Pickadoll
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Posts posted by Pickadoll
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Epoxy can cause skin allergies very fast. Always use gloves and if you get it on your skin, go and wash it of as soon as possible.
If you live in Usa you should get True Coat. It is a new epoxy clearcoat made especially for lures. It is environmental friendly, not toxic so you wont need a gas-mask (but it can probably cause skin allergies like epoxies tends to do), it dries in just a couple of hours and it is clearer than Envirotex, thick viscocity (1 layer is like 2 layers of etex) and you wont nee to be afraid of fish eyes cause you wont get them with True coat like other epoxies.
/David -
When I make suspending/slowsink/sinking wood glide jerkbaits I mainly use beechwood but I also like to use Siberian larch. I have also tried oak, linden tree (swedish basswood), maple, pine, american ash wood, and fir wood. But the first two I meantioned is perfect for glidebaits and super easy to work with if you compare to woods like oak and maple.
If you have a saw machine like bandsaw and a router to round the edges you will be very very happy with beechwood. Siberian larch is easier to shape than beechwood but needs a bit more lead weight but nowhere near as much as you need with basswood.
Hope this helped a bit!?
/Pickadollbaits
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Hello everybody!
Today I made a big misstake at the workshop. I drilled 1 of 2 weight holes in the wrong place on 50 lures today.I dont know how I managed to do that haha!
Is there a good way to fill these holes up and then drill new holes in the right position?
Maybe by making a filler by mixing epoxy and saw dust?
The wood I use has the density around 0,65-0,75m3 and the epoxy I use has the density just over 1,0 so the epoxy is heavier than the wood.
/Pickadollbaits
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I painted this lure with Faskolor Fasglitter Gold.
It worked great.
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On 2017-08-05 at 2:21 PM, DaleSW said:
Very nice! I've had art work to trick me before, so I have to ask. The plating on the back of the first pic, is it plating or painted? I'm interested in rust looking paints as this one has, well I believe
. I believe that model makers use this often for an realistic look.
Thanks
I used Plastic padding to build the plating on the back of the lure and then covered it with aluminum foil and then I used a rust paint from a model painting brand like you said :)!
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That looks really awesome! Btw. What kind of wood do you use to carve?
I havent made a foiled lure in a couple of years but when I saw your video I now want to do it again :)!
I have tried many types of foiling techniques. I generally like to put the foil all around the lure so I can use the airbrush to make a smooth transition between foil and paint BUT I didnt have any picture of any lures when I did so haha!
/David
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Are you going to make a two piece silicone mold?
You can use clay that you can melt and then pour to the center line of the bait and you will get a pretty awesome seam line.
I recommend this clay cause it is high quality stuff I used for at least 5 years.
Chavant NSP (Sulphur free). And you can reuse it as many times as you want.-
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On 23 april 2017 at 5:28 AM, StriperCandy said:
Gloves, and the always recommended eye protection. There are no fumes.
Thanks for the answer.
Have you tried other kinds of wood hardeners or have you only tried Minvax wood hardener? Just want to know if Minvax version is the best option cause Minvax is really hard to get a hand on in my country (Sweden).-
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On 21 april 2017 at 7:39 PM, StriperCandy said:
I use wood hardener for my cedar lures. I filled one of those preserve jars that have a lid with a silicone seal and a wire loop and hook to lock it down. The lures go into the jar overnight and the jar gets turned upside down and back again a few times. Take the lures out in the AM and wipe them off. Let them dry a few hours, sand and prime. The bonus for me is that I use a through wire, so the hardener gets into the bore hole for the wire and seals the inside of the lure.
I have always wanted to try Minvax Wood hardener for my detailed carved lures cause I need a sealer that doesn't build on the surface like epoxy, propionate and so on. But I've heard that Wood hardener is very toxic stuff. Do I need to use special protection clothes when I use it :)?
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Hello!
Have somebody here tried to use a shrinking tube as stencil? I imagine that it would work almost as good as a vacuum formed stencil!?
I have a lure model in resin that has highly detailed carvings and I need a stencil that is shaped like the lure to save time from A LOT of masking and to get a good end result but I don't have money enough to build a vacuum former right now so Shrinking tube was the only thing I could think of.
Or does someone here got any better ideas? I have thought of Jig skinz but I think they are a bit to thin.
/Pickadoll baits.
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Sorry, I forgot to answer you BobP haha but it's never too late ;)!
I have made a couple of prototypes. Ballast had effect on my models but I think that lip position and line tie position was the most important to get right. I will add some pictures of the lures when they are done.
