aydensdad82
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Posts posted by aydensdad82
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Wow Salty very nice! I hope those meds start working soon for you.
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Got mine too. Painting some tonight. They look great Jim!
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I bought one of these about a year back for planning sharp edges on lure blanks,,,,,,Love it.
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Category.aspx -- (OR see Veritas Tools -Miniature plane -2 1/2")
Pete
Is it this one? http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=591
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Wahoo International makes and sells it direct: http://www.solarez.com/productsnew/gloss.html They sell a variety of UV cure products but the gloss resin seems most applicable to crankbaits. As time goes on and other guys explore the possibilities, they may find other UV resin sources that may be clearer/stronger/ etc than Solarez.
BTW, yesterday I accidentally tested impact strength by trying to polish a lure on a high speed wool pad in a polishing machine. Lost control, the lure did a two bank shot off a steel shelf and a concrete floor. Result - a small chip similar to what you would expect with epoxy, which I repaired in a few minutes. I didn't see much difference in gloss after I polished the lure, but maybe I used the wrong polishing compound. At any rate, I'm moderately happy with the un-polished result and very happy with the speed of the application process.
I had to throw a lure down my concrete driveway twice which yielded a very small crack around the bottom hook hanger of a 1.5. I threw it like I was skipping a rock so there were many hits to the concrete. I was impressed. I dipped it for another coat right afterwards and as we have already figured out it does not make the original crack disappear but it was sealed and ready to go in the water again.
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BTW, something I noticed today about Solarez. If you pop the top of the jug and look inside, you'll see a bunch of very small wax flakes floating on top. The flakes rise to the surface in the jug and they do the same thing when you apply Solarez to a lure; in fact they are necessary for it to cure hard. They also cause the cured finish to have a satin versus a gloss finish.
If you want a higher gloss finish, stir the Solarez up before applying it. You'll get fewer wax flakes and correspondingly higher gloss. There will still be enough wax to suffocate the chemical reaction and make for a hard slick finish.
Interesting. I will try that this afternoon as I have a couple to seal. I have noticed the flakes before.
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For my own lures I am fine with the satin finish from Solarez. The sexy gloss finish catches the fisherman though not the fish. My friends and people I have traded tackle with have been hooked by the high gloss finish and not the satin. I am going to try buffing a few but if it is as tedious as it sounds it defeats the purpose of using Solarez for me.
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FYI post - So I bought some Solarez last week and have dipped a few lures with success. Like everyone else has mentioned before I saw a huge difference in the glossy finish I am accustomed to from Bob Smith, D2T, etc and the satin/matte finish provided by Solarez so I got curious about how to bring out some shine out. I spoke with the guys at Solarez this morning after another TU member (Mark P) had recommended picking their brain. The rep I spoke to immediately mentioned the fly tying version uses urethane instead of resin and gives a Dick Smith type finish in seconds. Well the problem is a 4 oz. bottle is close to $40, yikes. In order to bring a shine to the polyester resin version the rep mentioned buffing the bait with Maguiers #5 auto polish. There is actually a link on their site that shows how to do this with a surfboard. Same process for lures just downsize equipment to a rotary tool with a felt wheel. Here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow-Gwr6mLwU . I am going to give this a try later in the week and will let everyone know how it goes.
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Vander that is very impressive
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Paul those are great looking
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I remember the first time I experienced the vibration using my scroll saw. I was stupidly trying to take off small amounts that could have just been sanded. Felt vibration, heard scary noise, and my piece of wood went flying and my saw blade snapped....That was a "might need to change my pants moment".
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If you only a few sizes of cranks, you might try making a U shaped block, with a flat in the middle of the U with no sand paper, and curves on both sides. That way the block would stay centered, more or less.
You mean the flat in the middle should keep contact with the flat on top of my lure? Only have sandpaper in the true curve of the block so that wood is never sanded off the top or sides, just edges?
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You can make a sanding block with the curve you want, and use that to give yourself a controllable, safe shaping device.
That is actually what I am doing now and it works fine, just looking for alternatives. When I use the sanding block I tend to veer off to the sides. My wrists and fingers lock up on me which doesn't help when I am trying to be precise.
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Ah thank you Barr. Vander, and SLT. So Barr you still have 10 fingers?
