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barrybait last won the day on June 5

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About barrybait

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    California Delta
  • Interests
    Bass Fishing. Painting crankbaits...mostly 1.5's and 2.5 squarebills. Started making wakebaits from basswood. Youth Director of a teenage bass fishing club. Also do some jig pouring and tie up jigs and punch skirts with rubber/silicone skirt material.

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  1. I use twisted wire hangars also. (Most of the time) With twisted wire hangars there is probably 3 or more times more contact for the epoxy and wood. Most of the time I also either drill my hangar or line tie holes all the way through. If it is too far, say with a tail hook, then I drill the hole deep enough for the hangar, then I drill a vent hole in from the top of the bait. Holding the bait, tail up, I start 30 min epoxy in the hangar hole, then I warm the epoxy with my heat gun and keep adding epoxy until it comes out the vent hole. It doesn't take too long because there is no air lock like there is with a dead end hole.
  2. I made some rattles using brass tubing they sell in short lengths at Ace Hardware and other hardware stores. It is very thin wall and helps reduce the added weight of the rattle and still have the metal chamber. I learned it here or on another lure tutorial site. Cut the tubing with a hack saw the length you want the rattle chamber but do not cut all the way through. Now cut the tubing off about one tubing diameter past your first two cuts. Now you have one length of tubing with two cuts that are not quite all the way through. Cut the two end pieces length wise so that you can bend the tubing open and flatten the two end pieces with a hammer or pliers. Fold the flattened end piece over the end of your rattle chamber, put your rattles in, bend the other flattened end and you have your rattle chamber. Hope that makes sense.
  3. To my way of thinking, Vodkaman's video should go into the Forum "Knowledge Based", "Member submitted tutorials", "Hardbait how to" Good job Vodkaman. Your bare bait with reference lines help watch the action. The difference appears more subtle than I would have thought. I did something similar once but instead of making 4 baits, I made one bait with a lip slot. Then I made four lips of different shapes for that lure. I used one or more layers of clear packaging tape over the part of the lip that slid into the slot to keep it in there firmly. In that way I was trying to reduce variables with the bait and only observe variables with the lip only. I found the differences to be subtle as well.
  4. I have had good success with several balsa crank baits all were of the flat sided type. I used thin super glue as a sealer on the wood, then I epoxied the hardware and lip in. Then I used Solarez UV Cure Polyester Resin in order to get a durable bait. I have tried using multiple coats of D2T but it never developed the hard durable shell that I got with the Solarez. The D2T cured well but even with multiple coats, I could still feel the squeeze on the flat sides and sharp hook points would easily penetrate it. D2T is my favorite durable coating on top of a plastic crank bait and it is amazing how well it protects the finish and holds up excellent to prevent hook rash. But I think that it does not work well with the softer substrate of balsa and I can't get the same result. With the Solarez, it resulted in a tougher fiberglass type coat. I am careful with my Balsa crank baits but while they did not break, I did get nicks and cracks and I had multiple repairs to keep the bait going as long as I could but eventually it just did not fish as well and had to be retired. For the lip slot ( I also used fiber board lips) I use a deeper lip slop than the one in the original post above. I also sand and dremel tool grooves in the lip where it is epoxied into the bait to give the D2T a good grip to the lip which also provides a good bond to the balsa and I believe strengthens the nose area of the bait. I am concerned that the increased lip slot of the cushioned lip with rubber inserts will weaken the nose of the bait as it greatly reduces the wood area at the line tie
  5. They look good. You can make it much easier to airbrush the gill plate and kill dot. Use painters tape with a hole punched in it for the kill dot. For gill plates just use scissors or an exacto knife to cut the shape of the gill plate in heavy paper like stencil paper. Hold the paper in position and spray mostly on the stencil to get a nice line for the gill plate. It will be a hard line at the stencil edge and fade quickly for a soft line forward of the gill plate. Much easier and you still need to reduce the air gun pressure. Hope this helps. Your baits look great. Barry
  6. I have been using super glue gel with good results on ABT Glide Bait fins and tails.
  7. I made a holder for large baits out of some spare brake tubing I had left over after replacing the brake lines on my boat trailer. I just squeezed it to be oval instead of round. Use a small stout "s" bend wire at the line tie. Then stretch the bait out with another bent wire. Use a rubber band to the wire and wrap around the tubing as many times as you need to to get the right amount of tension then hook back on the wire. In this case, because the line tie is on the bottom of the after section of the bait it is a little unstable so I stabilize the bait with the middle wires. At the bottom of the bait on the first section is another hook hanger so bend another wire and stretch a rubber band to the bottom of the tubing. On the top, I bend one final wire a little longer and reach down in the joint to hook the upper hinge joint, then rubber band to the top. This perfectly suspends the bait in the tubing. I don't have to use a rubber band around the joint, it is held apart and the gap is maintained. When top coating, I do the joint first using a brush I can push the bait from one side to open the joint up a little on the opposite side, then do the other side of the joint the same way. Then you have a nice coat in the joint area and it is held suspended, stretched out and the v-shaped joint does not touch anywhere. Just finish coating the rest of the bait. This should work for most anybody. This particular bait is an ABT 12 inch Glide Bait that weighs over 10 oz. Finished 9 and 12 inch baits are laying on the boat deck. Hope the explanation and photo are understandable. Saves having to take the bait apart and repair the joint later. Also easy to hang when you change colors or have to mix more epoxy. Barry
  8. barrybait

    carp glider

    Looks great Mikko. Very nice work. As usual you set the standards and raise the bar. Thanks for sharing. Barry
  9. I agree with Gliders that the twisted eye is as strong and in fact probably stronger. However, in many of the large wood plugs these are used for, The wire goes thru the center of the bait so no matter what eye you form on one end, when you push the wire thru to the other end a barrel eye is the only option I know of. The Lordship Lures You Tube videos were very good. After watching, there were other lure maker videos as well.
  10. barrybait

    top water

    Lure Parts Online is your bait making super store. Get on the site and search for "props" and the Chopper Prop will show up there, no. 4034. Left and Right.
  11. I used Krylon Fusion when I first started out painting plastic crankbaits. Seemed like the perfect application, bonds to plastic and I used white for my base coat. I had some trouble with the baits failing at the seams and I asked the outfit I bought the blanks from and they had not heard of this problem. I suspected that it bonds to plastic but it doesn't get along with the glue that bonds the two lure halves together. I started priming with Createx and never had any more baits open up at the seam. Keep that in mind if you are using it for a basecoat on plastic cranks. I didn't think to try the clear for a top coat and I like that idea.
  12. barrybait


    That looks sharp. Nice work.
  13. barrybait

    Fatfingers Flatshad

    Very nice bait. Well constructed and finished. Quality work. Congrats! Barry
  14. barrybait

    1.5 cedar squarebill

    A really nice looking bait and paint/top coat. Great work! Barry
  15. Depends on how high your high spots are. Next coat will improve it but if there is a fair size bump you might want to improve the situation by using some fine grit abrasive paper on a craft stick. The reason to use a craft stick is to try and hit the bump only. Don't try and get it all the way flush you will wind up going thru and damaging your paint work. If you try to sand with a soft backing on the grit, it will touch the thinner areas and damage the paint right away. Next time you have to touch up the epoxy and it is beginning to cure just like when you could see a bump, take your heat gun and warm the lure a little and it will help the epoxy spread out evenly. Just like everything else...don't overdo it.
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