Bassinfool
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Posts posted by Bassinfool
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You can fix the ones with bent tails just by dipping them in near boiling water and then laying them out as straight as possible.
Most guys are using clamshell packaging to try and prevent the bending. However, unless you're using formed packaging that conforms to individual baits it is possible you will still get some tail bending given enough time.
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On 3/25/2022 at 4:17 AM, smalljaw said:
I haven't found those hooks bigger than a 6/0. I have the 10786 which is the round bend version and it is on par with the Mustad 32786.
That's because I had the wrong hook in my mind
I was thinking of the 10413 which comes in 7/0. I have both the 11786BN in 3/0 for shaky heads and the 10413 in 7/0 for the magnum heads.
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I use them and they've been great. Very sharp and seem to stay sharp. I use them in smaller 3/0 for shaky heads all the way to 7/0 (maybe 8/0) for my magnum shaky heads and have nothing but good things to say about them.
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For me it is wholly dependent on what type of lure we're talking about.
Worms, fluke, stick baits, swimbaits- laminate
craws and creatures-swirl with some exceptions for colors that are predicated by being "natural" with a lighter belly and darker top AND will be presented to the fish with that orientation in mind.
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Green pumpkin and purple just flat out catches fish. Other than being a little tedious placing the halves back in the mold each time laminate plates are about the easiest way to get "perfect" laminated baits. Good work.
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Scuppernong
1 cup of plastic
30 drops scuppernong (Lureworks)
4 drops cherry red (Lureworks)
4 drops black (Lurecraft)
If you go to page 10 of the cookbook there is a picture in my post showing the color this makes. It's a pretty dark picture because it was beginning to rain but the color is pretty spot on. If you want to cloud it up, you can add salt or a very small amount of white to make it more opaque but I catch a ton of bass on this color every year. It is my go to color in the spring time in a lizard and does well in the summer as a 10-13" worm.
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I know I have posted a scuppernong match in the cookbook. I'll see if I can find it for you to get the exact drops but I know it uses black, scuppernong and cherry red dye.
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I have experienced bubbles in every brand of plastic given it lasts long enough for the humidity to get to it living in central Alabama. When that happens having a vacuum chamber is a literal life saver.
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I believe they just moved shops as well. Last molds I got from AI took about a month from placing the order to having them in my hands.
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I am partial to the Baitjunkys ribbon tail worm. You can buy it from lureworks. It has caught me a boat load of fish over the years, especially during the summer months.
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Base color has everything to do with the end effect. I have a bunch of colorshift powders. You can mix them with a transparent base, clear top coat, or brush them on. As for where you get them, there are a ton of different vendors out there. I recently purchased a bunch off of an etsy store, amazon, ebay, dipyourcar, custompaintingpearls are all viable options. In my experience, you get the most dramatic effects over a black base but some of the lighter powders also a do a great job adding a subtle shift when over white, white pearl or other lighter shades. You just have to do some experimenting to find what you want.
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My opinion on the matter is that attraction and triggering often time go hand in hand. One of the best examples I can think of are with big glide baits thrown in clear water. These big baits have a lot of "drawing power" with those slow, wide movements bringing in fish from a long distance away- I have had instances where I can see a fish close on the bait from maybe 10-15 feet away, get right on the tail of the bait and follow it all the way to the boat before turning away. Obviously this fish was attracted to the lure but didn't commit.
This is where the triggering part comes into play. Again, using the glide bait example, if I can see that I have a follower but they're not committing to the bait I will jerk my rod tip hard a few times to make it dart side to side, crank the reel handle hard a few times and kill the bait to let the bait slide off to one side or, depending on the bait, twitch it and make the bait do a 180 turn and face the fish. Often times these movements are enough to illicit a violent reaction from followers or turn them off completely- you really don't know until you try a few different things and start getting bites.
To summarize, attraction is what brings the fish to the bait but triggering them to bite appeals to their core predatory instinct making them lash out and commit to the bait.