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I looked at the Kirjes sander and it seems similar to the Foredom tool I got a couple of years ago - which is basically a more powerful Dremel type rotary tool that accepts bits up to 1/4" shank diameter and employs a flexible shaft and hand piece. I have a 1" diameter 4" long soft rubber sanding drum on the Foredom that makes quick work of shaping-sanding tasks but for smaller crankbaits, I still use a smaller Dremel sander because it offers a bit more hand control. One nice feature on the Foredom is you can run the tool in forward or reverse and vary the speed via a foot control switch, so you can shoot the sawdust plume it creates away from you.
I'm thinking what Aydensdad82 is looking for is a tool or jig that rounds both sides of a lure simultaneously to a defined profile. You have 2 choices - either a cutting tool or a sanding tool. I would prefer sanding because it's safer unless you have a method of holding a small crankbait securely away from your fingers while cutting. That said, I still do it by hand with a Murphy knife to cut facets on the shoulder of the lure and a rotary sander to blend the facets smoothly into the body shape. You can get a nice symmetrical body this way IF you measure and mark the facets before you start cutting. I use a drafting compass to do that. It ends up being a lot of detail work to mark, cut, and sand the body shape but I just consider it part of the work needed to make a good crankbait with the tools I have available. If I built more than a hundred crankbaits a year, I'd be looking for faster, more exact methods. Since it's a hobby, that would only spur me to make even MORE crankbaits than the surplus already crammed into 10 plastic 3700 boxes in the garage - the shame of a crankbait building habit!
LOL
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I will have to checkout the pneumatic sander. Thanks Pat.
Bob my concern with CNC routers is price. That would have been my solution if funds were available.
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My pleasure. I don't remember exactly where the posts are, but if you can't find them with a search you might try sending Gene or Vic a message. I'm sure either of them would be glad to help.
Ben
I found them. Pretty interesting and looks like a solution.
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Thanks Ben
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Some of the muskie lure makers use a router on their big lures. I wouldn't want to rout something so small as a 2"-3" lure though. I have routed small components over the years for various wood working projects and it is horribly nerve racking.
A general rule of thumb is to keep your fingers 3"-4" away from the blade so unless you build a jig of some sort that is pretty impossible with such a small lure. I once made a jig for some small footballs where I put some non skid fabric on the end of a 2x2 and tried to use it as a mobile hold down. It was very wobbly and I had a hard time holding the work piece up to the fence and pilot bearing. Then as the piece got more round it became even harder to hold flat.
Good luck.
Yeah that was my concern. I like having 10 fingers. I am thinking the dremel router may be the ticket for this
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Has anyone used a router to shape the top and belly of flatside cranks? I sand my edges to get them round but i am interested in using a router to get more consistency and more of a "u" shape. My concern is a router seems overkill for 2"-3" bass lures. I saw dremel makes a small hobby style table, anybody tried that?
Thanks guys
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do a search for propionate also
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For my lures I use a 5 minute Loctite epoxy for my ballast hole. This is just a basic epoxy I found at Home Depot. The entire body then gets dipped in propionate 5-8 times which seals everything and gives me a nice surface to paint. After painting I finish with a top coat of Bob Smith 30 miin epoxy.
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Thanks Diemai! I originally was planning on fashioning the wire as seen in the photo below. (finally got the computer to recognize photo format) I was trying to figure out how I was going to get it ran through the bill. Also, I had my doubts on how the lure would hold up when pressure was put on the front of the line tie while fighting a fish. However by bending the line tie in a "U" shape, then returning it into the belly slot with a 90 degree bend makes perfect sense. I will be filling the slot on the front side of belly weight with epoxy as well. (the rear I'll epoxy in a small sliver or cedar.) so I can easily adapt your method to my lure as well. Exactly the information I was needing!!!!!! Thanks again, I really appreciate it!!
Well, I guess I cant upload photo, I'm getting an error message that my file is to big to upload. One of these days I'll get this photo thing figured out!!!!! lol
Open the picture in Paint and click resize in the to left. Resize it to 800 x 600 then save it. That will be a smaller file size but still good quality.
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So about those 3 lb. panfish....I am hooongry. Haha where are you fishing?
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Hi everyone. My name is Jonathan and I have been attempting to carve lures for the past 6 months. Everything has been from balsa and basswood thus far. I am a bass guy and after using a friends WEC Hicky I was immediately hooked to wood crankbaits. I have learned a lot from everyone here and hopefully one of my ideas can help another user.
Old Wiggle Warts
in Hard Baits
Posted
Yeah someone sells the Little Johns but I think it is only in a sinking model. Suspending or slow float would be awesome.