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muskiestalker51

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About muskiestalker51

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  1. Thanks Blade for the search.. The 1 on eBay the lip appears a diff angle I think. 25 bucks for a blank I'm not quite sure is worth it. I'm hoping someone on here might have attempted building one or has. I think I might be able to get close but I'll be using bass wood.
  2. I believe the lure body is 3 3/4. Not sure the length of the lip or if there's any weight to the body. Any ideas would be helpful.
  3. I believe this is a Bagley BD 04 does anyone know if this is available in unpainted lures or have a template
  4. I am getting ready to test a couple lures an am thinking I could use the GST sealer before painting. Will water base paints be ok to use once I've used the GST since it is lacquer?
  5. Lol I forgot to mention that I'm using aztec or pvc deck board for the lure body. I haven't attempted it yet maybe there is away to fuse the pvc where the wire goes in the lure to give it a tight fit. I'm thinking maybe epoxy might fuse it really tight after I've done the tail wrap
  6. Sounds like that would be the ticket. The slot on the back of the bill would be good. Only problem with that method is I am having the wire go straight through the lure. The hole for the wire is drilled below the lip slot.
  7. I've been fooling around with the line tie on the lip, but I see most drill 2 holes and bend the wire through them and bend towards the bait. I have tried that method. What I'm looking for is just one wire with the line tie going through the bait. I notice the loop seems a little to loose bending sideways. Any ideas on how to keep it stiff. Not sure if expoxy will hold it tight. MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL.
  8. After reading about azek I stopped by lowes this morning and found a 16 foot piece for 1 buck cheapest thing I bought today.  I've read your post Why Pvc pretty much covers it all. Thank you Im along ways from finishing I'm just curious how the concrete sealer worked out for you. Will I get a smooth finish. Anyway thought I'd keep you posted.

    1. mark poulson

      mark poulson

      Muskie, 

      I've used concrete sealer in the past.  It works well as long as the finished bait isn't left in contact with any soft plastic.  I think the softener in the plastic affects the sealer over time.

      I solved this problem on some rats I made that had plastic worms for tails by coating the butt section around the screw lock connection with clear nail polish as a barrier.  When I finished fishing that rat, I would remove the plastic tail before I put the bait away.

      I keep my rods with soft plastics on one side of my deck, and rods with hard baits on the other, just to play safe.

      Good luck with the PVC.

  9. Mark I really like the thought of using the 1/4 lead wire. What or where is a good source to find that. Then I could use the eye screws. Is it called lead wire? I bet it would be alot easier to make adjustments with. I want to make sure I have to bait adjusted correctly before I attempt finishing it. Thanks e1 very informative
  10. I kind of got away from building seems like something always comes up. Good winter project between building lures and doing some mods to the boat and trailer
  11. Sounds good tally so drill the hole large enough for the weight to slide down into the bait. The devcon does it ooze out
  12. That’s what I’m asking do you guys glue the lead in the body. Expoxy should hold you think
  13. Yes I have a drill press. I already drilled the hole for the weight. What keeps the weight from pulling out it you get a snag or fish
  14. Hey Woodie how do you secure the weights from pulling out either from a fish or a snag

    1. woodieb8

      woodieb8

      we make the hook hangar. its wire bent in a u shape .insert in hole catching the thru wire. then pour lead up to yop of hole. the theUon each end is bent a touch out ward.it will never come apart.we put 350lbs pressure on a test..

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