aydensdad82

Yeah someone sells the Little Johns but I think it is only in a sinking model. Suspending or slow float would be awesome.

Wow Salty very nice! I hope those meds start working soon for you.

Got mine too. Painting some tonight. They look great Jim!

Is it this one? http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=591

I had to throw a lure down my concrete driveway twice which yielded a very small crack around the bottom hook hanger of a 1.5. I threw it like I was skipping a rock so there were many hits to the concrete. I was impressed. I dipped it for another coat right afterwards and as we have already figured out it does not make the original crack disappear but it was sealed and ready to go in the water again.

Interesting. I will try that this afternoon as I have a couple to seal. I have noticed the flakes before.

For my own lures I am fine with the satin finish from Solarez. The sexy gloss finish catches the fisherman though not the fish. My friends and people I have traded tackle with have been hooked by the high gloss finish and not the satin. I am going to try buffing a few but if it is as tedious as it sounds it defeats the purpose of using Solarez for me.

FYI post - So I bought some Solarez last week and have dipped a few lures with success. Like everyone else has mentioned before I saw a huge difference in the glossy finish I am accustomed to from Bob Smith, D2T, etc and the satin/matte finish provided by Solarez so I got curious about how to bring out some shine out. I spoke with the guys at Solarez this morning after another TU member (Mark P) had recommended picking their brain. The rep I spoke to immediately mentioned the fly tying version uses urethane instead of resin and gives a Dick Smith type finish in seconds. Well the problem is a 4 oz. bottle is close to $40, yikes. In order to bring a shine to the polyester resin version the rep mentioned buffing the bait with Maguiers #5 auto polish. There is actually a link on their site that shows how to do this with a surfboard. Same process for lures just downsize equipment to a rotary tool with a felt wheel. Here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow-Gwr6mLwU . I am going to give this a try later in the week and will let everyone know how it goes.

Vander that is very impressive

Paul those are great looking

I remember the first time I experienced the vibration using my scroll saw. I was stupidly trying to take off small amounts that could have just been sanded. Felt vibration, heard scary noise, and my piece of wood went flying and my saw blade snapped....That was a "might need to change my pants moment".

You mean the flat in the middle should keep contact with the flat on top of my lure? Only have sandpaper in the true curve of the block so that wood is never sanded off the top or sides, just edges?

That is actually what I am doing now and it works fine, just looking for alternatives. When I use the sanding block I tend to veer off to the sides. My wrists and fingers lock up on me which doesn't help when I am trying to be precise.

Ah thank you Barr. Vander, and SLT. So Barr you still have 10 fingers?

LOL

I will have to checkout the pneumatic sander. Thanks Pat. Bob my concern with CNC routers is price. That would have been my solution if funds were available.