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lbslures1

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  1. As others have replied to this concerning the oven temps are not all the same. I have owned a few and none of them are the same temps. Sounds like you may be overheating the heads but not a fact. I have had some containers of powder in a particular color turn out dull and the same color from another container come out glossy, go figure. Try the same color from two different batches of powder paint if available.
  2. I thought Pro-Tec was an epoxy which may be the same thing as polyster
  3. There are a lot of high temp rtv silicones out there that will work great and not that hard to work with. Some of the putty type work well but you will have to be pretty quick when working with them. The liquid types are best all around but they take time to cure, like two days to make a two part mold. I have made many using the red colored liquid high temp silicone but the place I have always gotten it has discontinued that product. If you go to a putty type, you will need to refrigerate it for a few hours first and this will give you some extra time to work with it. As far as the modeling clay, I think you have gotten the answer already. The clay would have to be heated before you poured lead into it and that would end that right off. Even if you did not preheat the clay, the moisture in the clay would probably cause an explosion when the lead was poured into it, it would burn you and destroy the mold. Go on internet search and search for hight temp rtv silicone material
  4. I have a large piece of that same netting that I would give to you at no charge if I knew how to get it to you. I got it thinking I could use it in some form of painting scales but could not.
  5. If Dupont is in China, so be it since there is where the silicone material comes from and furthermore who cares one way or the other
  6. Rat Trap has a hole-in-one skirt that is assembled in China or somewhere and they do a good job. He did not want to go in that direction for sure but competition forced him that way and those little girls over there can do wonders with putting the skirts together. As far as his regular banded skirts and his skirt layers go, they are all made in house at his store in Florida not Vietnam. The hole-in-one skirt is his only imported skirt and he send them his USA made skirt layers, bands and etc. to assemble them. So whoever said his stuff is all from Vietnam do not know what they are talking about. Rat Trap only produces quality products you can count on that even though he does not have a high class web site which why would he need that in the first place. He can fix anyone up with whatever they need.
  7. I know that most of us use or have used Do-It molds to make our lures and as of the last few years getting the molds to pour a complete lure has become a problem in some of the molds. I have worked with the molds by using dremel tools on many of them and nothing I tried ever helped at all other than mess the molds up. I have made many molds with RTV silicone which some were good and some not so good but one of the suggestions from the RTV people was to put talc powder in the mold cavities prior to pouring shaking out the excess then it dawned on me to try the same thing on all my aluminum molds that were giving me a problem and it worked great. Simply heat your mold as a standard procedure then open the mold then put a fair amount of talc powder into each cavity of the mold then close the mold and shake it around a bit then dump out the excess talc powder then add your hooks and etc to the mold and pour the lead. In some molds you will have to add the powder before every pour and at other times you can add powder about every 3 pours. The talc has no effect that I have noticed when I paint the lures. Do not use conrnstarch, it will only burn, use only talc powder. I presume that the powder is so slick that it allows the lead to slide into the mold much easier. It works every time.
  8. Ditto on Bubba Robinson, best guy and has best skirt stuff on the planet
  9. Hagen's in South Dakota has the netting and is cheap
  10. The more I looked at your photos maybe my first reply is not the problem but it appears you are breaking the sprues off instead of cutting them off with gate cutters. I would try cutting them off with some good gate cutters plus slow down on my pouring speed. There is almost always a cavity inside the poured head and it appears to be at the point where you are breaking the sprue from the head. I have never had much luck breaking sprues off, some molds are not a problem but some are
  11. I have a pic that I just made of one of those jigs without a weedguard. If you need something better, just let me know
  12. This mold is almost impossible to pour a complete head, don't know why, try putting talc powder in the mold cavities before you pour the lead and shake out excess talc and you will be amazed.
  13. The cavities in the jig heads are a natural thing that happens when pouring lead or most any metal into a mold, in fact there is a unseen cavity inside the head practically in every head poured this way. The best solution to the problem is to slow down as much as possible when pouring. If you are using a bottom pouring spout, reduce the flow as much as possible or if you are hand pouring do the same. My guess is that what you are doing is pouring much too fast with a bottom pour spout. I once worked in an aluminum casting plant pouring 2000 lb ingots and every ingot we poured had a cavity either inside or on the outside. They eliminate the cavities by using Direct Casting or DC casting. Slow down when pouring and see if this solves or helps your problem.
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