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https://www.basstackle.com/8_Fat_Treat_Worm_p/196-kj-4.htm
It's a beast. I throw it on a Randy Howell Magnum shaky head jig I pour from Do-it, typically in 3/8 or 1/2 oz with a 7/0 hook.
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I has some of the V hooks that I use in my shaky heads and magnum shaky heads and they're bad to the bone. Very sharp, stout and hold fish well once they're hooked which is really important to me with the magnum heads.
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Man I hate to hear that his health issues finally caught up to him. I still have two old bears injectors, some hilite powders and a jar of blue flake from him that I just keep refilling.
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https://www.alternativelures.com/
This is one of the best sites I have found for blanks, swimbaits and glides in particular.
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If you have a hobby lobby near you they have some great pearl ex powders that are really affordable. I use their purple pearl for several of my baits and it looks really nice.
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I use a mix of chartreuse and dead on Neolime for mine
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I like very little yellow in my bone, just a hint. Mine is mostly white colorant, 1 drop of yellow and a drop or two of natural. You can adjust it to your liking.
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On 9/21/2016 at 1:11 PM, mark poulson said:
Toad,
WD 40 is illegal to use on or in baits in CA. Don't have a clue why. It is a killer catfish bait scent.
I used to know an old timer who used the old yellow/orange dial bar soap on a trotline and it worked like an absolute charm. Catfish truly will eat damn near anything it seems
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Hop on Facebook and look up Dakota Mcneill (Mcneill Exotics). I'm sure he can provide you with what you're looking for.
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On 3/9/2021 at 6:54 PM, alsworms said:
I can't remember who makes brown watermelon. Either MF or Lure Craft, but you might try that one. Or you could add a touch of brown melon to regular watermelon to darken it a bit.
Another option that worked for me is Lure Craft watermelon mixed with a touch of MF cinnamon. That made a nice green pumpkin.
Good luck!
MF makes the watermelon brown colorant; it's really thin but makes a fantastic color.
As for myself, I use several different colorants to make my version of watermelon just to give the baits a little more depth. I use watermelon 101 from lureworks, some lime green from dead on, some natural from lurecraft and some green pumpkin 109 from lureworks as well. Is it necessary to make it that complicated? No, absolutely not. You can get a great watermelon color with watermelon 101 all by itself, but I want to make my colors my own which is why I add the other colorants. I added a photo of some worms I did in gallery and will drop the wink below.
http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/21027-straight-up-watermelon-seed/
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14 hours ago, Tiderunner said:
This was the weekend. And sure enough on Friday I ordered my first gallon of Dead On Worm blend. Came today. Poured a dozen senkos in the Yamamoto cnc mold. No tacky thing going on but man! Bubble City,
Any suggestions to fix this? I did nothing different with the plastic than I've ever done with other brands. Baits are super soft too. That can be fixed, But are the bubbles a normal thing with dead on?
I had used a moss green dye and I'm wondering if that may have separated and the watery part caused a boil?
First temps were at 360. Bare plastic senko weighed 8.5g added salt weight went to 10.0 a little stiffer.
I can live with all that, but the bubbles!
I had issues with Dead On bubbling as well to the point that I bought a vacuum chamber. Depending on how much you bought and what container it came in, I would HIGHLY suggest that you not shake the container and instead use a plastic tip mixer that you attach to a drill. Experienced much less bubbling when mixing this way.
In my experience and considering where I live (central Alabama), moisture is normally the number one culprit when I get bubbles in my plastic. Moisture can also get in your colorants, flake, powders, and other things we put in our plastic. Salt is also an absolute magnet for moisture.
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It probably won't be as clear as fresh plastisol but as long you mix it sufficiently it should still work just fine.
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Strike King Rage Tail Craw
in Soft Plastics
Posted
Ap already mentioned that Bobs is where you can get this mold to make some yourself but you can also buy some commercially from Creme lures as well.