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barrybait last won the day on June 5 2019

barrybait had the most liked content!

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About barrybait

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    California Delta
  • Interests
    Bass Fishing. Painting crankbaits...mostly 1.5's and 2.5 squarebills. Started making wakebaits from basswood. Youth Director of a teenage bass fishing club. Also do some jig pouring and tie up jigs and punch skirts with rubber/silicone skirt material.

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  1. Golden Shiner top water wake bait. Carved/shaped from basswood. Lexan bill and tail, createx paints, D2T epoxy top coat. Dobbed eyes with acrylic paint using drill bit end. Barry
  2. Looks good. I struggle getting a golden shiner pattern I like as well but it looks like you hit a good balance of colors for it. Nice work.
  3. I use LPO belly weights in 3, 4, and 5 grams. But I also use Gremlin barrel sinkers is 1/8 oz and I can twist my wire hook hangers and put it thru the center of the barrel sinker. It works out to be about 3-1/2 grams. After that, for additional weight, I borrowed a drop shot mold and poured a bunch of the largest sizes without using the line swivel. Then I took a hunk of thick steel and drilled a lind of holes in it with each hole getting deeper. Holes are slip fit for the drop shot weights. I slip the drop shot weights in the hole I want and use a wood chisel to cut it to length just sliding the chisel flat with the surface of the steel and give it a tap.
  4. barrybait


    Beautiful work All Eyes. Great finish. Super clean. Congrats on some great work. Barry
  5. barrybait

    cedar baits2020.jpg

    Nice looking baits. I love that shad pattern you got going on! I am on about my 7th generation shad pattern myself. Barry
  6. Seems to me like you answered your own question That is the difference. You want both. That way you have what the bass want on a particular day. One day they will come to the surface and eat a wake bait. Another day they want the s-shape glide action.
  7. Thanks Dave and Mark for the kind words.
  8. I don't know how National it is but here on the West Coast, USA we hve TAP PLASTICS which sells plexiglass and polycarbonate sheets and all sorts of epoxies. They have a bunch of left over pieces that they sell very reasonably.
  9. Here are a couple of simple homemade tools that are working out well for me and may be of some help to you too. Photos were necessary for clarity. The first two pictures show a simple homemade screweye driver for use in your drill chuck. If you have any access to scrap pieces of stainless steel or steel tubing, the first picture shows a short length of SS tubing that will not fit over the screw eye. By using vise to squeeze the end oblong, it will easily fit the screw eye. The screw eye will not go too far into the tool either because it does not fit into the unflattened tubing. However, if desired, you can turn the tubing 90 degrees and make another squeeze immediately above the first squeeze to stop the screw from going too far into the tubing. Just make sure the unflattened tubing will fit into your drill chuck. The next four pictures are for a tool I needed to devise to help me fit up the hardware for Prop Baits I have been making lately. LPO has all the hardware I need for Prop Baits similar to the one in the background of one of the pictures. Where I had trouble is I could not hold the cup washers in order to drill out the center hole as needed. For example, when using the large cup washer for the wood chopper or other large prop blade, I use the cup washers for a bearing surface of the prop. Even though the cup washer is drilled out to 0.095", it is difficult to fit over the 0.092" size screw eye because even though the screw eye is made of 0.092" size stock, the threads are raised on the stock and the diameter of the screw eye at the threads is actually over 0.100". Therefore I needed to find some way of holding the cup washer in order to drill out the center. It was even more needed for the smaller cup washers for smaller prop baits. I found a small steel hinge measuring only 1" long by about 1/2" wide and drilled for small No.6 flat head countersink screws for a flush screw head once installed. For the large cup washers, the countersink for the No. 6 screws was perfect to put the cup washer in. Once you close the hinge on the cup washer, a light squeeze with small needle nose vise grips will hold the cup washer securely and keep it from rotating while you drill out the center hole. For the smaller cup washers, I had to drill a pilot hole larger that what I would drill the center out to but much smaller than the base of the cup washer. Drill this out with the hinge closed together for perfect alignment. Then open up the hinge and on one size, use a counter sink or simply a larger bit to provide the countersink. Once you place the cup washer in the countersink and close the hinge, the countersink keeps the cup washer centered up perfectly and holds it while you drill out the center as needed. One picture shows the hinge open with two different sizes of cup washers installed before folding the hinge over to clamp the cup washers. Of course you can't do both these sizes at the same time, one at a time please. It was easier to do than explain but I think with the pictures it will be selp explainatory, hope this help some of you. Barrybait
  10. barrybait

    Cedar Squarebills 10.jpg

    Your blanks and finished lures look great. Nice work. Barrybait
  11. They look great Mark. Nice work. Barry
  12. They look great Mark. Nice work. Your colors look good and I like the chartreuse highlight on the plopper tails.
  13. I have applied glitter mixed with the top coat of D2T or Solarex most of the time. The only other way I have applied it is to shoot the Createx medium like Illustration Base to an area that I wanted glitter then sprinkle the glitter over the area. That way if I only wanted some red glitter on the red down the sides and/or on the cheek of a rainbow trout, I could spray only that area lightly with createx and then sprinkle red glitter lightly over that and it will only stick where it is wet with the createx. If you are going to try and spray the glitter with your airbrush. Keep in mind that if your are using an airbrush with a 0.5 nozzle, you don't have an opening of 0.5 unless you have the needle pulled all the way back. With a 2 stage airbrush, down with the trigger for air then rock the trigger back to feed the medium. You are going to have to rock the trigger all the way back to have a 0.5 orifice. If the needle is in the nozzle at all, you have a 0.25 opening or less. Hope that reads ok.
  14. Years ago I bought "Penetrating Epoxy" at West Marine. I don't know if they still have it. Later when I was at a "Tap Plastics" store I asked them about it and they knew what it was and had the same thing but more economical. It was basically a slower cure epoxy that is used to secure dry rot and weak wood areas. Cure time is much longer so it should give you longer working time. It is a 2 part epoxy that is mixed in a 2 to 1 ratio by volume. I speculated that the reason it had a long cure time is that it would have a longer time to soak into a compromised wood or plywood substrate. I used it to seal my basswood topwater wake baits. It may help you out epoxying in your bills.
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