that I was within the 93% in highest accumulation of plasticizer in blood compared to everyone that's been tested. I started detoxing immediately. At some point I'll retake the blood test. I do have some minor health affects from it but it will probably be more of a long term test to see what's really happened or not. Plasticizers are endocrine disrupters so it could really show up as anything, not just cancer although cancer is an possibility. I will say that I lost 15 lbs during the time I was working with the plastic weekly, and since I detoxed I was able to put 10lbs back on. Do I still work with baits, yes, but I adhere to similar practices above.
  5. What's the word on the hardest coating. Our saltwater fish have more pointy teeth and also I'm finding the super sharp trebbles are penetrating clear coats and once that happens it seems the clears are flaking and braking off which means they have low adhesion qualities.. these are mostly commercially available lure manufactures products. Whats the hardest clear with the best adhesive qualities? ppg auto clear (shop line 2 part clear coat) vs Diamond coat vs UV Cure Which has the best adhesion to the paint? least chipping and flaking from the hooks and teethe? Diamond coat states very flexible.. but is it also chip and tear resistant after it's penetrated with a hook point or teeth?
  6. Could a heat gun be used to heat a large wood lure hot enough. I'm talking Musky Baits... 2inch diameter, then press hot rubber pad to lure with foil... How would you do larger diameter plugs?
  7. any idea how hard emanmel spray paint is compared to automotive. Id assume its not as good a bond / not as hard. yes, with having to use a final topcoat I used to think I could get away with using the acrylics but the bond is so weak that once the topcoat gets punctured then the topcoat starts flaking off. we're using super sharp hooks and our trout and reds do tear up the lures paint jobs pretty well. Mirrolure uses some type of baked on two part paint. It may be an epoxy type two part paint.. I'd love to figure out how they are doing that.. their lures stand up to the punishment the best. I've painted with high end two part epoxy boat paint and it's hard as ***** but I'd only shoot that through an extermal mix airbrush.. it's nasty nasty stuff but super tough. and it's expensive too so I think that would be overkill... but I've found automotive paint in small quantities .. touch up paint.. not sure if that's the same quality as the good stuff the body shops are painting with though. I guess we'll see. I'll try to do some test ... enamel vs automotive vs others... but it will take a while.
  8. Thank you all for the input... I'm strictly doing this for fun.. it takes my mind of the fishing bisness...LOL. based on the feedback I went with an Iwata HP B.. .2needle. I can use the old Badger for broader strokes and use the Iwata for finer strokes. I'll look into the Wicked and Illustration paints next. Thank you all.
  9. Don't overlook reading this thread as well
  10. thanks bob, spot on to what I was thinking for what my needs would be.. I'll look at the .2 tips Anyone use a Grex ?
  11. Ok, thanks Cliff. I appreciate the amount of detail you put into the answer. time to buy something now. LOL
  12. I'm only making soft plastics.. actually the painting of lures is just a hobby of mine. There's several guys already in the customer lure painting market and that's way to labor intensive for me. As far as my epoxy top coat holding up.. it was devcon 2t. Over time it yellowed and we fish with a lot of white and bone so that's not too great. As for hardness it's very hard but like I said, my subcoats failed so with trout teeth and sharp as trebbles they will eventually chip and crack and havn't lasted too long. Some of the custom paint guys are using Automotive clear and I can tell it's hard enough. But I havn't liked their work so far ... so I figure I'll do my own or for a friend or two, and some muskie baits for the fall as well.
  13. Thanks Cliffs, any other recommendations on better quality air brush? I know everyone hates to give away their secret weapon and all but would love to see some other ideas.
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