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barrybait last won the day on June 5

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About barrybait

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    California Delta
  • Interests
    Bass Fishing. Painting crankbaits...mostly 1.5's and 2.5 squarebills. Started making wakebaits from basswood. Youth Director of a teenage bass fishing club. Also do some jig pouring and tie up jigs and punch skirts with rubber/silicone skirt material.

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  1. They look great Mark. Nice work. Barry
  2. They look great Mark. Nice work. Your colors look good and I like the chartreuse highlight on the plopper tails.
  3. I have applied glitter mixed with the top coat of D2T or Solarex most of the time. The only other way I have applied it is to shoot the Createx medium like Illustration Base to an area that I wanted glitter then sprinkle the glitter over the area. That way if I only wanted some red glitter on the red down the sides and/or on the cheek of a rainbow trout, I could spray only that area lightly with createx and then sprinkle red glitter lightly over that and it will only stick where it is wet with the createx. If you are going to try and spray the glitter with your airbrush. Keep in mind that if your are using an airbrush with a 0.5 nozzle, you don't have an opening of 0.5 unless you have the needle pulled all the way back. With a 2 stage airbrush, down with the trigger for air then rock the trigger back to feed the medium. You are going to have to rock the trigger all the way back to have a 0.5 orifice. If the needle is in the nozzle at all, you have a 0.25 opening or less. Hope that reads ok.
  4. Years ago I bought "Penetrating Epoxy" at West Marine. I don't know if they still have it. Later when I was at a "Tap Plastics" store I asked them about it and they knew what it was and had the same thing but more economical. It was basically a slower cure epoxy that is used to secure dry rot and weak wood areas. Cure time is much longer so it should give you longer working time. It is a 2 part epoxy that is mixed in a 2 to 1 ratio by volume. I speculated that the reason it had a long cure time is that it would have a longer time to soak into a compromised wood or plywood substrate. I used it to seal my basswood topwater wake baits. It may help you out epoxying in your bills.
  5. I use twisted wire hangars also. (Most of the time) With twisted wire hangars there is probably 3 or more times more contact for the epoxy and wood. Most of the time I also either drill my hangar or line tie holes all the way through. If it is too far, say with a tail hook, then I drill the hole deep enough for the hangar, then I drill a vent hole in from the top of the bait. Holding the bait, tail up, I start 30 min epoxy in the hangar hole, then I warm the epoxy with my heat gun and keep adding epoxy until it comes out the vent hole. It doesn't take too long because there is no air lock like there is with a dead end hole.
  6. I made some rattles using brass tubing they sell in short lengths at Ace Hardware and other hardware stores. It is very thin wall and helps reduce the added weight of the rattle and still have the metal chamber. I learned it here or on another lure tutorial site. Cut the tubing with a hack saw the length you want the rattle chamber but do not cut all the way through. Now cut the tubing off about one tubing diameter past your first two cuts. Now you have one length of tubing with two cuts that are not quite all the way through. Cut the two end pieces length wise so that you can bend the tubing open and flatten the two end pieces with a hammer or pliers. Fold the flattened end piece over the end of your rattle chamber, put your rattles in, bend the other flattened end and you have your rattle chamber. Hope that makes sense.
  7. To my way of thinking, Vodkaman's video should go into the Forum "Knowledge Based", "Member submitted tutorials", "Hardbait how to" Good job Vodkaman. Your bare bait with reference lines help watch the action. The difference appears more subtle than I would have thought. I did something similar once but instead of making 4 baits, I made one bait with a lip slot. Then I made four lips of different shapes for that lure. I used one or more layers of clear packaging tape over the part of the lip that slid into the slot to keep it in there firmly. In that way I was trying to reduce variables with the bait and only observe variables with the lip only. I found the differences to be subtle as well.