Thanks! -
I have used Feather lite a lot and I have also made something around 20 baits with my new plastic Alumilite Rc-3 and micro ballons.
Feather lite lures is easy to weight. You just attach the lead weights on the through wire. But it is a slow cured plastic and you need to stir it pretty much before using it every time and is a bit messy to work with. And it doesnt become so hard as at least I want when its cured.
Alumilite with ballons is more complicated but when you figured out the right mixture for the lure it is pretty good. Cures in like 10 minutes and gets much harder than feather lite. So you can cast many times as many lures a day with this compared with FL.
A friend of mine have tried another plastic that he say is better than both of the other. It is Smooth on Smooth cast 300 combined with Alumilites micro ballons. It is pretty much like working with Alumilite plastic but the mold will last longer without tearing apart.
With plastic combined with ballons you can do as you say to pour plastic in the belly and with micro ballons on top. Some lures will swim great using that method without any weights inside.
Dont know if this helped you anything haha.
/David
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Hi everyone! I have made lures for about 4 years now. Mainly Jerkbait gliders and Tailbaits for pikefishing but I never made any crankbait/wobblers. I want to learn how to make Crankbaits now cause I like trolling for pike :)!
Here is my questions:
How do I know how thick the radius of the lip should be compared to how thick the wood of the lure is?
How do I know how near the front/head of the lure I should attach the lip?
How long should the lip be?
How sensitive is a crankbait for different weight positions?
Is there some kind of formula for these moments as a starting point for a newbie or is it just trial and error (as usual) :)?
You can see the lures I've done before at Instagram: pickadollbaits
Thanks!
/David -
You router before you put the hook hangers there so it is no problem
. Just use a test piece of wood to see that you don't route to deep. -
Wood fillers and other fillers, epoxy, 2 part epoxy putty and work with it with water on your hands. Or you can use wood plugs.
Easiest way is to weight the lures before you router/sand the edges of the lures.
Drill the weight holes. Don't drill deeper than you need so you don't need to glue the weights in place.
Put the weights in the holes. Then use something I wrote before to fill the rest of the holes.
And then you just use a belt sander or something like that til you get a smooth surface. And then you router/sand the edges round. It is much harder to get a smooth and fine surface if you weight the lure after you rounded the edges.
Hope you understand my English. I am from Sweden.
Hope you liked any of my tips.
/David Pickadoll lures
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I have tried a couple of methods in making 3D eyes. My favorite method is photographing real fish eyes. Edit them in photoshop a bit. Print them out, cut them out and then use a doming gun to put clear bubble free resin over them. If you are going to make a silicone mold you can just mold teddy bear eyes, wood plugs or 3D eyes you have bought in the store. but it is really hard to get bubble free casts in molds. You will need a vacuum chamber to get a 100% result.
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Cheers pickadol, I will try and sort something out tomorrow.
Thanks man! I am currently using tapes from Witchcraft tapes and they are pretty hard to work with and I need three layers of Epoxy to get a super smooth finish to paint on
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Thanks for posting! How does it work and where do I get it? Can you make a little tutorial maybe
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You guys should try Wolfcreek Lure Epoxy. It is much better than Envirotex lite. Less harmful for your health, easier to get rid of bubbles and better UV protection.
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You can also try Alclad 2 chrome paint or C1 Metallizer powder. Both gives a really high quality chrome effect if the work under the chrome is good.
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I always paint directly on the foil on the sides. Then I clear coat the lure once or twice so the back and belly gets smooth before I start to paint those parts.
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He once said that CAB is much more easy to paint with compared to water based paints.
He is mainly using Envirotex epoxy to clear coat his lures. -
Yes that is the right address. Good luck with reading that language
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In Sweden you can buy all their different kinds of clear coats but not their colors YET, but CAB is going to expand their company. That is at least what I've heard. -
I am from Sweden. That is not like a bad word over here but I do understand what you mean and will respect what you said.
Hard plastic resin and Micro ballons
in Hard Baits
Posted
Hello everyone!
When I have built resin baits in the past I have been mostly using Smooth on Feather lite but I have recently started to play more with mixing the ballons into the resin by my self. I am using Alumilite RC-3 and Alumilite Micro ballons.
Do you guys have any tip on how to figure out the right amount fast? Resin is exspensive :D! I always seems to mix too much so I need to throw away a lot of resin OR to little.
I want the density o the resin to be something like Beech wood, something around 0,70 - 0,80.
I also think I prefer to do it by weight and not by volume like everyone seems to do on Youtube wich cant be that accurate?
Thanks.
/David