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Everything posted by barrybait

  1. Looks great Mark. I look forward to seeing you out on the Delta so I can see how it swims. Barry
  2. The attached picture is an original 9" AC Plug Minnow with Allan Cole signature. They sold to Optimum Baits. The top 2 are 7" AC Minnows made by Optimum that I have stripped for repaint. I have been making baits similar to these but with more of a verticle profile like a golden shiner that we have here in the delta. Optimum Baits does not make them anymore. They are productive baits that I want in my tackle box. I may be the responsible person that caused Mark to consider making a bait out of anything except PVC but he has heard the wood knock of my baits. Wood is more trouble but it fishes well and there is nothing like that wood knock like knocking on your front door to help call fish up. I made the first ones out of Bass wood, then I made two out of Pine, and now one of Balsa. I am always trying to get a good seal on the baits which is crucial for longevity and helps with the knock. I have been using Penetrating Epoxy which is a two part 2:1 Epoxy which is used to penetrate and stabilize wood that has lost strength due to dry rot or other failures. I can't find it in their store anymore. Tap Plastics told me it is just a longer cure 2 part epoxy that is also thinner. The key to my application is to heat the wood with my heat gun and keep applying this epoxy. This expands the air out of the end grain so that it sucks the epoxy in and gives me durability for my knock at the hinge. Previously I applied the epoxy then heated the lure and it really foams up. I like the idea of boiled linseed oil overnight soak but it still seems like I need to heat the wood up first or the air is just trapped in the wood end grain. Wood is like a bunch of tiny straws. However we do it, we still only really increase the amount of sealer at the end grain, I don't think any more sealer gets into the side and does not increase the durability of the sides of the "straws" because it doesn't soak in. The only way you can get more durability on the sides is with more coats for more thickness. Most of us who have been here awhile remember the video of the wood lure in sealer in a vacuum chamber. Flip the vacuum pump on and it looks like is blows up with all the air coming out of the wood end grain. You can get enough sealer sucked into the wood to make it sink like this. That is not what I am trying to do. Just warm up the wood enough that you get it a little ways into the end grain. By the way, I use a fan on low to keep fumes moving off from my work station. I am always wondering how either Allan Cole or Mike Shaw sealed their baits because they got them fairly durable. The last bait I made, the Balsa one, is probably at least half again more active waking than the Basswood ones but it is more difficult to make durable. (All wood baits will fail) The penetrating epoxy works well, but with the really light weight soft woods I have to put multiple coats of UV Cure Polyester Resin to help keep the hooks from penetrating the top coat. I would be interested to hear others opinions on this. Barry
  3. Their gorgeous. I like the black flake too, it gives it another texture. Beautiful work. Barry
  4. Those baits turned out beautifully. I like this color best but the other color you did has a beautiful pearl belly and side that looks great. Barry
  5. They look awesome Mark. This Covid isolation has got you stepping up your game! Get on 'em!!!
  6. barrybait

    pumpkinseed 8.jpg

    Those all look great Mark! Barry
  7. Golden Shiner top water wake bait. Carved/shaped from basswood. Lexan bill and tail, createx paints, D2T epoxy top coat. Dobbed eyes with acrylic paint using drill bit end. Barry
  8. Looks good. I struggle getting a golden shiner pattern I like as well but it looks like you hit a good balance of colors for it. Nice work.
  9. I use LPO belly weights in 3, 4, and 5 grams. But I also use Gremlin barrel sinkers is 1/8 oz and I can twist my wire hook hangers and put it thru the center of the barrel sinker. It works out to be about 3-1/2 grams. After that, for additional weight, I borrowed a drop shot mold and poured a bunch of the largest sizes without using the line swivel. Then I took a hunk of thick steel and drilled a lind of holes in it with each hole getting deeper. Holes are slip fit for the drop shot weights. I slip the drop shot weights in the hole I want and use a wood chisel to cut it to length just sliding the chisel flat with the surface of the steel and give it a tap.
  10. barrybait