  8. I have had good success with several balsa crank baits all were of the flat sided type. I used thin super glue as a sealer on the wood, then I epoxied the hardware and lip in. Then I used Solarez UV Cure Polyester Resin in order to get a durable bait. I have tried using multiple coats of D2T but it never developed the hard durable shell that I got with the Solarez. The D2T cured well but even with multiple coats, I could still feel the squeeze on the flat sides and sharp hook points would easily penetrate it. D2T is my favorite durable coating on top of a plastic crank bait and it is amazing how well it protects the finish and holds up excellent to prevent hook rash. But I think that it does not work well with the softer substrate of balsa and I can't get the same result. With the Solarez, it resulted in a tougher fiberglass type coat. I am careful with my Balsa crank baits but while they did not break, I did get nicks and cracks and I had multiple repairs to keep the bait going as long as I could but eventually it just did not fish as well and had to be retired. For the lip slot ( I also used fiber board lips) I use a deeper lip slop than the one in the original post above. I also sand and dremel tool grooves in the lip where it is epoxied into the bait to give the D2T a good grip to the lip which also provides a good bond to the balsa and I believe strengthens the nose area of the bait. I am concerned that the increased lip slot of the cushioned lip with rubber inserts will weaken the nose of the bait as it greatly reduces the wood area at the line tie
  9. They look good. You can make it much easier to airbrush the gill plate and kill dot. Use painters tape with a hole punched in it for the kill dot. For gill plates just use scissors or an exacto knife to cut the shape of the gill plate in heavy paper like stencil paper. Hold the paper in position and spray mostly on the stencil to get a nice line for the gill plate. It will be a hard line at the stencil edge and fade quickly for a soft line forward of the gill plate. Much easier and you still need to reduce the air gun pressure. Hope this helps. Your baits look great. Barry
  10. I have been using super glue gel with good results on ABT Glide Bait fins and tails.
  11. I made a holder for large baits out of some spare brake tubing I had left over after replacing the brake lines on my boat trailer. I just squeezed it to be oval instead of round. Use a small stout "s" bend wire at the line tie. Then stretch the bait out with another bent wire. Use a rubber band to the wire and wrap around the tubing as many times as you need to to get the right amount of tension then hook back on the wire. In this case, because the line tie is on the bottom of the after section of the bait it is a little unstable so I stabilize the bait with the middle wires. At the bottom of the bait on the first section is another hook hanger so bend another wire and stretch a rubber band to the bottom of the tubing. On the top, I bend one final wire a little longer and reach down in the joint to hook the upper hinge joint, then rubber band to the top. This perfectly suspends the bait in the tubing. I don't have to use a rubber band around the joint, it is held apart and the gap is maintained. When top coating, I do the joint first using a brush I can push the bait from one side to open the joint up a little on the opposite side, then do the other side of the joint the same way. Then you have a nice coat in the joint area and it is held suspended, stretched out and the v-shaped joint does not touch anywhere. Just finish coating the rest of the bait. This should work for most anybody. This particular bait is an ABT 12 inch Glide Bait that weighs over 10 oz. Finished 9 and 12 inch baits are laying on the boat deck. Hope the explanation and photo are understandable. Saves having to take the bait apart and repair the joint later. Also easy to hang when you change colors or have to mix more epoxy. Barry
  12. barrybait

    carp glider

    Looks great Mikko. Very nice work. As usual you set the standards and raise the bar. Thanks for sharing. Barry
  13. I agree with Gliders that the twisted eye is as strong and in fact probably stronger. However, in many of the large wood plugs these are used for, The wire goes thru the center of the bait so no matter what eye you form on one end, when you push the wire thru to the other end a barrel eye is the only option I know of. The Lordship Lures You Tube videos were very good. After watching, there were other lure maker videos as well.
  14. barrybait

    top water

    Lure Parts Online is your bait making super store. Get on the site and search for "props" and the Chopper Prop will show up there, no. 4034. Left and Right.
  15. I used Krylon Fusion when I first started out painting plastic crankbaits. Seemed like the perfect application, bonds to plastic and I used white for my base coat. I had some trouble with the baits failing at the seams and I asked the outfit I bought the blanks from and they had not heard of this problem. I suspected that it bonds to plastic but it doesn't get along with the glue that bonds the two lure halves together. I started priming with Createx and never had any more baits open up at the seam. Keep that in mind if you are using it for a basecoat on plastic cranks. I didn't think to try the clear for a top coat and I like that idea.
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