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barrybait last won the day on July 15 2016

barrybait had the most liked content!

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About barrybait

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    California Delta
  • Interests
    Bass Fishing. Painting crankbaits...mostly 1.5's and 2.5 squarebills. Started making wakebaits from basswood. Youth Director of a teenage bass fishing club. Also do some jig pouring and tie up jigs and punch skirts with rubber/silicone skirt material.

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  1. carp glider

    Looks great Mikko. Very nice work. As usual you set the standards and raise the bar. Thanks for sharing. Barry
  2. Barrel twist wire screw eye

    I agree with Gliders that the twisted eye is as strong and in fact probably stronger. However, in many of the large wood plugs these are used for, The wire goes thru the center of the bait so no matter what eye you form on one end, when you push the wire thru to the other end a barrel eye is the only option I know of. The Lordship Lures You Tube videos were very good. After watching, there were other lure maker videos as well.
  3. top water

    Lure Parts Online is your bait making super store. Get on the site and search for "props" and the Chopper Prop will show up there, no. 4034. Left and Right.
  4. Krylon Fusion - Prime and Topcoat

    I used Krylon Fusion when I first started out painting plastic crankbaits. Seemed like the perfect application, bonds to plastic and I used white for my base coat. I had some trouble with the baits failing at the seams and I asked the outfit I bought the blanks from and they had not heard of this problem. I suspected that it bonds to plastic but it doesn't get along with the glue that bonds the two lure halves together. I started priming with Createx and never had any more baits open up at the seam. Keep that in mind if you are using it for a basecoat on plastic cranks. I didn't think to try the clear for a top coat and I like that idea.
  5. 20170720_092311.jpg

    That looks sharp. Nice work.
  6. Fatfingers Flatshad

    Very nice bait. Well constructed and finished. Quality work. Congrats! Barry
  7. 1.5 cedar squarebill

    A really nice looking bait and paint/top coat. Great work! Barry
  8. Clear coat problem

    Depends on how high your high spots are. Next coat will improve it but if there is a fair size bump you might want to improve the situation by using some fine grit abrasive paper on a craft stick. The reason to use a craft stick is to try and hit the bump only. Don't try and get it all the way flush you will wind up going thru and damaging your paint work. If you try to sand with a soft backing on the grit, it will touch the thinner areas and damage the paint right away. Next time you have to touch up the epoxy and it is beginning to cure just like when you could see a bump, take your heat gun and warm the lure a little and it will help the epoxy spread out evenly. Just like everything else...don't overdo it.
  9. Clear Coat Question

    Mark, I haven't tried adding acetone to the solarez but it sure sounds like it would be helpful. Bob, I tried sealing with solarez but I wasn't comfortable with it because I use D2T to glue the bill in and the hook hangars in so it seems like I should continue with the D2T. What do you glue your bill/hardware in with and how much do you think we may be able to do multiple layers of different product. I haven't really seen the two disagree with each other.
  10. Clear Coat Question

    I am making some balsa baits and I only have been using D2T and Solarez and Thin Super Glue. If I don't get a layer of Solarez in there somewhere, I just can't seem to get them tough enough. If I use Super Glue, then D2t, paint, and D2t they just don't hold up to the hooks even after multiple layers of D2T. It's like you can put a hook right through it. I top coat plastic squarebills with D2T and they are just bullet proof. If I use Solarez first then paint and D2T seems pretty tough but the Solarez always seems to get some lumpy to it I need to sand. So..currrently I am going with Super Glue, D2T all hardware and lip, D2T bait, paint, Solarez top and I am dealing with the Solarez top coat best I can. My latest is that I should probably order a mid grade balsa if I need them tougher.
  11. Devcon 2T epoxy problem

    I know this sounds contrary but I actually extend my application time of D2T with the same heat gun I use to dry paint between airbrush coats. Quite often after I finish coating my baits and of course my D2T is starting to get a little stiff to brush on, I give my baits one final look over and observe a blemish. I can pass the heat gun over my mixed D2T and make it flow nicely, brush some on at the blemish as best I can. There will be brush marks at this point so I his the bait with the heat gun, all over but especially where I brushed and everything smooths out just great. There is a point of diminishing returns of course but it is like you can re liquify it briefly or in the above case, may have been able to smooth it out on the lumpy application by using the heat gun.
  12. Fatfingers crank bait

    Awesome bait. From the scale pattern to gill plate to eyes and highlights, beautifully done. Has Wow! factor. Barry
  13. 58de7e270c236_PaintedBassWakeBait.jpg

    Beautifully done. Looks great!
  14. Just started airbrushing cranks

    I would suggest that you use 3D type eyes only when there is a place made for one. When there is no eye socket, then I think they look much better if you paint (or dob) the eyes on.
  15. Question for balsa lure makers

    Andy, you could use the search function and gather information on topics like this. I am making balsa crank baits also and the best procedure to date appears to be using thin super glue for initial sealing and to give the bait a sort of shell. Follow that up with a coat of Solarez Polyester Resin. Then after you paint it, can coat with Devcon 2-ton epoxy. I tried using multiple coats of D2T instead of the Solarez but it is not as tough and a hook will still easily damage the coating. Good luck, Barry