    Beautiful work All Eyes. Great finish. Super clean. Congrats on some great work. Barry
  11. barrybait

    cedar baits2020.jpg

    Nice looking baits. I love that shad pattern you got going on! I am on about my 7th generation shad pattern myself. Barry
  12. Seems to me like you answered your own question That is the difference. You want both. That way you have what the bass want on a particular day. One day they will come to the surface and eat a wake bait. Another day they want the s-shape glide action.
  13. Thanks Dave and Mark for the kind words.
  14. I don't know how National it is but here on the West Coast, USA we hve TAP PLASTICS which sells plexiglass and polycarbonate sheets and all sorts of epoxies. They have a bunch of left over pieces that they sell very reasonably.
  15. Here are a couple of simple homemade tools that are working out well for me and may be of some help to you too. Photos were necessary for clarity. The first two pictures show a simple homemade screweye driver for use in your drill chuck. If you have any access to scrap pieces of stainless steel or steel tubing, the first picture shows a short length of SS tubing that will not fit over the screw eye. By using vise to squeeze the end oblong, it will easily fit the screw eye. The screw eye will not go too far into the tool either because it does not fit into the unflattened tubing. However, if desired, you can turn the tubing 90 degrees and make another squeeze immediately above the first squeeze to stop the screw from going too far into the tubing. Just make sure the unflattened tubing will fit into your drill chuck. The next four pictures are for a tool I needed to devise to help me fit up the hardware for Prop Baits I have been making lately. LPO has all the hardware I need for Prop Baits similar to the one in the background of one of the pictures. Where I had trouble is I could not hold the cup washers in order to drill out the center hole as needed. For example, when using the large cup washer for the wood chopper or other large prop blade, I use the cup washers for a bearing surface of the prop. Even though the cup washer is drilled out to 0.095", it is difficult to fit over the 0.092" size screw eye because even though the screw eye is made of 0.092" size stock, the threads are raised on the stock and the diameter of the screw eye at the threads is actually over 0.100". Therefore I needed to find some way of holding the cup washer in order to drill out the center. It was even more needed for the smaller cup washers for smaller prop baits. I found a small steel hinge measuring only 1" long by about 1/2" wide and drilled for small No.6 flat head countersink screws for a flush screw head once installed. For the large cup washers, the countersink for the No. 6 screws was perfect to put the cup washer in. Once you close the hinge on the cup washer, a light squeeze with small needle nose vise grips will hold the cup washer securely and keep it from rotating while you drill out the center hole. For the smaller cup washers, I had to drill a pilot hole larger that what I would drill the center out to but much smaller than the base of the cup washer. Drill this out with the hinge closed together for perfect alignment. Then open up the hinge and on one size, use a counter sink or simply a larger bit to provide the countersink. Once you place the cup washer in the countersink and close the hinge, the countersink keeps the cup washer centered up perfectly and holds it while you drill out the center as needed. One picture shows the hinge open with two different sizes of cup washers installed before folding the hinge over to clamp the cup washers. Of course you can't do both these sizes at the same time, one at a time please. It was easier to do than explain but I think with the pictures it will be selp explainatory, hope this help some of you. Barrybait
  16. barrybait

