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Captain Ron

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Posts posted by Captain Ron

  1. I tried Devcon 2ton one time and that was over 2 years ago, couldn't wait to find something better. Along came Flex Coat rob builders 2 part epoxy Lite formula and the rest is history. As far as I'm concerned it doesn't get any better than Flex Coat. Yes it is expensive, but it goes a long ways.

  2. What I like about the 3D clear stencils is, with proper care they last a life time and each stencil has a L/H and a R/H side. They are symmetrical about. I have used the frisket film on some projects if its something I don't want to paint again and that is fine, but the 3d stencils are the bomb as far as I am concerned.

  3. Those are some really nice stencils Mr. Hughes. :worship:  I've made a few vacuum formed stencils, but haven't tried the heat shrink tubing yet. It looks like it would be much easier.

     

    Ben

    Hi Ben, thank you for the complement. I researched this process for several years before I decided to build my stencil producing machine. I also looked at Laser machines for cutting patterns. The problem with the laser machine is the material it's self, made with chlorine gas and that is deadly, so I started hand cutting the patterns and they come out real good. I use a multitude of tools to assist me in the pattern cutting, but with that said they are still labor intensive and that is what drives the price up. The Laser machine I needed for cutting patterns out of the stencils would cost around $5000.00 and I can't justify that, so for now I will keep cutting a select few buy hand, like the Crawdad and Baby Bass patterns. I will add more as the demand comes in. "FISH ON" my Brother..........Capt. Ron

    Those are some really nice stencils Mr. Hughes. :worship:  I've made a few vacuum formed stencils, but haven't tried the heat shrink tubing yet. It looks like it would be much easier.

     

    Ben

    You are to kind Sir, thank you.......Capt. Ron

  4. Does anyone know where airbrush stencils for creature baits are available? It's obvious they exist....but i can't seem to locate one anywhere. my attempts to make my own have been pretty disastrous.

    thanks!

    bassman08

    I have started making stencils and now I'm cutting Crawdad patterns for RC 2.5, Baby Bass Pattern for RC 2.5, Wake Bait, and Pop Max, but that is all I have for now, more to come as the demand comes in. I have them listed on ebay, name....gingee1970. Take a look. I make the stencil out of PETG .020 (clear top quality) and I hand cut each pattern myself as the order comes in.

  5. I feel like all I do here is ask questions.   Maybe one day I can answer somebody's questions but for now I'm stuck and hopefully somebody can diagnose this problem.   I am painting some of my flat crankbaits for a friend and a member on TU.   I really want to make these paintjobs look neat and clean.   My problem is,  the only paint I can get to "atomize" and lay cleanly are my transparent yellows/browns/etc.     When it's time to start spraying pearls for accents and black for stripes and dots,  it's terribly "chunky" and splotchy.    I try to thin it to the same consistency of the transparent paints that spray so well,  but when I thin the pearls that much,  the only thing that shows up on the bait looks like water with some pearl dust mixed in.    It seems like my only option for pearls and black is either chunky or watery. 

     

    My airbrush is just the standard Paasche siphon,  bought it from Janns Netcraft for about 50$.   I am thinning all my paints with 4011 reducer and running my compressor at about 25.    Is this setup capable of handling what I'm trying to do?   Or do I need to invest in a better airbrush and a different reducer/ thinner?   I am just trying to get through this batch of baits until I can get my hands on some better equipment.

    I have 4 air brushes I use, 3 Badgers and 1 Paasche, and all three have different tip sizes for Base coat, pearls, transparent and irredesents. For me this is a must and I break down, clean  and oil my air brushes on a regular bases. This is all standard for this field of choice.

  6. Hold your baits by the bill and apply the flex coat.   I've been doing that way for yrs and never have a problem with running all over the bills.

    I also let the mixed batch of flex coat sit for about 5 min before I start brushing it on.   It needs to start to cure or else it's way too runny for me.

    Flex coat is the best product for me and that's why I use it.

    Sounds good, I will give it a try. Not ready to put Flex Coat out to pasture yet. Like you I think it is great stuff. Thank you lots for your support.

  7.  Captain  Ron , I  think you are doing about all you can,I see discussion after discussion on here about this and that is great, some are allergic,some don't like the smell, I  am quite sure they all are bad for us in certain ways...the way i look at it is  I'm not painting cars, I  am using a lil airbrush to paint a small lure, I  have my area set up well to ventilate so it doesn't have to be an issue at all, ease of use, durability, ability to add glitter in a consistant fashion...good luck with finding a solution

    Thank you, I really appreciate your support. I don't give up easy, I will find a way around this challenge if it's the last thing I do. A lot of good always comes from all the good people on TU, and I'm very grateful for that. I will let you know the outcome, in the mean time I will continue to put out the best product I possibly can.

  8. If you have a ferris wheel-type turner, where the lures are suspended horizontally between two plywood discs that rotate on a center shaft, you should be able to carefully apply the epoxy and get a minimum amount on the bills.  But if you are using a turner that flips them over, top to bottom, as it turns, you should probably look at a different topcoat, one that doesn't need to be turned.

    D2T is stiff enough to apply and then turn by hand for a few minutes until it starts to set.

    Otherwise, using a topcoat like DN, Solarez, GST, or a water born urethane, something that can be dipped and then hung vertically, bill up, would seem to me to be your other alternatives.

    I thought about trying Solarez, but I say where you get more of a Satin finish instesd of a High gloss like Flex Coat High Build gives you. I just might try Solarez and see if I can live with the finish or not. I like the Idea of dipping, hanging and walk away. I did this with DN, but it kept attacking my Createx paints even after I went through all the proper steps to make sure the Createx was applied correct and even heat set in a time and heat controlled oven. DN is just not for me, plus the shelf life is to short even with Bloxygen. Thanks for your reply.

  9. If you have a ferris wheel-type turner, where the lures are suspended horizontally between two plywood discs that rotate on a center shaft, you should be able to carefully apply the epoxy and get a minimum amount on the bills.  But if you are using a turner that flips them over, top to bottom, as it turns, you should probably look at a different topcoat, one that doesn't need to be turned.

    D2T is stiff enough to apply and then turn by hand for a few minutes until it starts to set.

    Otherwise, using a topcoat like DN, Solarez, GST, or a water born urethane, something that can be dipped and then hung vertically, bill up, would seem to me to be your other alternatives.

    I have used DN and I must say, it's not for me. With Fles Coat at first I was having a problem with the finish staying tacky and never curing. Well I discovered the problem was in the plastic mixing cups that I purchased online. They were not accurate at all, so I started using one for the resin and another for the hardener, pouring one in the other and making sure I was mixing the two long enough at the current temperature. I have spent a lot of time getting this right and I want to continue to work at perfecting this process. I really appreciate all the feedback I get for all. This is a world of knowledge at our finger tips and I love it.  

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