    Cedar Squarebills 10.jpg

    Your blanks and finished lures look great. Nice work. Barrybait
  17. They look great Mark. Nice work. Barry
  18. They look great Mark. Nice work. Your colors look good and I like the chartreuse highlight on the plopper tails.
  19. I have applied glitter mixed with the top coat of D2T or Solarex most of the time. The only other way I have applied it is to shoot the Createx medium like Illustration Base to an area that I wanted glitter then sprinkle the glitter over the area. That way if I only wanted some red glitter on the red down the sides and/or on the cheek of a rainbow trout, I could spray only that area lightly with createx and then sprinkle red glitter lightly over that and it will only stick where it is wet with the createx. If you are going to try and spray the glitter with your airbrush. Keep in mind that if your are using an airbrush with a 0.5 nozzle, you don't have an opening of 0.5 unless you have the needle pulled all the way back. With a 2 stage airbrush, down with the trigger for air then rock the trigger back to feed the medium. You are going to have to rock the trigger all the way back to have a 0.5 orifice. If the needle is in the nozzle at all, you have a 0.25 opening or less. Hope that reads ok.
  20. Years ago I bought "Penetrating Epoxy" at West Marine. I don't know if they still have it. Later when I was at a "Tap Plastics" store I asked them about it and they knew what it was and had the same thing but more economical. It was basically a slower cure epoxy that is used to secure dry rot and weak wood areas. Cure time is much longer so it should give you longer working time. It is a 2 part epoxy that is mixed in a 2 to 1 ratio by volume. I speculated that the reason it had a long cure time is that it would have a longer time to soak into a compromised wood or plywood substrate. I used it to seal my basswood topwater wake baits. It may help you out epoxying in your bills.
  21. I use twisted wire hangars also. (Most of the time) With twisted wire hangars there is probably 3 or more times more contact for the epoxy and wood. Most of the time I also either drill my hangar or line tie holes all the way through. If it is too far, say with a tail hook, then I drill the hole deep enough for the hangar, then I drill a vent hole in from the top of the bait. Holding the bait, tail up, I start 30 min epoxy in the hangar hole, then I warm the epoxy with my heat gun and keep adding epoxy until it comes out the vent hole. It doesn't take too long because there is no air lock like there is with a dead end hole.
  22. I made some rattles using brass tubing they sell in short lengths at Ace Hardware and other hardware stores. It is very thin wall and helps reduce the added weight of the rattle and still have the metal chamber. I learned it here or on another lure tutorial site. Cut the tubing with a hack saw the length you want the rattle chamber but do not cut all the way through. Now cut the tubing off about one tubing diameter past your first two cuts. Now you have one length of tubing with two cuts that are not quite all the way through. Cut the two end pieces length wise so that you can bend the tubing open and flatten the two end pieces with a hammer or pliers. Fold the flattened end piece over the end of your rattle chamber, put your rattles in, bend the other flattened end and you have your rattle chamber. Hope that makes sense.
  23. To my way of thinking, Vodkaman's video should go into the Forum "Knowledge Based", "Member submitted tutorials", "Hardbait how to" Good job Vodkaman. Your bare bait with reference lines help watch the action. The difference appears more subtle than I would have thought. I did something similar once but instead of making 4 baits, I made one bait with a lip slot. Then I made four lips of different shapes for that lure. I used one or more layers of clear packaging tape over the part of the lip that slid into the slot to keep it in there firmly. In that way I was trying to reduce variables with the bait and only observe variables with the lip only. I found the differences to be subtle as well.
  24. I have had good success with several balsa crank baits all were of the flat sided type. I used thin super glue as a sealer on the wood, then I epoxied the hardware and lip in. Then I used Solarez UV Cure Polyester Resin in order to get a durable bait. I have tried using multiple coats of D2T but it never developed the hard durable shell that I got with the Solarez. The D2T cured well but even with multiple coats, I could still feel the squeeze on the flat sides and sharp hook points would easily penetrate it. D2T is my favorite durable coating on top of a plastic crank bait and it is amazing how well it protects the finish and holds up excellent to prevent hook rash. But I think that it does not work well with the softer substrate of balsa and I can't get the same result. With the Solarez, it resulted in a tougher fiberglass type coat. I am careful with my Balsa crank baits but while they did not break, I did get nicks and cracks and I had multiple repairs to keep the bait going as long as I could but eventually it just did not fish as well and had to be retired. For the lip slot ( I also used fiber board lips) I use a deeper lip slop than the one in the original post above. I also sand and dremel tool grooves in the lip where it is epoxied into the bait to give the D2T a good grip to the lip which also provides a good bond to the balsa and I believe strengthens the nose area of the bait. I am concerned that the increased lip slot of the cushioned lip with rubber inserts will weaken the nose of the bait as it greatly reduces the wood area at the line tie
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